Thinking about changing cams myself
#11
04-10-2010, 06:26 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Forget stroke, forget TDC, forget timing marks, forget the left side of the motor exists!
Stick 2 fingers on top of the lifters for the rear cylinder, rotate the wheel and watch your fingers. Exhaust goes up and starts down as the intake starts up, if you rock the wheel back and forth the lifters will rock up and down opposite each other, at this point the FRONT cylinder is on base circle. Want proof stick your fingers on the front lifters and rock the wheel back and forth. They arent moving right? THATS base circle.
No need to make a simple job difficult!
Stick 2 fingers on top of the lifters for the rear cylinder, rotate the wheel and watch your fingers. Exhaust goes up and starts down as the intake starts up, if you rock the wheel back and forth the lifters will rock up and down opposite each other, at this point the FRONT cylinder is on base circle. Want proof stick your fingers on the front lifters and rock the wheel back and forth. They arent moving right? THATS base circle.
No need to make a simple job difficult!
#12
04-10-2010, 07:49 PM
Base circle is base circle, no matter how you get to it just MAKE SURE your on it! The way I described above is the easiest way I've found.
2 steps, DONE!
#13
04-10-2010, 09:21 PM
I figured it out when I was about 14 setting valves on a small block trying to follow the whole set #1 cylinder on TDC and adjust intake valve on such and such cylinders and rotate it to #5 and adjust sucha and such exhaust vavles blah blah blah.
Base circle is base circle, no matter how you get to it just MAKE SURE your on it! The way I described above is the easiest way I've found.
2 steps, DONE!
Base circle is base circle, no matter how you get to it just MAKE SURE your on it! The way I described above is the easiest way I've found.
2 steps, DONE!
Exactly !!!
#15
04-10-2010, 09:59 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
I figured it out when I was about 14 setting valves on a small block trying to follow the whole set #1 cylinder on TDC and adjust intake valve on such and such cylinders and rotate it to #5 and adjust sucha and such exhaust vavles blah blah blah.
Base circle is base circle, no matter how you get to it just MAKE SURE your on it! The way I described above is the easiest way I've found.
2 steps, DONE!
Base circle is base circle, no matter how you get to it just MAKE SURE your on it! The way I described above is the easiest way I've found.
2 steps, DONE!
Another question.....best to replace push rods or with low mileage (10.5K) is it worth it? Do not want to go cheap once in there.
#16
04-10-2010, 10:20 PM
I just did cams and big bore on my '06 S/G with 44,000 miles.
My push rods looked fine, but for $20.00 I replaced them with new.
My tensioners were less than half worn.
I upgraded to the SE cam plate with hydraulic tensioners.
Several members on this forum were very helpful.
(Thanks PhilM, atrain68, UltraKla$$ic & dawg)
Plus many others that posted their builds on the forums.
My push rods looked fine, but for $20.00 I replaced them with new.
My tensioners were less than half worn.
I upgraded to the SE cam plate with hydraulic tensioners.
Several members on this forum were very helpful.
(Thanks PhilM, atrain68, UltraKla$$ic & dawg)
Plus many others that posted their builds on the forums.
#17
04-10-2010, 10:20 PM
I always use adjustables. That way no matter what has been done to the top end you KNOW that the push rods are the correct length when installed properly.
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