Very interesting point of view and one that I'll give strong consideration to planning my build.

 

Ok, Time to finish up this thread, the engine is done, broke in and is running great.

First things first. You always see me saying check everything, and I do mean everything when doing a build. And cleanliness is a must, one small metal chip or carbon chip can do damage and you just dont need anything to screw up the nice new parts.

Another item to do ahead of time is to grind the "lip" off of the stock intake flanges. Stock has a raised area around the bolt holes.


By grinding this off, when the heads are decked and the intake now sits deeper in the "V", there is still plenty of play to get the throttle body into place and proper tighten the bolt and pinch the gaskets.


I installed the cams, pretty straight forward and there are many other threads on how to put them in, orient the timing marks and check the gears. Once they are in, buttoned up the cam cover and slid the primed Black Ops lifters into the bores. Note: dont forget the anti-rotation pin. This can have catastophic results.


Setting ring gap, do not just put the ring at the top of the bore, push it down into the cyl with the piston inverted to a point where the ring will actually run.


Check the gap and when doing so ensure that the rings go back into the cylinder that was used to check gap. The cylinders should be identical but I am just sort of fussy that way.


Before installing pistons on the rods, I mark them as to orientation, ensuring that if the valve pockets are different size, the larger pockets go to the center of the engine as these are for the intake valves. The marking just ensures that at a glance, I have it right.


I slipped the cyls over the pistons. Next was to put the heads in place. I had to install the Auto Compression Releases into the heads.

You will need a special socket if you are installing ACRs, they are impossible to install without the socket.

ACR in socket


Once the heads are on the cyls, I torqued them following the Cometic method, to 42 Ft.lbs. The HD method will work with stock gaskets but with MLS you need to follow the instructions and torque properly. I then insterded the pushrods and tubes . DON'T forget to install the o-rings for the tubes. Even though these are adjustable pushrods, putting them in now allows you to extend them quite a bit and makes adjusting so much quicker and easier.


Using the oil pump alignment pins, I center the lower rocker boxes prior to tightening.


From this point on, the install is pretty straight forward, bolt in the rockers, covers, throttle body and exhaust. I spent a little time in routing the breather lines. I am not using a catch can, just vented directly under the bike.


Finished up all the little items that were removed, and loaded in a TTS map that I have and it fired on first rotation. The ACRs do work as designed, this is the first build I have done using ACRs and I dont think I will look back. It is very nice just to hit the switch and go.

Ran first tank of fuel through it (200 miles) and got about 38 mpg. Ran the second tank through yesterday, two up the whole day, combination of city and country riding and got 42mpg. I suspect it will go up a bit more as things wear in. So far, this will really keep me satisfied coming off a torque monster 120 onto the quicker reving 107 still with plenty of torque.

Hope some of you learn a bit by reading this type of thread, as these are just some steps that should be done.

 

Very nice Dalton. Great pics and useful commentary as usual. Never thought about the grinding of the intake flanges, but your justification makes total sense.

Zach

 

Others have had issues with sealing of the gaskets after having heads done, and decked. This works fine as long as you don't have a sh!tload taken off the bottom of the heads.

I have not had any issues with intake leaks by doing this.

 

Thanks Guy,

Excellent pictures, notes, and info.

 

Another great build.Wish you would move to Washington!!

 

I just did cams and rockers in my 103. At one point, the thought had crossed my mind to relieve the oil drain holes, but by the time I had the rocker covers off, it had completely slipped my mind. I don't think it's critical in a mild 103 motor, but otoh, whenever you get a chance to get more oil circulating in these motors, it's a good idea.

Oh well, I'll likely have the heads gone through next winter, there'll be time to do it then. I did install the Baisley +15 oil spring. I think a sticky regarding things to remember when you've got your motor apart is a very good idea.

Great thread!!! I've just got my bike together, and I'm already planning on what to do next time I've got it apart. I'm a sick, sick man.

 

I would just like to say thanks for taking the time to take the pictures and do the write up, i just wished i had the skills to be able to do the engine work and that we could get the parts as cheap and easy as you guys do in the states.

 

A beautiful job Guy, and so precisely written up, but I'd probably still screw something up. Enjoy the many miles and smiles the new bike and build will bring you. Ride Safe...