I'm glad to hear you're pleased but even their website doesn't claim to produce better peak performance tuning results and I'm afraid that there's no standard for measuring the "smoothness" of a dyno tuning result. Anyone needing 8 hrs and a full tank of gas to tune a bike is a place I want to know about so I can avoid it.

There's nothing I've read that would suggest to me that using a "phase 4" tuning method is worth the trouble or the investment.

Slam me if you wish, but spending more $ than a typical AFR tuning so a shop can use a new technology that abuses my bike on a dyno for 8hrs seems absurd to me.

I'm sorry but this approach to tuning a v-twin sounds like a boondoggle with little evidence that the investment generates a better result than can be achieved by a qualified tech that uses the same technology that 99% of the other tuners use. I know you've got a vested interest given your investment in the technology but there hasn't been a single piece of data to suggest the result is any better. In fact all the data suggests running in the opposite direction.

Given that he burned a full tank of gas to go just 98 miles, I'd suggest there's alot of questions about your tune....fuel economy might be a good starting point.

 

They put rush mufflers and SE air cleaner then installed sert. They gave me the box(sert) but no cables to check

 

You're ignorance amuses me.

Thanks for the laughs.

Steve

 

WolfGang Grasser(Mutant Motors) in Baytown is the best around
713-473-8122

 

It's clear you know little about tuning your own bike. There's a reason that 99% of the motorcycle tuners don't need to measure more than AFR and there's a reason why all cars and boats measure AFR to determine if their fuel maps can benefit from tweaking for the performance oriented. I've tuned 2 of my own EFI Bikes and my 502ci EFI supercharged 650hp boat engine, so I think I know at least a thing or 2 about tuning EFI engines.

OTOH, I suspect the shop selling you a "phase 4" super-duper, who-needs-to-measure-O2-in-the-combustion-event, bike engine tune that doesn't even provide the customer with a final AFR reading, saw a "special" guy when he walked in the door looking for a "tooning"

BTW, how's that 98 miles to a tankful working out for ya? Now that's a special "tooning" if I ever saw one.

 

Did ya put that boat motor on an engine dyno or just spitball the 650 hp? I'd expect more than that from a blown 502. I think you shortchanged yourself.

Really? Seriously? I don't have a dog in this fight and really couldn't care less about what you do or don't know. But you have to be kidding that you don't realize that an actual tuning session on a dyno (by whatever method) uses a ton of fuel if it's done correctly.

One last thing... I do have a dyno sheet with an AFR line on it, but what does that tell me about how the bike is running at 20% throttle and 2800 rpm? Or 50% at 3500? I'd be interested to know what the fact that the "tuner" plugged the AFR at 13:1 (or whatever) at WOT tells me about the other 99% of the tune.

Wait, you aren't "Heatwave" A.K.A. "FaastEd" are you?

 

I have no idea who FastEd is.

Of course a dyno tuning uses a fair amount of fuel, more than normal operations. That being said, I don't think there's a tuner out there that could burn through 6 gallons of fuel in 98 miles. That's 16mpg and sheer nonsense.

True....that WOT AFR by itself tells you very little about about the rest of the fuel map's performance. However cells in an EFI fuel map feed to one another. 1 cell that results in a lean/rich burn can generally lead to a lean/rich burn in the next cell and so on. So while it's a generalization, if you have the proper amount of air/fuel mix at the peak rpm load on the motor, you're heading in the right direction and the rest of the map is likely to at least be in the "ballpark' if the cells have a reasonable progression to them.

If you observed as many Smarttune updates as I have (literally hundreds), you'd know that the auto tuning feature (SEPST) generally attempts to build "smooth", incremental VE values across (left to right) and down the map as the load and rpms increase. The final outcome of these increments leads to the final AFR at WOT but all the cells below WOT contributed to that final AFR. If the VE increments are "smooth" and "regular", combined with a final WOT AFR that is close to 13.2 AND the bike's throttle is responsive without lag, then I think you'll find that overall map is pretty darn good.

So yes, a bike with a responsive sharp throttle combined with a WOT AFR on target is a good sign that the overall map is a quality one.

For the record, my boat engine's #s are a combination of dyno and calculation. The 502 with headwork, isky cam, SS valves, Aeromotive marine racing fuel pump, larger injectors and larger fuel lines throughout was originally dynoed at 470hp. (The stock engine is 415hp.) The calculation on my Supercharger (with my current pulley setup) is generating about 8lbs of boost. Combined with the size intercooler I am running and the 8lbs and 93 octane, I should be boosting my 502 by about 170hp making a total of about 650hp (alright 640hp, but it's a boat so a little exaggeration is expected. It's worth noting that hp in a boat is an even less important measure of power than it is in motorcycling. There's only one measure that matters and that's torque since there's no gearing and the prop and outdrive gear ratio (1.5:1) have to do everything from getting a boat on plane from a standstill to WOT rips across the water. Torque baby...it's all about the Torque and that same blown 502 is calculated to be making about 650ft-lbs.

 

He has a 2005, so it's actually 5 gallons and just under 20 mpg....

I forget how much fuel my 6hrs of tune time used, but it was a majority of the tank. I do get anywhere from 38 to 45 depending on how fast I feel like riding (usually 38).

Lol. Good one. I've experienced the two happiest days in a boat owner's life first hand... I could barely keep a 300hp MasterCraft fed, much less a blown beast. Good luck with all that.

 

Mine's been supercharged for 7 years now with many hours on both the blower and motor. In fact the blower goes in to ProCharger this winter for a rebuild. I've never had a "lick of problems" with this motor which as you know is pretty rare for a boat engine (of course now it'll probably blow up on me this weekend). Since it's on a 28 ft bowrider, it get's lot's of duty pulling tubes (the kids love the way it jumps them out of the water).

Since the intercooler output is hidden under the swim platform, it's a stealth "family" boat that can "lock & load" and take on most other single engine 28' performance boats. Nothing quite like beating a high-performance "Miami-vice" type with only his girlfriend on-board with my "family" bow-rider and 10 people on-board. I can only imagine they must look at us as we pass them with towels flying and kid's waving "good-bye" with only one thought on their mind...."Damn honey...we just got blown away by the Beverly Hillbillies"

 

I have had my bike tuned on both type of dynos. In my opinion, it's the guy working the dyno that can make or break your tune.

With the right operator, a great tune can be had by either set up.