Usually sumping impacts mid to high tange more than right off throttle. As rpms increase, the exces oil that the crank must sling through will cause the engine to labor. This could be the issue, but I would suspect tuning, cam timing, jetting, etc first.

 

The only reason I am even considering checking into this myself is the shop is 2 hours away and if it turns into just a tuning issue, I can handle that. If in fact it is sumping, I would like to know myself and then will let the shop fix it as I am sure they will. Maybe it's just that I was expecting more for my bucks. I knew the 510 cam would not help off idle, but didn't expect to lose any torque either. It seems to run fine above 2500 RPM. I was hoping someone on this site had the same work done and could tell me how their bike runs. Maybe tomorrow???

 

If it runs fine above 2500 rpm you can pretty much rule out sumping.

 

Easy, I'm glad Dalton is jumping in, that is what I said in all my posts, would somebody with more experience Please chime in. I still think it [ could ] be sumping, your first description made me think of sumping. I will guarantee you that Dalton, PhilM, HOGDOC, etc. did not start off with the knowledge they have now. They started on things just like this, and tried to figure it out. I said in my post, if it is sumping, your mechanic is responsible and should fix it. But if you want to learn and work on your own Bike, which you said you did, you approach it just like you are. Don't be admonished by statements like " Don't Touch It " You are doing the right thing even if it just makes you more knowledgeable when you take your Bike in. Man, if I just had a fraction of the experience of a Dalton, or a PhilM, I would feel way better about my working on my own Bike. Maybe someday. Good Luck on your Bike, Jim.

 

Thanks Jim, any information helps and sometimes makes for an easier fix. I am thinking that it didn't sump right away as the mechanic took it for a test ride and commented on how well it ran the day before I picked it up (had to trailer it due to weather). Is it common for the sumping to begin after riding or sitting overnight rather than filling up right after start up? Should I warm it up prior to taking the plug out or just take it out where it sits. If no excess oil is in the bottom end I guess the problem lies somewhere else.

Easy

 

Again, Dalton chime in, should he check oil for possible sumping, if yes, what is the best way,if he can eliminate this as a possibility, he is that much closer to figuring it out. Jim.

 

Mine's an 01 Ultra with the 510G's and a stage 1 Big Sucker with the mm injection that had the DFO on it and thought it did fine at low rpm's. Not a race horse but pulls pretty good from start to around 3500 where i usually run. Just changed to a power commander3 and it's going to Doc's in St. Louis wednesday for a dyno tune.

 

Does it never end? I've been trying to get the plug out of the case and short of using a 3 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar, I can't get it to budge. I don't want to end up destroying my case, so unless someone can help me figure this out I'll just wait until Tuesday and let the shop deal with it. It is still pouring the rain and all I wound up doing was warming up the bike and checking the revs. With sumping, should I be able to rev easily from idle or should I be able to feel some resistance in the motor? It really sounds strong and revs easily up thru 4,000 with no hesitation or abnormal sounds, is it only while puting a load on the engine (riding the bike) that sumping would be noticed?

Wet in Tennessee

 

As I said earlier in this thread, sumping is more apparent as power loss as the rpms rise. You indicated that the problem is right off idle into the lower rpms and then runs better at higher rpms, that is not an indication of sumping. Tuning is more likely the culprit.

 

Thanks for the info Dalton. The rain is supposed to be out of here tomorrow so I will be able to do more in the way of tuning and trying to figure things out then. Wish me luck.