LMAO... and I thought that experience was unique to my oil changing methods.....

 

Yeah, the oil companies are getting rich off oil changes, not off the millions of gallons of gas that we burn every day.

Oil doesn't loose its lubricating ability, it gets contaminated thru the combustion process. These contaminants include dirt and dust which can be fitered out but also include harmful chemicals that can not. Frequent service, including oil changes, increases the life of your vehicle, results in more trouble free ownership, and catches small problems before they become large, more costly, ones.

And before anyone makes the assumption, I am not an employee of an oil company, I do not own any oil producing wells or mineral rights, nor do I own any stock in any oil or gas comapnies. I am just a slave to them like the rest of you.

However, I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!

 

Well it is interest, Porsche recommends a 15,000 change interval for the 911. Of course that is not an air cooled motor. On many aircraft engines the oil change interval is anywhere between 25 and 50 hours. But the aircraft are still using leaded fuel which creates another set of challenges for the oil. Aircraft they always recommend changing while the engine is at normal operating temp's as does Porsche.

 

Them German engineers don't know nothing! They have only been producing some of the finest vehicles, both 2 and 4 wheeled, in the world for like what.......................ever

 

This is copied out of the HD service manual:

1. Ride motorcycle until engine is warmed up to normal
operating temperature. Turn engine off.
2. Locate oil filler plug/dipstick on right side of vehicle at top
of transmission case.Turn filler plug/dipstick counterclockwise
to remove.
3. See Figure 1-4. Locate oil drain plug at front left side of
the oil pan. Remove the oil drain plug. Do not remove Allen
plug. Allow oil to drain completely.

 

If it is raining or to cold out, I just heat the oil pan with an propane tourch.
Doesn't take long and the plug is easier to remove because of oil pan expantion.

 

Sooo, could I get the same results if I heated it up over my backyard fire pit? I could put my auto ramp on each side, ride it up to center over the pit, then ride it off when it reaches temp. Just thinkin' ...... or maybe not thinkin'.

 

Just make sure you dismount the scoot while over the fire pit!

 

Many years ago when I was in school, we calculated that 40 hours on an airplane is equivalent to 1500 to 3000 miles on a car. Many dry sump aircraft engines (WWII radials) don’t change the oil all that often because they burn about a gallon and hour. So just adding oil keeps it pretty fresh.

While I do get the oil to normal temps in all my vehicles when I change the oil, I’m not sure it helps that much in a dry sump engine like our Harleys because we still leave a lot of dirty oil. That is why I am looking into the scavenging system. I know some of you guys have been changing oil in your bikes since Harley won the contract in WWII and your engines run fine, most air cooled enginse can handle a little dirty oil. Actually they can handle very dirty oil pretty well. But for me, it would be nice to know that I got all the dirty oil out.

Beary

 

If you read my previous post, you saw that I'm also intrigued and interested in the scavenging system. It bothers me to know that each time I put new and expensive Amsoil in my 2009 Ultra, it will be immediately contaminated by up to 1 quart of dirty oil left in the engine and crankcase, no matter how long I let the old oil drip from the pan and how hot the oil was when I changed it. It also bothers me to know that HD engineers haven't found a solution to the problem. We're in 2010, aren't we?