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Can you lug a bike with the rpms at 3000?

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  #21  
Old 09-17-2010, 09:59 PM
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Was it pinking at 3000, could be lugging.
 
  #22  
Old 09-17-2010, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kruzin
Will not hurt the engine a bit. As long as you have some rpms up and the engine has reached it peak hp, it’s the same as running it on a dyno. I work in the AG Industry where farm engines run at peak power at 1800 rpms all day long. It doesn’t hurt them, accelerate wear or anything else. That is what they are made to do.
Rev limiters on most Diesels are at (or near) 2000 rpm.
Your "all day" scenario is near rev limit, on a torque motor meant to move massive loads.

Put that same motor at lower rpm in a "too high" gear and see what happens.


Edit: In contrast, the HD motors have itty bitty bushings with press fit cranks with a fraction of the torque capabilities.
They are not designed to pull huge loads.





.
 

Last edited by Faast Ed; 09-17-2010 at 10:42 PM.
  #23  
Old 09-17-2010, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ubreal
I was on a long ride the last three days. And a lot of the interstate was very long, straight and hilly no turns. Speed limit was 65 mph. I had my bike in 5th going 65mpn. The rpms were at 2800-3000 with the cruse control on. Going straight and down hill was no problem but when the bike would go up hill I could hear the engine struggling to stay at 2800-3000 rpms it would do it and the rpms would not drop below 2800, but I am wondering if this is bad for my engine. I also had my wife on the bike and luggage.
The HD manual for the 2007 model specs 91 FT/LB at 3000 RPM. So you were operating in the optimum rpm range. As stated in another post-it was the cruise control trying to keep up that made the engine seem to struggle. In my experience EFI has quite a bit of lag response. Especailly with the cable controlled bikes. What I do when approaching a sizable hill is turn the "curse control" off and roll on the throttle manually before I even get to the hill. In 5th gear it will pull @ 2800-3000 all day long.
 
  #24  
Old 09-18-2010, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by OLD 96
The HD manual for the 2007 model specs 91 FT/LB at 3000 RPM. So you were operating in the optimum rpm range. As stated in another post-it was the cruise control trying to keep up that made the engine seem to struggle. In my experience EFI has quite a bit of lag response. Especailly with the cable controlled bikes. What I do when approaching a sizable hill is turn the "curse control" off and roll on the throttle manually before I even get to the hill. In 5th gear it will pull @ 2800-3000 all day long.

This might actually make sense if it were definitively known as to whether or not 91 ft lbs of torque was adequate to shift the amount of weight up the unknown incline. It is one thing to be in the optimum range, it is quite another for the available power to be deemed adequate.
 
  #25  
Old 09-18-2010, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ubreal
Well all I can say is she is bigger than when I first marred her. Let’s just say under 145. I just wanted to cruse and not have to shift. The hills were not very step I try to listen to the engine but the wind drowns the sound of the engine. Highway 395 calif. From Mojave to Topaz Lake it is a long straight high desert highway. The I can fell the engine purring when the road is flat but when I go up hill I fell the engine working harder to maintain the speed. I gust my question is how hard can you push the engine at around 3000 rpms before you screw something up? Will the engine start to buck and stumble?
The road from Mojave is not exactly as you describe. You made climbs to a bit over 7500 feet (Devils Gate just north of Bridgeport) and others. Loaded and 2 up your motor probably is struggling a bit at 3000 in 5th. I doubt that your hurting anything tho.
 
  #26  
Old 09-18-2010, 08:18 AM
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Any time I roll on the throttle and the bike doesn't speed up, I downshift.
 
  #27  
Old 09-18-2010, 09:22 AM
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I did not read thru the entire post but depends on cams. If you have a cam that does not come on until way up the rpm range it is possible.
 
  #28  
Old 09-18-2010, 09:25 AM
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Lugging a motor and running out of power are two different things.
You are not lugging at 3,000. You are running out of power. Do a cam upgrade and you will not believe the difference.
 
  #29  
Old 09-18-2010, 10:03 AM
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This from your sig:
07 Road King
SE/AC
stage 1 down load
O2 IED
Cobra Speedster Xtra Longs

Personally, I see this as your main problem. You have totally changed the exhaust flow from stock on this motor and did nothing but add an O2 IED. I have used the xied's on more than one bike and they do work quite well with a change to slip-ons and better flowing air filter. But in the case of your mufflers you have totally change the way exhaust exits from the motor and I do not believe that just tossing more fuel at it is the answer. In my experience with different true duals, 2-1 headpipes, and various slip-ons, SERTs, SESTs,PCs, your bike will need a tuner to get the optimum torque band back where it belongs. I would suspect that you are not getting near the full potential of torque @2800-3000 rpm with that setup.

By the way: A stage one download basicly doesn't do s**t as far as tuning. It is a canned map that again, may toss a bit more fuel here and there but has no idea what it specifically does for a particular exhaust intake combination.
 

Last edited by Moonrunner; 09-18-2010 at 10:07 AM. Reason: add data
  #30  
Old 09-18-2010, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Moonrunner
This from your sig:
07 Road King
SE/AC
stage 1 down load
O2 IED
Cobra Speedster Xtra Longs

Personally, I see this as your main problem. You have totally changed the exhaust flow from stock on this motor and did nothing but add an O2 IED. I have used the xied's on more than one bike and they do work quite well with a change to slip-ons and better flowing air filter. But in the case of your mufflers you have totally change the way exhaust exits from the motor and I do not believe that just tossing more fuel at it is the answer. In my experience with different true duals, 2-1 headpipes, and various slip-ons, SERTs, SESTs,PCs, your bike will need a tuner to get the optimum torque band back where it belongs. I would suspect that you are not getting near the full potential of torque @2800-3000 rpm with that setup.

By the way: A stage one download basicly doesn't do s**t as far as tuning. It is a canned map that again, may toss a bit more fuel here and there but has no idea what it specifically does for a particular exhaust intake combination.
Timing changes are often needed as well.
 


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