I guess I should clarify. By tuner, I don't mean a person to tune the bike. I mean a tuning device that will allow adjusting fuel flow,injector duration and timing for specific rpm ranges and throttle positions. TTS, SEST, Power Commanders all allow you to see feedback on your laptop and that will allow even a home tuner to make some good adjustments. Granted a professional tuner with a dyno is going to get it done quicker and more optimal (if he's any good), but you can get it pretty darned rideable on your own with basic understanding of the Harley motor, injection system, the tuner and your laptop. Cams are a nice upgrade but you can make that bike a lot more efficient with a proper tuning. Changing the cams will be expensive unless you do it yourself (even then not cheap) and then you will still definitely need the tuning device and a serious tuning session. IMO Get the tuning device and tune the bike or pay to have it tuned if need be and then if you aren't happy with it save up the bucks and add the cams or big bore kit. It didn't sound to me like you're displeased with the overall power of the bike as much as you are interested in optimizing it for maximizing what you have available in the proper areas of rideability.

 

That’s a good point the ecm is out of tune with the rest of the bike. I have ran a sert , pc3, and thunder max they all were good but each one had a draw back. I had these things in when I had the stock pipes on. Now I just run stage one download and air and exhaust. The Harley super tuner is probably the one I would get, and then I can still use all of the bikes sensors. But I don’t want to spend $350. For a few extra hp’s

 

My 2009 EG Classic could run all the day long at 105 km/h (65 mi/h) at 2500 RPM in 6th

 

What cam he has is irrelevant. The question is lugging at 3k RPM. The cam will make a difference at how much power he has at 3K, it has no affect on the distress the bottom end is going through for any particular load.

 

Ditto, just downshift and problem solved.

 

Gotta agree with that condensed version. 3K going uphill, loaded is a textbook example of a time to downshift and enjoy the ride.

 

I don’t think we can really know.

Lugging is when the engine doesn’t have enough time to exit all the pressure in the cylinder during a single stroke. When more fuel is added than can be exited, cylinder pressure builds and can reach high enough pressure to damage the cranks and crank bearings. Two factors are needed to cause lugging: too much fuel and not enough RPMs. Increasing the RPMs (down shift) opens the exhaust values for a longer duration to let the high pressure gases out of the cylinder.

However, the problem also could be that the Fuel Management System just won’t provide enough fuel to create the horse power required for the designed load at that RPM. That is a situation for a stage I or II upgrade.

I’m not sure the easiest way to determine which situation is the cause, so I guess down shifting is the best fix until HP can be increased.

Beary

 

Seems to me that the worst case scenario would be in top gear. IF you can MAINTAIN 3000 rpm in top gear, you aren't lugging it. You would be going damned fast up hill though, lol.

 

Bwahaha! "Hold on to your hat......!"

 

I have to say after reading the threads and owned a few Harleys that 3000 is right in the RPM range on just bout any cam. Now my 95 FLHTC loved to pull all the way to 7 until I blew the trans, but on my stock SG its pullin hard at 3 and falls just over 45 grand right on its face. Gotta be in the tuning or some bad gas to seem like its fallin on its face. Might be a hell of a hill too.