VERY interesting PC-V map test! Long, but worth it.
#31
I'm glad to see that this thread has been updated. My curiousity has been piqued and now I have a question. First, for those that have tweaked their timing tables....what octane (and brand) of gasoline are you running?? And for Jamie, do you tune with 91 octane, 93 octane, or ??? Just curious because I always try to run 93 (Mobil), when available, and am wondering if anything is being left on the table if your tuning is done with 91 octane. I realize that you have to provide a 'cushion' with your tunes to compensate for the occasional tank of crap gas we all eventually run across, but how much of a cushion are we talking about ?
__________________
Jamie Long / Fuel Moto USA
The USA's Leader V-Twin EFI & Performance www.fuelmotousa.com
Contact 920-423-3309
Email jamie@fuelmotousa.com
Jamie Long / Fuel Moto USA
The USA's Leader V-Twin EFI & Performance www.fuelmotousa.com
Contact 920-423-3309
Email jamie@fuelmotousa.com
#33
Is it at all possible there is more wrong with your bike than the PCV?
Seems with all Fuel Moto has been trying to do for your bike then either you're doing something wrong or there is something else wrong with the bike. Either that or it's beginning to sound like you're the customer that's never happy.
#34
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Jamie, you make yourself sound real good hear on the forum, but the truth is I have called you and spoke with you personally. Every time, starting with the very first time I talked with you the very first words out of your mouth were "there has to be something wrong with your bike", you never even tried to fix the problem, you were trying to get out of taking any responsibility by blaming the bike. What you said about the XiEDs is true, they went bad, but the bike ran fine before them and after them. I got the PCV and Auto Tune (from you) not to make the bike run properly but for a performance upgrade. The bike did not start to run bad until I installed the PCV. I have taken the PCV off and it ran fine, but it had no power. I have done a lot of things to make it run right, like the dyno, unfortunately they took a canned map and set it to 13.8.1 AFR across the board and that is all they did, which did not fix the map problem. Some of the things I have done have made the bike run better, some only seemed to until I put enough miles on the bike to find out differently. You say you want me to call you and talk to you personally. Why? So you can blame the bike again and get me off the phone like you did before? I do not want to hear you blame the bike again, if anything I have had bad maps or a bad PCV that is obvious, since the problems go away when I take the PCV off. So stop blaming the bike. Also, I am not a mechanic or a PCV expert so I have to learn everything by trial and error which is still an ongoing process. However I do know how to install a map, the problem is not me so don’t blame me either.
I made a simple comment about what I have been going through and you jumped in with the need to defend yourself as if I were attacking you which was not my intention, and turned this into an argument. We need to stop that now. I have told you before; I am not on here to blame you or to argue with you, I am here to share my experiences and to get help and maybe help others. Everything is as it is, just let it be. If you have useful advice like what else in the PCV may make the bike run poorly after it gets hot, then give it, I would really appreciate expert help, but please stop the squabbling, no more pointing fingers. And that goes for anyone else on the forum who wants to start casting blame. Let go of that crap and focus on fixing problems.
After having said all that, I used the ignition numbers from your earlier post, but have not had the chance to ride much so I don’t know yet what the outcome is, and it is getting cold fast with snow expected in the next couple of days so I may not get the chance until spring.
Jamie, you make yourself sound real good hear on the forum, but the truth is I have called you and spoke with you personally. Every time, starting with the very first time I talked with you the very first words out of your mouth were "there has to be something wrong with your bike", you never even tried to fix the problem, you were trying to get out of taking any responsibility by blaming the bike. What you said about the XiEDs is true, they went bad, but the bike ran fine before them and after them. I got the PCV and Auto Tune (from you) not to make the bike run properly but for a performance upgrade. The bike did not start to run bad until I installed the PCV. I have taken the PCV off and it ran fine, but it had no power. I have done a lot of things to make it run right, like the dyno, unfortunately they took a canned map and set it to 13.8.1 AFR across the board and that is all they did, which did not fix the map problem. Some of the things I have done have made the bike run better, some only seemed to until I put enough miles on the bike to find out differently. You say you want me to call you and talk to you personally. Why? So you can blame the bike again and get me off the phone like you did before? I do not want to hear you blame the bike again, if anything I have had bad maps or a bad PCV that is obvious, since the problems go away when I take the PCV off. So stop blaming the bike. Also, I am not a mechanic or a PCV expert so I have to learn everything by trial and error which is still an ongoing process. However I do know how to install a map, the problem is not me so don’t blame me either.
