RED ALAERT Cam Swap Help Please@#$%!!!
#21
you didn't leave a little piece of wire in holding the tensioners back did you. I think compression should be close to 100. Did you replace all the gaskets in the rocker cover area, breather gaskets and oring. I don't know much to check. Theres only a few things. I don't think the pushrods will help. Did you rotate each cylinder to top end when you torqued the rocker arms? Did you plug the throttle body back in.
#22
#23
#24
I've stayed out of this one because like everyone else I'm stumped, and if Dawg and PhilM can't figure it out I certainly won't be of much help. The only thing that comes to mind is that somehow the pushrods got swapped, as the intake and exhaust are different lengths, but rest assured the stock pushrods are compatible. I used them in my upgrade and just helped a friend with the exact-same job two weeks ago, and many others have done it.
You can't get the cams out 180° but could get them out a tooth or two if not careful, but you'd have to be very sloppy in re-assembly to do that. Also, the HD cam-alignment tool won't be a factor in this since it only physically aligns the two cams as they go into the cam plate. It has nothing to do with cam timing. I can't see alignment being a factor anyway since the rear cam should be in alignment by default since it goes in only one way and is keyed to the crankshaft, that is assuming the dots line up. The front is the same way, and as long as the dots line up for the inner and outer sprockets you can't screw it up. Just thinking out loud here.
I would think lifters that are not pumped-up would only create more valve lash, not keep them open at the base circle, and if it did crank would make an horrific noise as I've witnessed before.
I'm anxiously watching this, as my cam write-up and others tout this as a doable job for a rider with moderate mechanical skills, so if there is a potential glitch in the process we need to know about it so others can be warned. I thought all of these had been covered.
To the OP, hang in there and keep us posted!
You can't get the cams out 180° but could get them out a tooth or two if not careful, but you'd have to be very sloppy in re-assembly to do that. Also, the HD cam-alignment tool won't be a factor in this since it only physically aligns the two cams as they go into the cam plate. It has nothing to do with cam timing. I can't see alignment being a factor anyway since the rear cam should be in alignment by default since it goes in only one way and is keyed to the crankshaft, that is assuming the dots line up. The front is the same way, and as long as the dots line up for the inner and outer sprockets you can't screw it up. Just thinking out loud here.
I would think lifters that are not pumped-up would only create more valve lash, not keep them open at the base circle, and if it did crank would make an horrific noise as I've witnessed before.
I'm anxiously watching this, as my cam write-up and others tout this as a doable job for a rider with moderate mechanical skills, so if there is a potential glitch in the process we need to know about it so others can be warned. I thought all of these had been covered.
To the OP, hang in there and keep us posted!
Last edited by iclick; 05-04-2010 at 03:29 PM.
#25
you didn't leave a little piece of wire in holding the tensioners back did you. I think compression should be close to 100. Did you replace all the gaskets in the rocker cover area, breather gaskets and oring. I don't know much to check. Theres only a few things. I don't think the pushrods will help. Did you rotate each cylinder to top end when you torqued the rocker arms? Did you plug the throttle body back in.
Thanks for keeping an eye out for me. Yes I pulled the wires on the tensioners have both paper clips on the bench. Compreswsion should be close to 200 from what I am hearing for the sotock configuration. Yes on the breather gaskets replace them. Yes I was on base circle when tightening down the rocker arms. Yes I did plug in the throttle body. Onward we go today is a new day!
#26
I've stayed out of this one because like everyone else I'm stumped, and if Dawg and PhilM can't figure it out I certainly won't be of much help. The only thing that comes to mind is that somehow the pushrods got swapped, as the intake and exhaust are different lengths, but rest assured the stock pushrods are compatible. I used them in my upgrade and just helped a friend with the exact-same job two weeks ago, and many others have done it.
You can't get the cams out 180° but could get them out a tooth or two if not careful, but you'd have to be very sloppy in re-assembly to do that. Also, the HD cam-alignment tool won't be a factor in this since it only physically aligns the two cams as they go into the cam plate. It has nothing to do with cam timing. I can't see alignment being a factor anyway since the front cam should be in alignment by default since it goes in only one way and is keyed to the crankshaft. Just thinking out loud here.
I would think lifters that are not pumped-up would only create more valve lash, not keep them open at the base circle, and if it did crank would make an horrific noise as I've witnessed before.
I'm anxiously watching this, as my cam write-up and others tout this as a doable job for a rider with moderate mechanical skills, so if there is a potential glitch in the process we need to know about it so others can be warned. I thought all of these had been.
To the OP, hang in there and keep us posted!
You can't get the cams out 180° but could get them out a tooth or two if not careful, but you'd have to be very sloppy in re-assembly to do that. Also, the HD cam-alignment tool won't be a factor in this since it only physically aligns the two cams as they go into the cam plate. It has nothing to do with cam timing. I can't see alignment being a factor anyway since the front cam should be in alignment by default since it goes in only one way and is keyed to the crankshaft. Just thinking out loud here.
I would think lifters that are not pumped-up would only create more valve lash, not keep them open at the base circle, and if it did crank would make an horrific noise as I've witnessed before.
I'm anxiously watching this, as my cam write-up and others tout this as a doable job for a rider with moderate mechanical skills, so if there is a potential glitch in the process we need to know about it so others can be warned. I thought all of these had been.
To the OP, hang in there and keep us posted!
Thanks dude and everything you said is correct and I agree. I read your post and Atrains studyied for over a month collecting parts and wiat till the time I had planned to do it. The push rods are black exhaust outside lifter and forward and reaward most holes on the cylinders. Intake silver inner lifters inner holes in cylinders.
I have not done the smoke test yet hope to this morning. But I have noticed that the exhaust rocker arm on both cylinders is just a little higher than the intake at base circle. I know the exhaust pushrod is longer but I would think that the lenth is added for the angle of trajectory. So I am hoping the smoke test shows exhaust leaking then I can think of is going to a adjustable push rod to correct this.
Has ANYONE used stock push rods and SE255 cams in a 2008???
I know iclick has in his 07.
#28
#29
I have not done the smoke test yet hope to this morning. But I have noticed that the exhaust rocker arm on both cylinders is just a little higher than the intake at base circle. I know the exhaust pushrod is longer but I would think that the lenth is added for the angle of trajectory. So I am hoping the smoke test shows exhaust leaking then I can think of is going to a adjustable push rod to correct this.
You are correct, the extra length on the exhaust rod is due to the longer angle to the exhaust rocker arm.
Zach
#30