I love the 6th gear on my bagger, but as others have said, if you aren't doing at least 75mph, it's useless. I don't ever putz around in 6th gear doing 55-60mph...to me, that isn't using your transmission in a efficient manner...and yes, IMHO you are ******* the motor in 6th gear at that speed.

My average cruising speed on the freeway is 80mph, so my revs are about 3000rpms...pretty much right where I want them for my engine/cam setup. I don't have to downshift to pass, unless I'm in a big hurry, and want maximum performance out of my bike. It that's the case, i have no problem kicking her down a gear and cranking up the revs.

I'm getting ready to do a frame off restoration of my '93 FXR, and I'm dropping in a Baker OD 6 speed tranny when I do. In 5th gear at 80mph, I'm just under 4000rpms...not bad, but I'd rather cruise at that speed in the lower 3000s. The 6th gear fits my freeway cruising style perfectly. YMMV.

 

There you go, it is about how the motor accelerates, or more accurately doesn't accelerate that tells you if you are "lugging" it.

 

Read the manual, it's right on.

 

Thanks I will, I just wish I`d done so earlier. Then again that`s no guarantee I would have read that particular part unless they emblazen it so you can`t miss it. For instance, who reads their manual cover to cover? But I think I will in this bike`s case....regardless of how well I think I know bikes and other toys from owning and wrenching on so many (I usually buy a service manual for things, let alone an owner`s manual, but in this case I literally drove away on my 20,000 km trip from the guys yard).

 

Thanks I`ll go by that, since apparently judging by how it feels `steady state` or just barely accelerating was mis-leading since it can feel smooth while on flat ground unless you`re ridiculously low like under 2000 rpm when 2150 can do damage. A great explanation with an easy `test` I can perform in different conditions (i.e. head winds, loaded up to the teeth, uphill or downhill, different speeds etc.).

 

I love your blacked out bike.

I guess I thought 2150 was okay because I didn`t care about performance and rarely pass. And if I did pass I`d shift down if in a hurry. But with the overwhelming advice to use 5th until 120 kph, it would be ridiculous for me to do otherwise. Prior to this I`d had two dealer say two different things which led to confusion and ultimately a blown motor.

 

Thanks I`ll consider the V&H and maybe PM Dawg as well if I need to go this route on an `08. Hopefully the oil cooler and running 5th suffices though.

 

Yes I kind of thought a stock bike, even if its a heavy Electra Glide loaded down for bear (which they`re supposed to be designed for - hence the passenger seat/backrest/luggage!), you`d think the OEM would have calibrated properly from the factory so I don`t have blow an engine up before determining I need a programmer. I`ve never heard of someone needing a programmer to prevent engine failure, thinking they were only for improved performance. Ironically I didn`t modify for performance because I didn`t want engine problems, and here had I pumped it up and added a programmer my engine would be just fine now. Go figure.

Because the bike was used and well off warranty, though it is Harley`s fault and somewhat my fault since I`m the one that didn`t buy an owner`s manual that may have said somewhere that 6th is only for 120 kph + (not that 5th would have mattered since I tried that for some time and it still pinged, unless I needed to let it cool down and THEN run it in 5th or didn`t give it enough time in 5th), it is my problem and not Harley`s.

 

Great article that I`ll have to read fully. Skimming answered at least one question I had - why the DET sensor didn`t prevent my pinging. It`s because my pinging must have been from hot spots, which retarded timing won`t affect. It may sense the detonation and retard the timing, but it doesn`t stop the pinging. We sure can`t rely on that thing then! I was actually considering having my timing retarded as well as a permanently richer fuel map if there is such a thing, at the dealer, but it sounds like with Harley spark plugs the stock DET sensor should address the timing and I should concentrate on a fuel controller as you and others suggested. Even if I shouldn`t need to on a stock bike, it is what it is and no Harley sure won`t care what I do or fix it for me. In fact they`ll be quite happy to keep selling pistons and cylinders.

The article says its hard on rods too, but I`ll assume if the dealer felt the rod or anything else sustained damage, they would have ordered one up too.

 

Thanks for that!