So I've got 5000 miles on my 2010 Street Glide, and it seems to need some adjustment in the clutch. Actually, the clutch itself seems to work fine (no slip, locks-up just fine). It engages as soon as the lever leaves the grip... I guess thats ok huh? I never really paid attention to where it was engaging in the lever throw until now. The problem seems to be at the lever itself... having excessive slack in it once the clutch has locked-up, which would seem to me that indicates a basic "cable adjustment" (are the cables even adjustable on these bikes)? I haven't studied the cable, or the shop manual on it yet. Just figured I'd get some good info here first.

My other question is on converting my 2010 FLHX to a hydraulic clutch. I really like the hydraulic clutch on my Hayabusa. The SG isn't bad for a cable clutch, but it seems it would be worth it to me not to worry about adjusting and maintaining a clutch cable.

I've run a search on the topic here. Found one good thread. But most of those conversions were on older bikes (04,05,06's). Most of them all ran into problems with the "clutch switch". The bike starting in neutral only (with or without the clutch in), loosing the 6th gear indicator, and the "key light" indicator staying on full time.

Has anyone put a hydraulic clutch on their 09 or newer Touring Model? Is there an all inclusive H-D kit for the conversion? Or is a "peice-meal" deal? If so... costs? Parts list? Are there still issues with the electrical aspect of converting? Whats your impressions with the hydraulic clutch?.

Thanks!

 

I wouldn't have a hydraulic clutch, but that's just me. It does sound like yours just has a little slack in the cable. Here's how you do the whole clutch adjustment. It's about a 10 minute job:


First, the bike must be cool when you do the clutch adjustment.

1) Slide the rubber boot off the adjustment nut assembly, in the clutch cable. Use a ½” and 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut back, then induce the maximum amount of slack.

2) Remove the clutch inspection cover, loosening the screws in a “star” pattern. Use a sharpee pen, and mark the inside of the cover, to indicate which hole is the one that was on top. Always install the cover so that that hole is the top.

5) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing.

6) Using an allen wrench, loosen (counter-clockwise) the clutch adjuster screw, which is inside the 11/16” nut you just loosened.

7) This is the critical step. Gripping the shaft of your allen wrench with just your thumb and index finger turn it back (Clockwise) just until the point that you feel the least resistance. NO MORE!

8) From that point, loosen it back (Counter-clockwise) ½ turn to one full turn. If you use the clutch to control the motor at low speeds, you should use ¾ turn. ½ turn is for “normal riders”, who use the clutch like an on/off switch. 1 turn is appropriate for a police bike in city traffic service.

9) Holding the allen wrench, so the screw stays in position, tighten the clutch adjustment nut. There is a torque value, but unless you have a crow’s foot, you can only tighten it so that it’s snug. If you are using an open-end wrench, take care not to let it slip off the nut, since you will be at an angle to the nut. If you do have a crow’s foot, it calls for 8 to 10 ft.lbs.

10) Replace the cover, making sure the “O” ring is good. Tighten the screws in a star pattern, to 50-70 inch pounds of torque.

11) Tighten the cable at the jam nut assembly. Once it is roughly tightened, pull the clutch lever three times to seat the ball and ramp in the mechanism. Then tighten to the point that there is about 1/16” of free play at the lever. If you pull the cable housing out from the lever, the edge of a nickel should just fit between the shoulder of the cable, and the bracket.

Harris
Denver, CO

www.youtube.com/conedown

 

Motorlessons,
Thanks for the "lesson" on clutch adjustment, I'll run that down on the bike tomorrow.

Now... what about that hydraulic clutch? Anybody?

 

I was considering a hydraulic clutch on my '09 Ultra Classic. I like the symmetric look. I talked with a most experience tech at my dealer and he said it could be done but expensive. The only setup I would have is like the one you see on Screamin' Eagles.

There are parts in the clutch linkage that would have to be changes.

 

This will not fit your newer bike, but it does my older '05. Likely there is a similar setup for yours. Check this out on eBay. $239 is not bad in the scope of Harley mods....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=230435068592

 

I changed my '07 to a hydraulic clutch a year & a half ago. The pull seemed a little easier, but the engagement is a lot smoother. Until I test rode a 2011 RG Ultra about a week ago! Either that bike had a really dry cable, or my hydraulic is a lot better than I had realized. My hydraulic pulls easier & engages a lot smoother!

Changing to hydraulic isn't difficult, but can be a little expensive. There are usually a lot of kits for the five speed transmission on ebay. The problem is that the transmission end cover that contains the slave cylinder is larger for the six speed, & the push rod is longer. I had to find those two parts elsewhere. Other than that the kits work. Part of the expense will be that if you purchase a new kit from Harley the clutch perch is chrome, & you'll have to spend more money to match the brake side to the chrome.

The switch isn't a big issue. I'm including a parts list, & the switch is easy to change. It cures all the issues caused by the stock switch, but even those aren't much of a problem. I rode mine with the stock switch for most of the first year before I got around to changing it.

Part List

37137-07 TRANSMISSION SIDE COVER, CHROME
38881-08A CLUTCHLINE ASY,BRD'D
36819-07 PUSHROD, HYDRAULIC CLUTCH
36731-91 CLUTCH RELEASE PLATE ASSY
38744-09 MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMLY, POLISHED LEVER
71699-07 LOCKOUT SWITCH

PM me if you need more information.

 

Had a cable clutch on my 09 Ultra but a hyd clutch on my 2010. If it were up to me, I'd still have a cable clutch. Adjusting it is really no big deal or hard thing. The pull on the hyd clutch IS harder then the cable. In stop and go traffic, is tough.

 

I heard that from a lot of shops while I was looking for the parts to do mine. Once I got it installed I found that the hydraulic was as easy or easier than the cable. If you're dissatisfied you should try to find the cause for the extra stiffness. Or, if you can't remedy it, you could probably come out ahead on a trade with someone that wants hydraulic for their cable. There's not much to the change.

 

Jinks,
Thanks for the parts list. On one of the other posts I read, one guy used the SE V-Rod clutch master cyclinder because it was black, not chrome. I'm going to want to keep mine black, so that is one solution to that issue.

 

Probably the same parts list. That's where I got the part number for the switch. If you can find a 5 speed kit online the only things you need different are the transmission end cover, the push rod, & the switch. I went that way since I wanted the black perches too.

BTW, my wife gave me a chrome brake master cylinder cover before I started the clutch change. After a little tinkerin' I found that the same chrome cover fits the clutch master cylinder if you swap the seals. Mine are now black master cylinders & perches with chrome covers.

You might also check some local aftermarket shops. I found a 5 speed kit for a friend about a month ago. Price was pretty reasonable.