If someone is going with TR590 cams and investigating headwork, then the logical thing to do wouild be to talk to TR (TMan) about it. Nobody knows how to set heads up for his cams better than him. Furthermore, he does work on the HD heads too, where many do not.

If you're still looking for someone trustworth to build it, DFW is not that far from Missouri. I'd suggest http://www.judcowleycycles.com. It was Jud that I mentioned earlier in this thread that found the issue, fixed, and tuned the SE120. It also had TR590's & TMan heads. As such, he already has first hand experience with this exact config.

You may or may not care, but I help out with some of his stuff on occasion, so I could end up working on it too.

 

That sounds real cheap installed.Like previously mentioned the kit is over 6 grand itself.You dont need the cases, have yours bored for the 4.125 bore.That extra money can be used for clutch upgrade, or head work!!! You better send that crank out too, & have it welded,plugged,trued & balanced!!!

 

if you want it done correctly the first time I suggest you listen to Phil -- paying for motor work twice is very expensive and aggravating DONT ASK ME HOW I KNOW

 

I thought knowledge or education was supposed to be bliss or something like that. The more I know the dumber I get. You guys are spraining my brain. Jeez.

 

I'm more than convinced that Phil or Dalton can build an engine. They are builders, not bolters. I highly respect their skills. I wish I had skills such as theirs. I'm envious.

But, as people tell me, I'm doing my research. Not on them, but on the kits. My puny 95" put out 110/113. I'm seeing 110/115 from 107s. What gives?

The SE 120 says 140/130. Their 113 120/120 (not exactly. Just from memory).

If I'm going to put out $6k in parts (when I can get the SE 120 for $4k with 20% dis) I want some serious efing power. 130/130. 110/110 blows. Been there done that on a bike that weighed 300 llbs less.

I can just see Phil and Dalton putting a wheelie popping package together for me now. You go hot rodders.

 

I sent ya all this in a PM, but since ya asked out here too.... I'll answer out here too....
_____________________
I have a couple thoughts & comments.

FIRST & FOREMOST - "Numbers" don't mean jacksh1t - PERIOD. Do not get wrapped up in them or you are setting setting yourself up for CERTAIN disappointment.

Second.... Regarding the SE95 with 110/113. I am 100% sure those "numbers" came from an older ("happy") dyno ~ like a DJ100 or 150. I am equally certain (say... $1000, certain) that if you were to make a pull on a new DJ250i, like the ones we are tuning on today, that SE95 would be lucky to pull 100/100. I say that, having personally owned an HQ98" build that pulled 113/111 on an old 150, "back in the day".

It's kinda like saying: "You ain't **** because it takes you 29.90 seconds to make a lap at TX Motor Speedway, when I can make a lap (at Bristol) in 13.85". They are just not the same.

Third.... If you are hell bent on 130/130, you better keep look'n because neither the SE120 or HQ120 will do it. The HQ120 will make torque into the 140s, but Hp will be somewhere in the 118 ~ 125 range. I "know". I've built one of my own and worked with several others.

If you really want something in the 130+/130+ range, that's A-Ok.... all it takes is $$$.

........

If you came to me and said "I need at least 130/130", I'd point you to:
http://tmanperformance.com/index.html and http://www.baisley.com/ and have them help ya figure out what package truly "best suits you needs".

Be realistic about what you're after & how you will "really" use it.

Even if $$ is no object, do not overlook rideability & reliability in search of some mythical "number". Do you "tour" on you bike? If so, remember not all fuel is created equal & you just might cook a motor "tweaked to the max" when you're out tool's across OK in August, @ 105 degrees with only 89 octane available. Additionally, ya wanna be sure it'll start after that heat soak, during the fuel stop for that precious 89 fuel....

Again.... be honest and realistic with what you're really after.

BTW - that wheelie pic in my sig, was with that old HQ98" motor.

 

Phil
I hear everything you are saying. I'm convinced that you Dalton and a few others are passinate builders.

I'll just ask, what build should I get since I don't know anything. I don't really tour. I mostly go bar to bar. I might go out of town some times. Mostly I like ripping the **** of it from stop to stop. Guess I can't have it both ways. Wish I had my puny 95 back.

 

Now we have something to work with!

Given that tidbit....

One might consider a TMan 117, configured something like this:
Stage 3 heads
11.3:1 Static CR
662-2 cams
Using S&S 4.125" jugs & pistons
TMan crank
TMan / HPI 54mm TB, with HPI injectors
Boarzilla exhaust

If "ripping" is your objective, the 117 (4.375" stroke) will spool up a bit quicker than a 120/124 (4.675" stroke). That config WILL Rip, & do so in a reasonably reliable fashion.

Having said all that..... You should still talk to TR directly & get his input & recommendation(s).

 

I did put the order in three weeks ago. since I ordered cases they had to have my
vin stamped on them . I guess that takes time? I went that way so I could have
the motor built while still riding then pull one motor for the other.
It sounds like most of the motor builders are thinking I went at this the wrong way.
I'm starting to feel buyer remorse again.

 

I don't think anyone said it was the wrong thing/way -- just be realistic about expectations. Good luck with your build.