255 cam change. ADVICE PLEASE.
#1
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I know there are several threads on this subject. I just wanted to get some feedback from others who have done the same swap. I have a few questions. Could you do your best to answer them? I'd appreciate the help guys. Maybe I can return the favor someday.
I found a set of pristine cams on Craigs list for $135. They will arrive next week. Now for my questions . . .
1. Which adjustable pushrods should I get so I don't have to mess with the heads?
2. What other parts do I need?
3. What tools do I need?
4. I already have a Big Sucker AC and V&H duals. Also have a SERT. I was hoping to avoid a dyno tune afterward. Do you think I can get away without the dyno? Or is that wishful thinking?
5. Any other advice?
I found a set of pristine cams on Craigs list for $135. They will arrive next week. Now for my questions . . .
1. Which adjustable pushrods should I get so I don't have to mess with the heads?
2. What other parts do I need?
3. What tools do I need?
4. I already have a Big Sucker AC and V&H duals. Also have a SERT. I was hoping to avoid a dyno tune afterward. Do you think I can get away without the dyno? Or is that wishful thinking?
5. Any other advice?
#3
#4
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Here is my .02 cents for what it's worth...
After having done this this winter.
1) The HD adj. pushrods and shorter tubes would make it easier to adjust them, I got Andrews (still good) but a little headache w/ my big hands and a little more room would be nice.
2)A cam retention kit (dealer) all the gaskets and O-rings AMS Machine or dealer can sell you all you need. You also need new lifters and inner bearings.
3)I bought a bearing puller/install tool, a little sprocket locker tool from Georges Garage.com, Cheapest I found.
Here is the opinion that will likely get the most flak.....LOL
If I was doing 255's ( I did 26H's). I would do comp. releases..Just because I have that kind of luck, if anyone would have issues w/ hard start it would be me and that's why I have 26's from Andrews.
You will be very happy with a cam change.
Mark
After having done this this winter.
1) The HD adj. pushrods and shorter tubes would make it easier to adjust them, I got Andrews (still good) but a little headache w/ my big hands and a little more room would be nice.
2)A cam retention kit (dealer) all the gaskets and O-rings AMS Machine or dealer can sell you all you need. You also need new lifters and inner bearings.
3)I bought a bearing puller/install tool, a little sprocket locker tool from Georges Garage.com, Cheapest I found.
Here is the opinion that will likely get the most flak.....LOL
If I was doing 255's ( I did 26H's). I would do comp. releases..Just because I have that kind of luck, if anyone would have issues w/ hard start it would be me and that's why I have 26's from Andrews.
You will be very happy with a cam change.
Mark
#5
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I know there are several threads on this subject. I just wanted to get some feedback from others who have done the same swap. I have a few questions. Could you do your best to answer them? I'd appreciate the help guys. Maybe I can return the favor someday.
I found a set of pristine cams on Craigs list for $135. They will arrive next week. Now for my questions . . .
1. Which adjustable pushrods should I get so I don't have to mess with the heads?
2. What other parts do I need?
3. What tools do I need?
4. I already have a Big Sucker AC and V&H duals. Also have a SERT. I was hoping to avoid a dyno tune afterward. Do you think I can get away without the dyno? Or is that wishful thinking?
5. Any other advice?
I found a set of pristine cams on Craigs list for $135. They will arrive next week. Now for my questions . . .
1. Which adjustable pushrods should I get so I don't have to mess with the heads?
2. What other parts do I need?
3. What tools do I need?
4. I already have a Big Sucker AC and V&H duals. Also have a SERT. I was hoping to avoid a dyno tune afterward. Do you think I can get away without the dyno? Or is that wishful thinking?
5. Any other advice?
Fuelmoto's web site has instructions for changing a cam with pictures. Click on Harley performance then performance cams.
#7
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Thanks for the advice. I checked out the Fuelmoto site. It's always good to see it again. I'm a picture guy. I have the manual but the pictures in it suck. Thanks again.
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#8
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I know there are several threads on this subject. I just wanted to get some feedback from others who have done the same swap. I have a few questions. Could you do your best to answer them? I'd appreciate the help guys. Maybe I can return the favor someday.
I found a set of pristine cams on Craigs list for $135. They will arrive next week. Now for my questions . . .
1. Which adjustable pushrods should I get so I don't have to mess with the heads?
2. What other parts do I need?
3. What tools do I need?
4. I already have a Big Sucker AC and V&H duals. Also have a SERT. I was hoping to avoid a dyno tune afterward. Do you think I can get away without the dyno? Or is that wishful thinking?
5. Any other advice?
I found a set of pristine cams on Craigs list for $135. They will arrive next week. Now for my questions . . .
1. Which adjustable pushrods should I get so I don't have to mess with the heads?
2. What other parts do I need?
3. What tools do I need?
4. I already have a Big Sucker AC and V&H duals. Also have a SERT. I was hoping to avoid a dyno tune afterward. Do you think I can get away without the dyno? Or is that wishful thinking?
5. Any other advice?
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-write-up.html
I had a lot of requests to talk about the tools and parts needed for this project. Here is a list of the tools I believe should be available for this project:
- Lift - You have to rotate the rear wheel and it is a big time saver opposed to other methods.
