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Primary Cover Bolts - Screwed by Dealer?

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  #31  
Old 04-09-2010 | 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ashmarc
My derby socket heads are 1/4-20 x 1/2" (not 5/8")...inspection cover was 1/4-20 x 3/4".......just throwing it out there.
Thanks, I'll have to try this size to see if they work any better.
 
  #32  
Old 04-09-2010 | 06:24 AM
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On a new bike, old bike, whatever... loosen the bolts when the bike is hot. They come right out.

I always change out these with allens. In 30 years of wrenching I've never rounded an allen. I can't see how you can!
I've broken the head off an allen though....another story.

Loosen when hot!

lp
 
  #33  
Old 04-10-2010 | 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by lp
On a new bike, old bike, whatever... loosen the bolts when the bike is hot. They come right out.

I always change out these with allens. In 30 years of wrenching I've never rounded an allen. I can't see how you can!
I've broken the head off an allen though....another story.

Loosen when hot!

lp
Thats VERY HARD to believe! Happens all the time!

If you actually look at a Torx and an allen side by side its very plain to see there is much more surface area for tool bite on a Torx!

But hey, when you strip out an allen head one day know that you can drive a Torx bit into it and back it right out!
 

Last edited by hog-doc; 04-10-2010 at 12:36 AM.
  #34  
Old 04-10-2010 | 07:52 AM
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Way back when I wrenched on my old Yamaha I remember some of the case screws became really difficult to get loose and rounded out easily. I bought an impact driver. Cheap solution put it in reverse with the right size bit and pop it with a hammer, loosens them up and they will come right out.

Lisle impact driver

I don't have one of these but typically Lisle stuff is pretty good and the price is cheap. The one I have is over 25 years old and I don't even know who made it, it still does the trick. Motorcycle case screws are the perfect application for this tool.
 
  #35  
Old 04-10-2010 | 08:01 AM
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They are lock tighted by factory and at delaership service. To get these out easy just hold torx bit socket on bolt and hit with hammer to break loose. To get the stripped out bolts drill in center of bolt just enough to hammer a standard screw driver in and then turn out. Just had the same problem it was aggravating
 
  #36  
Old 04-10-2010 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by hog-doc
Thats VERY HARD to believe! Happens all the time!

If you actually look at a Torx and an allen side by side its very plain to see there is much more surface area for tool bite on a Torx!
Also in 30 years I've never broken an allen (tool) either.
People break torx all the time. Even if your careful and are using the right tool.

On an assembly line I'd prefer Torx, cause thats what they are made for - to resist cam-out during high speed assembly.
But at home....I prefer the old trusty 6 sided allen.

Yeah, this debate will continue on... Least it's not the Health bill!

lp
 
  #37  
Old 04-11-2010 | 09:56 AM
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I still prefer .45 over 9MM.
 
  #38  
Old 04-11-2010 | 11:18 AM
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I had a problem getting one bolt off at the 1k service and the head stripped. If this happens take a small chisel and position it at about 10-o'clock on the bolt head, then tap it downward (CCW) with a hammer. That should get it loose. I swapped mine for chrome Allens from Ace Hardware and haven't had any problem with them.

In 45+ years of wrenching I've broken some Torx bits but never an Allen, and don't recall ever stripping an Allen bolt either. For me Torx has been the more problematic of the two.
 

Last edited by iclick; 04-11-2010 at 11:21 AM.
  #39  
Old 04-11-2010 | 11:48 AM
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Another good read
 
  #40  
Old 04-11-2010 | 12:12 PM
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As riders, not service reps, we encounter our problems out on the road or in our driveways, not in some fully equipped dealer service department.

That's when we need most to be able to twist fasteners reliably and do so with a minimum of tools.

Anytime I encounter a torx fastener that I've yet removed on my scoot, I approach it with caution. From experience I know it most likely will be seized and possibly strip, so I first squirt it with PB Blaster and then tap it hard with hammer to shock it....only then will I attempt to remove it.

Fairly often I'll note that the torx hole seems kind loose and the fastener metal soft...When that happens, I replace it an with allen head piece made of high strength steel. Many times I can get away with stainless, but some fasteners require grade 8 and must be chromed steel for appearance sake. Some fasteners also require locktite but even those I always dab a little anti-seize under the head of the screw so it won't seize.

Now if someone wants to continue to argue that torx fasteners are somehow superior, then please explain why there are so very many allen head fasteners already on your OEM scoot?

Look up torx in the wiki....They explain why they were developed. They were developed to benifit the FACTORY by reducing assembly tool costs due to WEAR....Torx Plus is simply an evolution of that.....Torx fasteners exist only to save the factorys replacement tooling cost when they assemble vehicles....The factory can expect their tool bits to last much longer because the impact area is greatly increased on the assembly tool bit contact surface. But the most critical thing we all must remember is the factory only needs to assemble things ONCE, then shove it out the door.....We, on the otherhand, have to manipulate those fasteners many times thru the life of our scoots. Therefore, learning a little bit about the proper care and feeding of fasteners and also reducing our required road trip tool inventory is in our best interest as owners/riders.
 

Last edited by oinker02; 04-11-2010 at 01:16 PM.
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