I made a simple comment about what I have been going through and you jumped in with the need to defend yourself as if I were attacking you which was not my intention, and turned this into an argument. We need to stop that now. I have told you before; I am not on here to blame you or to argue with you, I am here to share my experiences and to get help and maybe help others. Everything is as it is, just let it be. If you have useful advice like what else in the PCV may make the bike run poorly after it gets hot, then give it, I would really appreciate expert help, but please stop the squabbling, no more pointing fingers. And that goes for anyone else on the forum who wants to start casting blame. Let go of that crap and focus on fixing problems.
After having said all that, I used the ignition numbers from your earlier post, but have not had the chance to ride much so I don’t know yet what the outcome is, and it is getting cold fast with snow expected in the next couple of days so I may not get the chance until spring.
#36
To be honest -3 in the timing table is not uncommon. For example, there are far more than 3 degrees of timing between the timing tables on different years, models and calibrations. As far as the knock strategy, trust me IT DOES pull timing well before you can hear it. This is simply a fact and you can see in black and white if datalog it either on the dyno or on the road. The amount of timing it pulls back all depends on what is written in the OEM calibration. This is how we set the timing in our maps when we are developing them. If you are hearing a knock event you generally need to remove 2-4 degrees, and if you are getting pinging when you blip the throttle or under quick accelleration you have too much advance.
Again, you are welcome to contact me and I would be happy to help you optimize your timing/fuel tables and get your bike running awesome. I would really like to hear from you so I can help.
Again, you are welcome to contact me and I would be happy to help you optimize your timing/fuel tables and get your bike running awesome. I would really like to hear from you so I can help.
For iClick first, you say "Actually, the ion-discharge knock-sensing feature of the ECM can detect incipient knock before it is audible. That's why I set my ignition advance 2° below the point where I can hear detonation. IOW, mine pings at 5° at roll-on, so I have it set at 3° even though I hear nothing at 4°." If the sensors "can detect" incipient knock and have the ability to pull the timing, than why are you hearing at 5 degrees and dropping it below 4 even if you can't hear it? Obviously the sensor has it's limitations. You contradict yourself a bit, though I understand what you're trying to say. The real world simply doesn't play that nice & tidy.
Jamie, you mention "As far as the knock strategy, trust me IT DOES pull timing well before you can hear it". Than why do I hear it? Is the system just too slow, or unable to pull the timing quick enough, or pull enough of it out? FWIW, the ping is actually a quick one-time "tick", not the typical lengthy rattling we might have heard years back. Perhaps that's the result of the sensor pulling 'almost' enough timing out, but not quite enough.
And, respectfully, the issue of the 3 degrees; "To be honest -3 in the timing table is not uncommon. For example, there are far more than 3 degrees of timing between the timing tables on different years, models and calibrations." In a broad general sense, that is completely understandable. However, with my two bikes being the same year, same brand, same model, same headers, same cams, same heads, same air cleaner, and virtually the same engine, etc., the differences are so minor as to negate the need to have that drastic of a difference in timing between the two. My 103 vs. my 96 is literally the exact same engine except for jugs/pistons. The cams, heads, intake, etc., are all the very same part number. Anybody can look it up in the Parts Manual, I have, they're the same. One can safely say they're pretty much the exact same engine. Most importantly, the maps were "as delivered", I never touched the timing. Last year when you had no maps available for the Police 103, I received a best-guess map that was supposed to get me close enough for the AutoTune to get me the rest of the way based on your experience. We're all human, it's not the end of the world, the 103 map was simply not even remotely close to what the bike should have had. That meant less to me than the time and money I spent on other items trying to make the bike run right when all I needed was a better map, only to learn a far better map was already in my other bike. Good thing I didn't take the bike out of commission to send the PC-V back as the issue was not with the PC-V, only the map.
#37
For iClick first, you say "Actually, the ion-discharge knock-sensing feature of the ECM can detect incipient knock before it is audible. That's why I set my ignition advance 2° below the point where I can hear detonation. IOW, mine pings at 5° at roll-on, so I have it set at 3° even though I hear nothing at 4°." If the sensors "can detect" incipient knock and have the ability to pull the timing, than why are you hearing at 5 degrees and dropping it below 4 even if you can't hear it? Obviously the sensor has it's limitations. You contradict yourself a bit, though I understand what you're trying to say. The real world simply doesn't play that nice & tidy.
Jamie, you mention "As far as the knock strategy, trust me IT DOES pull timing well before you can hear it". Than why do I hear it? Is the system just too slow, or unable to pull the timing quick enough, or pull enough of it out? FWIW, the ping is actually a quick one-time "tick", not the typical lengthy rattling we might have heard years back. Perhaps that's the result of the sensor pulling 'almost' enough timing out, but not quite enough.