- HD Service Manual
- A good socket set with 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch socket wrenches
- Torque Wrench for in/lbs and a Torque Wrench for ft/lbs
- 8-12 inch socket extension for the 3/8 socket wrench
- 1/2 inch flex socket - the kind the swivels to any angle - not universal adapter that you put a stock socket on. This is for the exhaust stud bolts
- Snap Clip Pliers - There is only one snap clip but without this tool you will spend way to much time trying to remove and install.
- 1/2 inch and 5/16 inch open end wrench (Two 1/2 inch wrenches helps with the adjustable push rod installation)
- Torx socket kit including a T-27
- Hex socket kit
- Rubber Mallet
- Usual compliment of screwdrivers
- Straight edge ruler - plastic or metal
- Feeler Gauge
- Bearing remover and installer
- Bolt Cutter - If you replace with adjustable push rods
- Blue Loctite
- Red Loctite
- Anti-Seize
- PB Blaster
- Georges Garage or HD Crank/Cam Locking tool
- 20W50 motor oil of your choice
- Black Zip Ties
- Zip Lock Baggies for parts
- Sharpie Permanent Marker to mark the bags
- Georges Garage or Motion Pro Push rod clip remover/installer
- Permatex Copper Gasket Sealer - some like this for exhaust joints
- Copper Brush
- Lucas Assembly Lube
- Box of shop rags
- Plastic Straw
- Hex wrench kit - the "L" shaped variety not the sockets or long shank variety
- Cams - Obviously!
- HD tapered adjustable quick install push rods
- I don't have the part numbers but you will need the three o-rings for the cam plate and oil pump
- Cam cover gasket
- Timken Torrington Bearings - verify you get the right kind for your model year
- Stock exhaust port gaskets - Not the SE variety
- Cam Spacer - No way to know which size until you are doing the project
- TORCA Clamps for the exhaust joints
Last edited by frenchbiker; 04-09-2010 at 11:15 AM.
#9
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1. Which adjustable pushrods should I get so I don't have to mess with the heads?
2. What other parts do I need?
3. What tools do I need?
4. I already have a Big Sucker AC and V&H duals. Also have a SERT. I was hoping to avoid a dyno tune afterward. Do you think I can get away without the dyno? Or is that wishful thinking?
5. Any other advice?
2. What other parts do I need?
3. What tools do I need?
4. I already have a Big Sucker AC and V&H duals. Also have a SERT. I was hoping to avoid a dyno tune afterward. Do you think I can get away without the dyno? Or is that wishful thinking?
5. Any other advice?
1. Any adjustable pushrods should work. Some have reported problems with the lock nuts breaking on the SE version. Andrews and S&S both make adjustables. I have Headquarters version. They all work the same imo.
2. Lifter block gaskets, push rod tube o-rings (3 per tube), oil pump o-rings (3), cam cover gasket, inner cam bearings (torrington b-168's), front cam snap ring, you may need a cam spacer to keep the outer sprockets aligned but your won't know until the cams are in.
3. Above poster nailed it. I have a cam bearing install tool, push rod tube pliers, and the cam sprocket locking tool when you need them.
4. No way you can put those cams in without modifying your MAP. now if you can find someone on the forum willing to share their MAP with similar components, you could get in the ball park
5. Give me a call when you are ready. We could knock it out in half a day easily.
Zach
Last edited by Biggzed; 04-09-2010 at 11:21 AM.
#10
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Here's my $.02 Steve
1. Any adjustable pushrods should work. Some have reported problems with the lock nuts breaking on the SE version. Andrews and S&S both make adjustables. I have Headquarters version. They all work the same imo.
2. Lifter block gaskets, push rod tube o-rings (3 per tube), oil pump o-rings (3), cam cover gasket, inner cam bearings (torrington b-168's), front cam snap ring, you may need a cam spacer to keep the outer sprockets aligned but your won't know until the cams are in.
3. Above poster nailed it. I have a cam bearing install tool, push rod tube pliers, and the cam sprocket locking tool when you need them.
4. No way you can put those cams in without modifying your MAP. now if you can find someone on the forum willing to share their MAP with similar components, you could get in the ball park
5. Give me a call when you are ready. We could knock it out in half a day easily.
Zach
1. Any adjustable pushrods should work. Some have reported problems with the lock nuts breaking on the SE version. Andrews and S&S both make adjustables. I have Headquarters version. They all work the same imo.
2. Lifter block gaskets, push rod tube o-rings (3 per tube), oil pump o-rings (3), cam cover gasket, inner cam bearings (torrington b-168's), front cam snap ring, you may need a cam spacer to keep the outer sprockets aligned but your won't know until the cams are in.
3. Above poster nailed it. I have a cam bearing install tool, push rod tube pliers, and the cam sprocket locking tool when you need them.
4. No way you can put those cams in without modifying your MAP. now if you can find someone on the forum willing to share their MAP with similar components, you could get in the ball park
5. Give me a call when you are ready. We could knock it out in half a day easily.
Zach
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