Yes. Select and highlight that range, then hit the pg-dn key seven times. That will change all values -7 from where they were. If you aren't happy, try going an additional -3. If you get any hesitation or surging at cruising speeds in 5th or 6th gear, you've gone too far, although some low-speed gurgling/surging won't hurt anything. Some will say this is an imprecise practice, but the bike will run well between 13.5 and 14.6:1 AFR in the cruise range, and that's a pretty wide spread. As fuel is increased mileage decreases and heat increases--and vice versa. Where you put it is really what feels right to you.

Where you don't want to start fooling with AFR's is above the cruise range, around 60% TP and above, especially WOT. You should want best performance in that range and shouldn't alter the values there if you already have a good tune.

 

Clarification? I was under the impression that 2010 started using the smaller heated sensors, I did not get any 02 eliminators with my PCV from FM.

Mark

 

The 2010-11 models don't need the eliminators and thus aren't in the package. I'll PM Sageone and mention that to him, as I didn't notice he had a '10 model.

 

Iclick I have a 2007 ultra bought it used 2 years and 21000 miles ago. Over the winter I put the 255 cams in. The bike came with a SERT that the dealer tuned the bike with, don't know why the guy bought the tuner. I'm thinking about going with the PCV with an auto tune. The bike ran fine, haven't had it out this year yet accept to roll thru the gears to make sure the install was ok. Would I have Jamie ship the PCV with all 0 in the AFR and then start the auto tune and accept the trims after each ride till I started getting closer or would it be better to have the dealer flash the ECM with the orginal harley map and have Jamie send the PCV with a map. I wouldn't think the AFR in the ECM would be much more than a Stage one.

 

Iclick...
I tried your method of re-calibrating the cruise range. I didn't go 7 points as you suggested, so I went down 5 instead. Seemed to work fine.
Then I decided to experiment with maps in each gear. I used the FM map for 1-3rd gear, then in 4th leaned it out in the cruise range by 5%...5th gear was an additional 3%. 6th gear I made it all 1% in cruise range.

I loaded the map and test rode it. It "seems" fine...although I am starting to doubt my method worked. Can you tell me if the maps-per-gear method is viable? In other words, does loading it actually enable that function?
Somehow I thought that was for a different setup...just not sure.

Thanks.

 

IMO, in general terms if you already have a good tuner (e.g. PCV, PV, SERT, SEPST, TTS) you should stick with it. If you have a competent tech in your area and can be assured of a good tune across-the-board and the way you want it, not just at WOT, I would have it tuned with the SERT and be done with it. The downside to this is that unless you have access to the ECM tables with the SERT software you have no control over the tune from that point on. OTOH if you plan on doing future upgrades and/or the human tuners are questionable, I think a PCV-AT would be a very good choice, especially if you like the switch concept.

If you go with the PCV-AT I would ask Jamie to give you the closest map he has, even considering you have a custom tune and he won't have an exact match, then let AT do its work. Since AT won't auto-tune ignition advance you may run into a problem with detonation if the custom tune has implemented any advance over stock, which is likely if the tune is accurate. When you use the advance in the PCV map unchanged you may be overdoing it, so I would try it and be attentive to any audible detonation that may occur. If you hear any I would zero the ignition-advance tables in the PCV software and use the settings already in the custom tune embedded in the ECM with SERT unchanged. You could also do like I do and start zeroed and bump the advance in small increments in the cruise range and at WOT until audible detonation occurs, then back-off 2°.

As for AFRs, the PCV-AT will auto-tune with any map you install, that is as long as the bike will run. Your idea to accept trims frequently is a good idea, and if you want to use a hardware switch you should accept trims frequently using richer target AFRs, then make a final "accept trims" and change to leaner targets. After making those changes to the Target AFR tables you will not accept trims again. You want that rich base map to remain intact for cooler running and have it run in "learning mode" (leaner) when you have the switch positioned for fuel economy.

 

So you went -5% in the cruise range by changing the values in the Fuel Adj. tables, then made further changes based on gear? I thought about using this feature but couldn't figure out a good reason to use it on a street bike. I also don't understand why you'd want to go -5% in 4th (added to the -5% global change), but only -3% in 5th and -1% in 6th. If I was doing this I would go -5% in 5th and 6th and lower in gears 1-4. That said, I can't think of any good reason to use the gear-offset feature in the PCV. I'm open to suggestion, so please describe what you're trying to accomplish. I'm not saying you're wrong, just that I don't understand your reason for using it.

I would just make the changes to the cruise-range and test using that method, as complicating the whole operation with gear-offsets is possibly solving a problem that doesn't exist.

 

My idea was to have the best of both worlds and use the prime cruising range (AFR) for the appropriate gear ranges...typically 4-6...leaving 1-3 as strong accelleration gears.
I did read in the PVC that you must calibrate each gear....I have yet to actually do it though. I think...you get into the "calibrate gears" mode...and then free wheel the bike (on a stand) and just accellerate through the gears. Not sure why or how it works. I plan on trying it out this weekend and I'll report back to the forum (you) how it plays out.

Cheers...

Dex

 

Yes, I subtracted 5 (-5) where you suggested subtract 7 using the Vance & Hines map for my set up. I subtracted 7 (-7) when I used the FM map for my set up which was much richer a map than the V&H map.
They bother worked well.

 

2010+ bikes do come with the smaller O2 sensors. When I bought new pipes for my 2010 FLHX from FuelMoto, it was recommended that I buy the 09 pipes and O2 eliminators just in case I wanted to add the Autotune later on.