auto tune what AFR do you set??
#21
When I had the stock cams I had it set for 14.7 from 5-15% in the cruise range, which worked fine. OTOH the SE255 cams were having some trouble with 14.7 and I was getting occasional hesitation just off-idle at low-TPs, so I tried bumping it richer to 14.5 and this fixed the problem. Later on I tried going to 14.6 at 10%, which is about where the bike cruises up to about 60mph. I've had it set there for a while, but recently bumped it richer to 14.4 at 5% to get rid of some of the gurgling and minor surging I was getting in that no-load region. That didn't help the situation much but I haven't changed it and it doesn't bother me enough to richen it more. When I switch to my rich base map all this disappears, so somewhere between 13.5 and 14.4 is the no-gurgle sweet-spot, but again it isn't a big enough issue to pursue it further. It's going to do that set that lean in no-load conditions and it doesn't hurt anything.
Jamie sells the 6-6 cams and has good maps available for it with most applications, so IMO AT isn't an absolute necessity. OTOH, life doesn't roll along dictated solely by necessity. It is a nice upgrade, though, if you have a configuration that has no map already available for it. It's also nice if you're an addicted tweaker like I am, as it makes getting the AFR's you want a much more precise proposition than before.
If I can get upper-40s I think you could too, that is if you can keep your wrist out of the throttle and ride solo. If you want to run the AFRs as lean as I do in the cruise range I would advise getting an oil cooler to keep the peak OT's in control. Even if you didn't run it this lean I would still recommend a cooler, as IMO all TC engines need one.
Jamie sells the 6-6 cams and has good maps available for it with most applications, so IMO AT isn't an absolute necessity. OTOH, life doesn't roll along dictated solely by necessity. It is a nice upgrade, though, if you have a configuration that has no map already available for it. It's also nice if you're an addicted tweaker like I am, as it makes getting the AFR's you want a much more precise proposition than before.
If I can get upper-40s I think you could too, that is if you can keep your wrist out of the throttle and ride solo. If you want to run the AFRs as lean as I do in the cruise range I would advise getting an oil cooler to keep the peak OT's in control. Even if you didn't run it this lean I would still recommend a cooler, as IMO all TC engines need one.
Thanks for the explanation on the fuel ratios. I figured there was a story behind that and was curious. I've already emailed Jamie on the pricing on the AT modules. They're not that bad really and I think I'll probably do it some time in the next couple of months, just 'cause!
I also talked to him about the Woods 6-6 cams when I ordered my pipes, AC, and PCV from him. If I do this, I'd like to schedule it for his shop to do the work. We've already talked about prices and I'm Ok with what he's charging. From Texas to Wisconsin isn't exactly a day ride but it's a darned good excuse to kill a week. All I gotta do is find a week to kill!
I would be tickled to death if I could hit the upper 40's in fuel economy, or even hit the low 40's more consistently than I am now. I don't consider myself to be an aggressive rider, at least not relative to most folks I've been around. Maybe I am relative to how you ride, I don't know. I have gotten in the low to mid 40's on a few occasions. My best economy numbers to date was in the mid 46's but that was cruising the Arkansas Ozarks and averaging 45 to 55 mph on a box stock bike. I haven't had the chance to make that kind of ride since putting the stage 1 mods on it. My mileage in local running and work commute has been basically the same as it was before the stage 1 mod. Considering that the bike is running a little stronger, smoother, and cooler than it was before the mods, I can certainly live with that!
Ride Safe,
Steve R.
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