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Thanks to Jamie and Gordon65 for clearing that up. I was wondering how SEST was specifying AFR's above 50% TP when the stock O2 sensors can't read in that area. As a curiosity, I'm running 14.5-14.6 in the cruise range, similar to what Gordon is running with his setup, and am not having any transition problems running 13.0 at WOT. Since I'm running the PCV-AT, is this comparing apples and oranges?

 

As noted earlier the PC-V uses a demanded AFR table while SEST/SERT/TTS have an AFR lookup table. The AFR in these calibrations is only used as a mathematical representation, however if the VE tables are synchronized correctly (such as on a dyno with a Wideband O2 sensor) the AFR table is actually an accurate representation of actual AFR. Note, even then the AFR is calculated not sampled unless it is set at 14.6:1 or its Lamda equivelent in the calibration

 

Thanks for posting the link. I've got that one saved to my desktop for future reference. I'm curious about one thing though, why the one to two tenths differences you mention between 5 and 20% throttle? I mean, 14.4 at 5%, 14.6 at 10% and 14.5 at 20%? I can't imagine you'll actually feel that or notice it making a difference in fuel economy. I would have thought just going 14.5 to 14.6 across the board in those throttle ranges for simplicities sake if nothing else? Just wondering!

I'm considering upgrading my Stage 1 conversion to AT. It's not that I'm looking to make that many more changes to the engine itself although I am strongly considering a 6-6 cam swap. I think it's cool to be able to specify an actual fuel ratio as apposed to just looking at the +/- adjustments on the standard tables, which sometimes look convoluted to me. (?)

Ride Safe,
Steve R.

PS: I'm on an Ultra as apposed to your Street Glide so I'm pulling around a bit more weight but if I could get my touring mileage consistantly up into the mid 40's, much less the upper 40's you mention, I'd be "thrilled!!"

 

Me too!!!

 

Well i fooled around a little more and went 14 in 0-30%, 13.9 40-60%, 13.8 70-100% will let you know after i ride it

 

I have PCV with auto tune. I actually bought Jamies setup when it was first released. I have tried all the AFR settings. I have used ICLICK's advice and it is very good on the settings. In fact ICLICK's advice has been so usefull for me, thanks so much ICLICK. But with all my riding, changing the setting was to take care of the heat. My AFR settings are now 13.4 and below. It has made a difference in the heat. Also initially the mileage suffered but the autotune slowly changed it. I now get 40mpg and a cool ride. Also at these settings the bike runs so good I have decided to leave it alone. Why I initially changed the setting was to set up 2 maps like Iclick's. After running a 1000 miles using the 13.4 and below settings I have decided to just leave it alone. I totally understand why someone wants a little more mpg but to save $2.00? I now have over 5,000 miles with AFR's below 13.4. I am totally so much happier with my map now than I have ever been! I also have to thank Jamie for his help on these changes. It is nice to pick a phone and give him a call.

 

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When I had the stock cams I had it set for 14.7 from 5-15% in the cruise range, which worked fine. OTOH the SE255 cams were having some trouble with 14.7 and I was getting occasional hesitation just off-idle at low-TPs, so I tried bumping it richer to 14.5 and this fixed the problem. Later on I tried going to 14.6 at 10%, which is about where the bike cruises up to about 60mph. I've had it set there for a while, but recently bumped it richer to 14.4 at 5% to get rid of some of the gurgling and minor surging I was getting in that no-load region. That didn't help the situation much but I haven't changed it and it doesn't bother me enough to richen it more. When I switch to my rich base map all this disappears, so somewhere between 13.5 and 14.4 is the no-gurgle sweet-spot, but again it isn't a big enough issue to pursue it further. It's going to do that set that lean in no-load conditions and it doesn't hurt anything.

Jamie sells the 6-6 cams and has good maps available for it with most applications, so IMO AT isn't an absolute necessity. OTOH, life doesn't roll along dictated solely by necessity. It is a nice upgrade, though, if you have a configuration that has no map already available for it. It's also nice if you're an addicted tweaker like I am, as it makes getting the AFR's you want a much more precise proposition than before.

[/quote]I'm on an Ultra as apposed to your Street Glide so I'm pulling around a bit more weight but if I could get my touring mileage consistantly up into the mid 40's, much less the upper 40's you mention, I'd be "thrilled!!" [/QUOTE]

If I can get upper-40s I think you could too, that is if you can keep your wrist out of the throttle and ride solo. If you want to run the AFRs as lean as I do in the cruise range I would advise getting an oil cooler to keep the peak OT's in control. Even if you didn't run it this lean I would still recommend a cooler, as IMO all TC engines need one.

 

I usually tune mine to the classic rock or 80's stations. Wait - what was the question again?