Originally Posted by 09ultraclassicrider

Thanks for the right up. Someone on here told me that while you were in there and you have the cash you might as well change out the the chain tensioner to the wedge style hydraulic tensioner from southern oregon hot bikes. There will be no clunk issues when starting (SE compensator) and no whining issues (wedge tensioner) with the chain because the HD unit has a tendency to ratchet up too tight and then it cannot come back down because of the ratcheting teeth, but the hydraulic one has no teeth so it constantly moves up and down. If memory serves correctly the tensionor was $100 ish.

Originally Posted by nemick

I have a 2009 Ultra and I have been struggling with the amount of noise my engine makes, cold or hot. After seeking some input here, I went ahead and purchased an SE compensator to see precisely what difference, if any, it would make. My main goal has been to reduce the perceived noise coming from the bottom end of my engine. My engine, hot or cold, usually sounded like it was a bag of bolts and ready to explode under aggressive acceleration. It was to a point where riding had become less than a joyful experience. Many have said that this rattling, clanging, banging and buzzing are normal and an integral part of the Harley mystique, but it was getting a bit too much for me.
I was able to purchase the SE compensator at my dealers Open House and get a 20% discount, so that was cool. I do my own wrenching and set about putting this thing in. Based upon measurements I found on thread here, I made my own sprocket locking tool and the only other unusual tool I needed was a 1 3/16th socket. I had a 30mm socket and this worked fine.
First off, let me state that the physical differences between the stock compensator and the SE version are massive. Just looking at them side by side, you would have a hard time imagining both of them doing the same job, let alone fitting in the same space. I followed the manual and everything came apart as expected until I tried to remove the stator housing. The diameter of the housing is too large to simply slide off the crank spline, as there is extra thickness to the inner primary case at this point. I was expecting this because of other posts here and I was also expecting to have to do some grinding. However, I loosened the 6 inner primary bolts by about 4 turns each and achieved enough slack and space to easily remove and replace the new stator housing without any grinding at all.
Everything fit perfectly and went back together with ease. It took me about 3 hours from start to finish.
I took the bike out for a ride and I would have to say that this 'upgrade' cured at least 80% of the problems I was having. I never really had much banging at start up and it wasn't this that concerned me. Starting now however, was quieter and smoother. Selecting gears has improved significantly, with reduced clatter. Riding around, the bottom end of the engine no longer sounds like its ready to fly apart. Acceleration and deceleration are much smoother and quieter too. I put about 200 miles on the new compensator and I am very pleased with the results. It still has the 'normal' top end tapping, but thats another project.
Everyone says it, but I mean it when I say that the SE compensator, in this instance, is by far the best money I have spent on my bike. The joy is back and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this change. I only hope it does the same for anyone else contemplating the swap.

Originally Posted by Hinzy

Neil with regard to the locking tool I will making my own too.
What lenght did you wind up with?
TIA Hinzy

Originally Posted by vickers1

I would like to install mine too but don't have enough info on making the tool. Any help here would be greatly appreciated (pictures help too).