Primary Cover Bolts - Screwed by Dealer?
#1
Primary Cover Bolts - Screwed by Dealer?
Today I decided to take on the 5k service on my own. I've purchased the Service Manual and all of the required tools to do what I need to do. When I tackled the clutch inspection cover to adjust the clutch, I broke TWO T27 socket heads and still have 3 bolts to go. I've read all kinds of posts about how hard the screws are to remove from the factory, but this cover should have been taken off at the 1k service, which was done by the dealer.
Now I'm wondering if the dealer even bothered to remove the cover and change the fluid as is required at the 1k service. If they had removed it, I'm guessing they would have put the screws back on at or near factory specs, which are 84-108 in-lbs, which should be much easier to take off and certainly wouldn't have broken two torx heads. Am I right in assuming this?
Now I'm wondering if the dealer even bothered to remove the cover and change the fluid as is required at the 1k service. If they had removed it, I'm guessing they would have put the screws back on at or near factory specs, which are 84-108 in-lbs, which should be much easier to take off and certainly wouldn't have broken two torx heads. Am I right in assuming this?
Last edited by DropZone; 04-08-2010 at 03:54 PM.
#2
#3
They should have pulled the derby cover to adjust the clutch. On newer models with the auto primary chain tensioners they would have had to pull the derby cover to put in new primary fluid. What type of T27s are you using. Even using good quality Torx sockets (I have two 3/8" drive Snap-On and one 1/4" drive Matco) I am still replacing one about every 3 weeks because they tend to twist. About the only things I use them on are derby cover bolts, primary chain inspection bolts and air cleaner bolts none of which have high torque values.
#5
i always install the t-27's on the derby cover with anti seize. one mistake i've seen people make is trying to use a t-25 instead of the correct t=27 on the derby screws, rounding out the heads of the screws. i always torque them, as there are only five, no big deal. i've never had an issue with removing the cover. as far as the service guys replacing the derby cover and screws, it sounds like they were in a hurry and not paying attention. and they're supposed to be the pro's with these bikes, go figure.
#7
Every chance I get I'm changing to chrome 1/4" socket head cap screws. At Elliotts the chrome ones were too $ so I polished up some stainless ones. No way of really tellling if they took the cover off or not. If you have to you may need to get them out with an easyout. Don't know if you've already got the broken ones out or not.
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#8
The first one that broke I wrote off to being a piece of crap that came with a screwdriver set. After that broke, I went and bought a craftsman set which they told me was warrantied... good thing too, cuz #2 died when I brought it home and worked on screw #2. I am using a #27, believe me, I don't want to strip these things. *Just to clarify* The tools broke, not the actual bolt heads. THANKFULLY.
The thing is, this really makes me think the bastards at the dealer never changed the fluid or adjusted the clutch cable at the 1k mark. I know it's not something I can prove, but I have a hard time believing that the bolts would be that difficult to get off had they already been cracked open at the 1k service. Just another reason do to the maintenance myself...
The thing is, this really makes me think the bastards at the dealer never changed the fluid or adjusted the clutch cable at the 1k mark. I know it's not something I can prove, but I have a hard time believing that the bolts would be that difficult to get off had they already been cracked open at the 1k service. Just another reason do to the maintenance myself...
#9
#10
Either way, I am glad I have seen this post, I'll be doing my 1000 mile in a few weeks I hope.