HQ 107" build in the works...
#21
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#22
#24
Day 2 ~ Not too much progress tonight, but some.
First, I ran the rocker boxes & covers of to JudCowleyCycles.com for appropriate clearancing.
First task was pulling the stock inner cam bearings
Both bearings out
Here's a look at the stockers vs. the Timkens. Notice how many more rollers are in the Timkens and there is no flimsy roller cage to break.
Stock cams vs. HQ-575's
Cams aligned in chain. My tired eyes need additional marking to see the alignment dots.
New cams in plate, lubed & ready to go back in
Pump cleaned up, re-lubed, & installed with new orings.
Plate with cams, installed and torqued (EXCEPT the oil pump bolts ~ those come later), and gears installed w/o chain to check gear alignment. In most cases, a different shim is required ~ not this time.
New HQ "Black-Ops" lifters. These are some of the best currently available.
Priming the lifters. This is something I just tried a couple weeks ago and it worked GREAT! This is the 3rd time I've done this & will continue. The tip of my oil can fits perfectly into the lifters oil feed hole. About three pumps, & oil starts coming out the top!
The last thing for today was installing the lifters & lifter blocks. I like to use the alignment pins on these too. May or not make much difference, but I know they are "square" this way.
You may be wondering about the oil pump alignment. I can not do that until I get some jugs & pistons back on, so for now, it's not aligned or tightened.
One other tidbit… This motor is pretty fresh (6k'ish miles) & crank runout is good, at: .0035 ~ 3.5 thou…. At least for now.
Over & out!
First, I ran the rocker boxes & covers of to JudCowleyCycles.com for appropriate clearancing.
First task was pulling the stock inner cam bearings
Both bearings out
Here's a look at the stockers vs. the Timkens. Notice how many more rollers are in the Timkens and there is no flimsy roller cage to break.
Stock cams vs. HQ-575's
Cams aligned in chain. My tired eyes need additional marking to see the alignment dots.
New cams in plate, lubed & ready to go back in
Pump cleaned up, re-lubed, & installed with new orings.
Plate with cams, installed and torqued (EXCEPT the oil pump bolts ~ those come later), and gears installed w/o chain to check gear alignment. In most cases, a different shim is required ~ not this time.
New HQ "Black-Ops" lifters. These are some of the best currently available.
Priming the lifters. This is something I just tried a couple weeks ago and it worked GREAT! This is the 3rd time I've done this & will continue. The tip of my oil can fits perfectly into the lifters oil feed hole. About three pumps, & oil starts coming out the top!
The last thing for today was installing the lifters & lifter blocks. I like to use the alignment pins on these too. May or not make much difference, but I know they are "square" this way.
You may be wondering about the oil pump alignment. I can not do that until I get some jugs & pistons back on, so for now, it's not aligned or tightened.
One other tidbit… This motor is pretty fresh (6k'ish miles) & crank runout is good, at: .0035 ~ 3.5 thou…. At least for now.
Over & out!
#25
Hi Phil,
what do you charge for all this? Parts and labour? Curious as I need to start saving pennies! What type of numbrs does this build get? Numbers don't mean too much but bragging rights, moreso the arm ripping power... (butt-dyno)
I'm still 96 with Andrews 26H, TTS, SE Heavy Breather, stock heads and SE Street Performance mufflers. (Black with the addt'l black covers for the head pipes)
my numbers were 100 ft-lb, and 89 HP.
I'm sick so I want to do heads and 107. I was planning Axtell.
what do you charge for all this? Parts and labour? Curious as I need to start saving pennies! What type of numbrs does this build get? Numbers don't mean too much but bragging rights, moreso the arm ripping power... (butt-dyno)
I'm still 96 with Andrews 26H, TTS, SE Heavy Breather, stock heads and SE Street Performance mufflers. (Black with the addt'l black covers for the head pipes)
my numbers were 100 ft-lb, and 89 HP.
I'm sick so I want to do heads and 107. I was planning Axtell.
#27
Hi Phil,
what do you charge for all this? Parts and labour? Curious as I need to start saving pennies! What type of numbrs does this build get? Numbers don't mean too much but bragging rights, moreso the arm ripping power... (butt-dyno)
I'm still 96 with Andrews 26H, TTS, SE Heavy Breather, stock heads and SE Street Performance mufflers. (Black with the addt'l black covers for the head pipes)
my numbers were 100 ft-lb, and 89 HP.
I'm sick so I want to do heads and 107. I was planning Axtell.
what do you charge for all this? Parts and labour? Curious as I need to start saving pennies! What type of numbrs does this build get? Numbers don't mean too much but bragging rights, moreso the arm ripping power... (butt-dyno)
I'm still 96 with Andrews 26H, TTS, SE Heavy Breather, stock heads and SE Street Performance mufflers. (Black with the addt'l black covers for the head pipes)
my numbers were 100 ft-lb, and 89 HP.
I'm sick so I want to do heads and 107. I was planning Axtell.
Cost really depends on what all is done and how much extra "stuff" is on a bike that has b be removed & reinstalled. "typically", labor is in the $500 range for top end & cams.
The price ofthe hardware is defined by the vendor - HQ, TMan, etc.
"Numbers" are what they are, vary from one dyno to the next, & really don't mean dick. Tuned, is tuned and "Rideability" is what matters.
Last edited by PhilM; 04-29-2010 at 12:58 PM.
#28
Phil, I'm putting together the parts for my own big bore kit. I bought used cylinders and heads and will take them to a local shop for bore and porting. I'm going 103 with KB 10:1 pistons and S&S 570 Easy Start cams. I ride 2 up touring most of the time. In other words loaded down!!!!
