I read in a bike magazine about just such an occurrence,

It seems the master cylinder has a bleed valve that allows caliper fluid to flow back into the master as the caliper heats up from use,

If this bleed valve is blocked, the caliper will expand and lock the wheel,

That is all I remember from the article,

 

You're quite right. I had replaced an old genuine lever (no longer made) with a pattern Custom Chrome one. Looks the same, but fouled the piston, so it was not returning fully. I still had the old (broken) lever and could see where they were very slightly different, so filed away the new one until it let the piston come out fully.

I should have realised that the brake light was not going out every time I squeezed the lever (in the UK we have an annual vehicle inspection that checks that sort of thing), which was the clue I missed. All appears OK now, although I haven't plucked up courage to take it out for a long trip yet!

 

I checked another '07 at the HD shop today and that rear-brake configuration looked exactly like mine, so I've decided I no longer have a problem. I think the inner pad was marginally too large and was dragging slightly, and minimal use loosened it up.

 

Whenever I take a wheel off I almost always push the brake pistons back.
Helps get everything aligned where it should be after reinstall.
Couple of squeezes on the brakes after and everythings set the way it should be....ride on.

lp

 

What is this rubber bumper you describe?
(BTW, my cams are great, thanks)
Thanks

 

There is an opposing V notch in the caliper where it lands on the swingarm support bracket. The notch is to allow the caliper to pivot as the swing arm goes up and down. At the intersection of the v points on the bottom side there is a rubber bumper that probably was added to reduce rattle. It pulls through a hole drilled in the caliper and when the caliper is installed on the swing arm bracket it pushes on the bottom of the bracket. You cannot see it without removing the caliper when the axle is out. If you are changing/removing rear wheel you should have a new one on hand from the last time you were at the dealer. It may be one of those times you get out of the dealership for less than $3.

 

To add to X Iron Butt's reply, it's part #44351-00 in my '07 parts manual, but there may not be one or it may be different on newer bikes with Brembo brakes. It's very easy to position improperly or lose if you don't align it as you install the wheel and position the caliper, and the service manual doesn't even mention it as something to check.

I might give an update here while I'm on this thread. The last time I changed pads in Nov. '11 I had the same trouble and discovered that the caliper and rotor aren't aligned properly, closer on the inside pad than the outside. It's not an axial misalignment but lateral (left and right). I ground the inside pad down like I did the last time and will try to get a grip on this problem the next time I change my rear tire, which will be in the next six months. I posted a message at that time and you can read it here and more feedback on HTT.

I'm planning on installing the new tire on my spare wheel and will see if the gap difference is the same. If not I may need to shim and grind the axle spacers for that wheel only, or do it for both wheels if necessary. I can't imagine what is causing this.