Isolated Drive Sprocket. Standard on 08 and later. Available as an accessory for 07

 

I have it. Much more noticeable on the RIGHT side of bike. Vibrates so much that my passenger peg and highway peg will shake down from folded position. Dealer says normal... Grrrr.

 

Thanks for the tip. I have a 2008 FLHX on the rack with a bad vibration between 1700 and 1800 rpm. Checked the powertrain alignment,replaced the front motor mount with a Velva-ride unit (helped a little bit) checked for any contact with the frame and engine,trans,primary system. checked stabilizer mounts and engine to trans mounts. The bike has 9343 miles .Opened up the primary and adjusted the self adjusting tensioner along with chain alignment. The compensator bolt is tight and runout of the clutch shell is .003. Fuel management is a Terry Components which is working fine (spark plugs a light tan) No intake leaks. I checked the rear motor mounts and pivot shaft. The pinion shaft runout is .002. Any ideas and or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you Chicago Bob. Also checked the primary chain in four spots for stretching.

 

Sorry to revive an old thread, but when you guys are talking about these vibration issues with the '07's, are you talking about vibration while riding or while the bike is idling? I just bought a used '07 Street Glide with 20K miles and while riding, it's fairly smooth (but damn that 5th gear is loud), but while idling, the thing shakes like one of those little chihuahua dogs that look like rats...so much so that it's broken the fairing mounts (what else is new).

 

i had a bad vibration on my 08 flhx,turned out to be the stock exhaust was misalligned and rubbing in several locations.more rpms more vibration.problem was solved by changing exhaust .this was after changing front motor mount,crank runout etc.good luck

 

Hey there,
I have a 07 FLHX with 58K, and have been going through some of the same stuff, and I'll list what I have found out.
The fairing brackets will crack, HD has the replacements and they are stronger than original.
Vibrations- I did a lot of digging into this subject. Replaced the original front engine mount at around 32K with a urethane one. I have found these work well, but HAVE to be installed correctly. Too tight and the vibs translate to the frame. Too loose and the vib's translate to the fairing.
Front neck (steering) bearings. Check em. I adjusted mine (bit of a pain) and it helped a lot. Not easy but once you get the concept it is easy but time consuming. Caution** I used the factory repair manual and adjusted them. But now found HD may have a service bulletin about their original check for play. (you actually swing the front end while up on a jack and measure the number of arc's to determine looseness). This I understand has been changed to a tighter configuration. These two items seem to play largely to front end/engine vib's.
Now, not to be a advertiser for Glide Pro, but I spent some time last night reviewing their video's on the website. The owner (an aircraft mechanic) demonstrates how to check the neck bearings, how to align your bike, and how to install his products. I am not endorsing him, but from what I have learned plan on installing the entire glide pro system on my bike this winter. Check out the videos, it will teach you a lot.

Tru trac, although I have never used the product seems to be a viable option for wobble, but I feel (my opinion) treats the symptom of loose or worn swing arm bushings and not the problem of rubber wear. So I think it would work, but your chassis is still loose.

You have to understand here that the engine is part of the linear integrity of the machine, and if it is not properly located and secured, the vibration will translate and rigidity of the system is compromised.
Ok, some of you will day I am full of it, that is OK, remember this is my opinion, and you know what that is worth.....
kiskiman