The machinist suggested that I use stock pushrods since there will be very little deck height change in the heads. I like that idea since it is simple and requires no adjustment. However, I would have to cut them out later if I ever do a cam simple cam change.
I see in this thread that you are changing the lifters. I'm assuming that you're doing this due to the high lift cams. Now for my questions.
1. Based on my build, do you think I should change lifters and install adjustable pushrods? If so, why? Where do you buy your Headquarters lifters?
2. Do you think I'm on the right track for my riding style? I still haven't purchased the cams but I have purchased the pistons.
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I know you're a busy man in the middle of a project. I also know you are one of the "motor Gurus" here on this awesome forum. I'll take anything you state to heart.
PS - I also purchased all the tools from George's garage.
Steve
The machinist suggested that I use stock pushrods since there will be very little deck height change in the heads. I like that idea since it is simple and requires no adjustment. However, I would have to cut them out later if I ever do a cam simple cam change.
I see in this thread that you are changing the lifters. I'm assuming that you're doing this due to the high lift cams. Now for my questions.
1. Based on my build, do you think I should change lifters and install adjustable pushrods? If so, why? Where do you buy your Headquarters lifters?
2. Do you think I'm on the right track for my riding style? I still haven't purchased the cams but I have purchased the pistons.
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I know you're a busy man in the middle of a project. I also know you are one of the "motor Gurus" here on this awesome forum. I'll take anything you state to heart.
PS - I also purchased all the tools from George's garage.
Steve
Last edited by sifularson; 04-29-2010 at 12:58 PM.
#29
Phil, I'm putting together the parts for my own big bore kit. I bought used cylinders and heads and will take them to a local shop for bore and porting. I'm going 103 with KB 10:1 pistons and S&S 570 cams. I ride 2 up touring most of the time. In other words loaded down!!!!
The machinist suggested that I use stock pushrods since there will be very little deck height change in the heads. I like that idea since it is simple and requires no adjustment. However, I would have to cut them out later if I ever do a cam simple cam change.
I see in this thread that you are changing the lifters. I'm assuming that you're doing this due to the high lift cams. Now for my questions.
1. Based on my build, do you think I should change lifters and install adjustable pushrods? If so, why?
2. Do you think I'm on the right track for my riding style? I still haven't purchased the cams but I have purchased the pistons.
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I know you're a busy man in the middle of a project. I also know you are one of the "motor Gurus" here on this awesome forum. I'll take anything you state to heart.
PS - I also purchased all the tools from George's garage.
Steve
The machinist suggested that I use stock pushrods since there will be very little deck height change in the heads. I like that idea since it is simple and requires no adjustment. However, I would have to cut them out later if I ever do a cam simple cam change.
I see in this thread that you are changing the lifters. I'm assuming that you're doing this due to the high lift cams. Now for my questions.
1. Based on my build, do you think I should change lifters and install adjustable pushrods? If so, why?
2. Do you think I'm on the right track for my riding style? I still haven't purchased the cams but I have purchased the pistons.
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I know you're a busy man in the middle of a project. I also know you are one of the "motor Gurus" here on this awesome forum. I'll take anything you state to heart.
PS - I also purchased all the tools from George's garage.
Steve
1) over time, lifters develop wear patterns associated with the cam lobe(s) it/they has been "running on". Personally, I always recommend changing lifters with a cam swap. Some don't and are fine. Some don't & wish they did. As far as pushrods go, it's a coin toss. I've used stocker on smaller cams (TW26, HQ-0034, etc.) but never on a 570. It may be fine, but I am not personally familiar enough with the cam & what headwork is being do to make an education recommendation other than "adjustables" would work perfectly.
2) I do know that the 570 cam, at 10:1, works great with the old style S/E "Performance Heads". I have absolutely no idea what your Indy will or will not do to the heads. Is he known for doing headwork? If so, great. If not..... I'd either leave the heads alone or enage someone that does it for a living. Once cut.... they are what they are. None of the Pro's will touch them.
#30
Hey Steve....
1) over time, lifters develop wear patterns associated with the cam lobe(s) it/they has been "running on". Personally, I always recommend changing lifters with a cam swap. Some don't and are fine. Some don't & wish they did. As far as pushrods go, it's a coin toss. I've used stocker on smaller cams (TW26, HQ-0034, etc.) but never on a 570. It may be fine, but I am not personally familiar enough with the cam & what headwork is being do to make an education recommendation other than "adjustables" would work perfectly.
2) I do know that the 570 cam, at 10:1, works great with the old style S/E "Performance Heads". I have absolutely no idea what your Indy will or will not do to the heads. Is he known for doing headwork? If so, great. If not..... I'd either leave the heads alone or enage someone that does it for a living. Once cut.... they are what they are. None of the Pro's will touch them.
1) over time, lifters develop wear patterns associated with the cam lobe(s) it/they has been "running on". Personally, I always recommend changing lifters with a cam swap. Some don't and are fine. Some don't & wish they did. As far as pushrods go, it's a coin toss. I've used stocker on smaller cams (TW26, HQ-0034, etc.) but never on a 570. It may be fine, but I am not personally familiar enough with the cam & what headwork is being do to make an education recommendation other than "adjustables" would work perfectly.
2) I do know that the 570 cam, at 10:1, works great with the old style S/E "Performance Heads". I have absolutely no idea what your Indy will or will not do to the heads. Is he known for doing headwork? If so, great. If not..... I'd either leave the heads alone or enage someone that does it for a living. Once cut.... they are what they are. None of the Pro's will touch them.
http://deweysheads.com/HDBD_home.html
I'm having trouble finding the HQ lifters online. Can you help with a link?
Which adjustable pushrods do you use?
I'm going to go ahead a do it. Might as well while I'm in there.
Thanks