You don't need the cam-lock tool. That's the "gear-locking" tool I mentioned earlier. It's only purpose is to lock and hold the outer-sprockets while you torque the flange bolts, but all you need is to put it in gear and have someone to hold the brake pedal while you do it. The only specialty tool you will need is the inner-cam bearing tool and the usual tools most people already have, especially torque wrenches. You'll need both ft/lb. and in/lb. wrenches. You can use the Auto Zone blind-hole puller, but I'm not sure about installing the bearings with the old cams. To anyone who's done this, how do you know when the bearings are seated deep enough? Will the cams bottom out when they're in the right position? The Beatty tool seats them at the correct depth.

You're doing exactly the right thing. I asked questions and mulled over the service manual repeatedly looking for anything that I might have trouble with. I practically had the cam-install sections of the manual memorized before doing the job. When I decided I could do it I scheduled a day and just did it. Plan on a full day and maybe part of the next, go slow, check-off each item in the manual as you do it, and label everything! Have a friend come over to help, and it would be especially good to have someone there who's done a cam job before. I had a friend help but he was there to give me a hand, not for tech support. Keep the beer consumption reasonable, as you want to be able to think while doing the job. When you can see four cams you know you've had too many. Here are some important points, most of which are in both write-ups:

1. Make sure the lifters are fully bled-down before rotating the engine, even by hand. Give them 15 minutes.

2. If you reuse the stock pushrods mark them and make sure they go in exactly as before--same place, same orientation top and bottom

3. Be careful with the oil pump, as the innards will be loose and can fall out when removing the cam plate and doing other things. I left mine intact, but some may want to remove it to install a new o-ring.

4. Carefully watch the two small o-rings that seal the oil passages in the cam plate. If they are pinched or fall out during reassembly you will have oil leakage that will result in "sumping," and the only fix for this is to take it all apart and fix it.

5. If you use the binder clips recommended in the manual to hold the lifters, cut the tips and grind them so they can grab the clips in the top of the lifters. If you don't they will slip out and make your life miserable. Or, buy the new HD magnetic lifter holders for $20. Another solution would be to remove the lifter blocks and pull the lifters out with them, but that's too much bother IMO.

6. Make sure the lifters are oriented in the same direction and same position as before. Every one that I've seen is oriented from the factory with the oil side hole pointing outward, but is doesn't have to be. Just put them back as before, whatever that is.

7. Don't buy the HD cam-install kit. It has seven bearings, none of which you'll use. Buy the $50 Fuel Moto kit instead, which has the Torrington bearings included. Or, buy the gaskets, o-rings, and bearings separately. The latter idea will save a few $$ if you use adjustable pushrods, as you won't need the rocker gaskets and o-rings.

 

Yes, I'm across the Arkansas river from Muskogee. I can be in the Bass Pro Shops parking lot 30 minutes after I pull out of my drive. I really appreciate the offer, but I'm not a fan of loaning my tools and I wouldn't be comfortable borrowing yours. My luck with borrowing stuff I'd break it. Thanks again though...

 

Iclick, do you know the part number for the HD magnetic lifter holders? Also do you know the part numbers for all the parts I'll need listed in #7 of your post? (bearings, gaskets, o rings ect.) thanks again. Your gonna save me alot of money on this I can see. Many thanks. Also how many I'll need of each. I have a coupon that I need to use at the dealership this weekend or it will expire and I'd like to get everything with this discount coupon.

 

I did the cams in my 2004 Road King. The only special tool I needed was the tapered bolts to center the oil pump on reassembly. You will need standard tools like a good torque wrench, and lots of assembly lube.

Bolt cutters from Home Depot clipped the old pushrods out, and I put adjustable pushrods in. I borrowed a blind bearing puller from Autozone to pull the inner cam bearings. I used the old cams to set the new inner cam bearings in place. A small arbor press pressed the old bearings out of the cam plate, pressed the new outer cam bearings into the cam plate, and also pressed the new cams into their gears (gear drive cams). On my TC88 motor, an old 1/8" drill bit works fine for holding those crappy old spring loaded chain tensioners back (doesn't apply to the newer TC96 motors). I used an epoxy syringe to fill the new lifters with oil thru their oil feed holes before setting the lifters in place - this worked great and only took a minute each.

You bike looks newer (TC96?), so I'm sure things like the cam plate will be a little different. And of course, you don't have the crappy spring loaded cam tensioners to worry about.

Here are a few cam swap pictures you can look at: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/membe...04-flhrci.html

Good luck!
JR

 

Magnetic lifter holders 93979-10 (which IMHO I would not waste my money on as you can fashion clips from binder clips to hold them up instead of magnetizing your lifters).

11301 (2) oil passage o-rings
25244-99A cam cover gasket
25566-06 cam gear retention kit
25928-06 cam spacer kit
11461 retaining ring
24018-10 inner cam bearings
exhaust gaskets depending on if you stay stock or go with SE or ?
The o-rings for adjustable pushrods will be included in the pushrod kit.

 

I wouldn't spend the money on that. Just go to the office supply store and buy an oversized binder clip and use the wire handles of it.

 

Thanks dawg! I love this place…

 

Yep, these same buch of Yahoos inspired me to cam-it myself. I didn't enjoy it like I would a BJ but it was pretty satisfying none-the-less. Me, I rented the cam tool set from P. Barth, and even bought my assembly lube from him at the same time (for me it was peace of mind). If I had it to do over again, I would do it myself. Take pictures at every step. THen, if you awake in the wee hours, with a cold sweat wondering if you remembered o-rings or assembly lube, or whatever, you can just look at your pics and go back to bed. Besides, if you do it your self, you'll have bragin' rights. Send PM with your e-mail and I will send you a MSWORD file with everything you need to knwo about the tool rental, should you decide to roll that way.

http://s257.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=ce5298b7.pbw




KB

 

Werent you the guy wanting to open an Indy Shop and get dyno trained? Your gonna need tools to do that, you might as well start buying now and learn how to use them on your bike so that when someone is PAYING you to do it to thier bike you will do it right the first time.

 

True, but he'll need to grind-down and sharpen the tips for them to fit in the lifter clips to hold them. I didn't buy the magnetic holders either, but it is a simple solution and I doubt if they would magnetize the lifters enough to matter. I would assume HD wouldn't sell them if this was an issue.

Probably can reuse the originals. I did.

If the decision is made to reuse the stock pushrods I would just buy the Fuel Moto cam-install kit, which for $50 includes everything including Torrington bearings. Otherwise you'll need to add a bunch of additional gaskets, etc., to Dawg's list.