And, respectfully, the issue of the 3 degrees; "To be honest -3 in the timing table is not uncommon. For example, there are far more than 3 degrees of timing between the timing tables on different years, models and calibrations." In a broad general sense, that is completely understandable. However, with my two bikes being the same year, same brand, same model, same headers, same cams, same heads, same air cleaner, and virtually the same engine, etc., the differences are so minor as to negate the need to have that drastic of a difference in timing between the two. My 103 vs. my 96 is literally the exact same engine except for jugs/pistons. The cams, heads, intake, etc., are all the very same part number. Anybody can look it up in the Parts Manual, I have, they're the same. One can safely say they're pretty much the exact same engine. Most importantly, the maps were "as delivered", I never touched the timing. Last year when you had no maps available for the Police 103, I received a best-guess map that was supposed to get me close enough for the AutoTune to get me the rest of the way based on your experience. We're all human, it's not the end of the world, the 103 map was simply not even remotely close to what the bike should have had. That meant less to me than the time and money I spent on other items trying to make the bike run right when all I needed was a better map, only to learn a far better map was already in my other bike. Good thing I didn't take the bike out of commission to send the PC-V back as the issue was not with the PC-V, only the map.
Jamie, you mention "As far as the knock strategy, trust me IT DOES pull timing well before you can hear it". Than why do I hear it? Is the system just too slow, or unable to pull the timing quick enough, or pull enough of it out? FWIW, the ping is actually a quick one-time "tick", not the typical lengthy rattling we might have heard years back. Perhaps that's the result of the sensor pulling 'almost' enough timing out, but not quite enough.
And, respectfully, the issue of the 3 degrees; "To be honest -3 in the timing table is not uncommon. For example, there are far more than 3 degrees of timing between the timing tables on different years, models and calibrations." In a broad general sense, that is completely understandable. However, with my two bikes being the same year, same brand, same model, same headers, same cams, same heads, same air cleaner, and virtually the same engine, etc., the differences are so minor as to negate the need to have that drastic of a difference in timing between the two. My 103 vs. my 96 is literally the exact same engine except for jugs/pistons. The cams, heads, intake, etc., are all the very same part number. Anybody can look it up in the Parts Manual, I have, they're the same. One can safely say they're pretty much the exact same engine. Most importantly, the maps were "as delivered", I never touched the timing. Last year when you had no maps available for the Police 103, I received a best-guess map that was supposed to get me close enough for the AutoTune to get me the rest of the way based on your experience. We're all human, it's not the end of the world, the 103 map was simply not even remotely close to what the bike should have had. That meant less to me than the time and money I spent on other items trying to make the bike run right when all I needed was a better map, only to learn a far better map was already in my other bike. Good thing I didn't take the bike out of commission to send the PC-V back as the issue was not with the PC-V, only the map.
Last edited by fuelmoto; 10-26-2010 at 11:27 PM.
#38
Da Butcher, please send me your current map exactly how you are running it at the moment with the timing you are getting the quick ping. I will take a look at the timing table and should be able to take care of it for you. You can email it to jamie@fuelmotousa.com PLEASE give me the opportunity to help you with this
Last edited by fuelmoto; 10-26-2010 at 11:32 PM.
#39
ignition 103"
I was reading your post on Ignition table. Was that for a 103" and 255 cams or for a 96"cu in motor
I'm finding -4 took away 98% of the pinging on my 09 ultra with 103"
very curious about making them +3 to see what happens but not if your engine is a 96" is their anyway you can send me your ignition table so I can actually see it. (if it is a 103") Please send to usmmdad@cfl.rr.com I would really appreciate it.
I'm finding -4 took away 98% of the pinging on my 09 ultra with 103"
very curious about making them +3 to see what happens but not if your engine is a 96" is their anyway you can send me your ignition table so I can actually see it. (if it is a 103") Please send to usmmdad@cfl.rr.com I would really appreciate it.
#40
For iClick first, you say "Actually, the ion-discharge knock-sensing feature of the ECM can detect incipient knock before it is audible. That's why I set my ignition advance 2° below the point where I can hear detonation. IOW, mine pings at 5° at roll-on, so I have it set at 3° even though I hear nothing at 4°." If the sensors "can detect" incipient knock and have the ability to pull the timing, than why are you hearing at 5 degrees and dropping it below 4 even if you can't hear it? Obviously the sensor has it's limitations. You contradict yourself a bit, though I understand what you're trying to say. The real world simply doesn't play that nice & tidy.