Getting rid of the cat on your bike may be the key to reducing the heat. I looked at the map you're running and it looks rich enough to cool it down, but a map can only do so much and I don't think AT will help with the cooling issues compared to what you have now. Give Jamie at Fuel Moto a call and discuss it with him. I suspect the key will be to eliminate the stock pipes and go with a more free-flowing design that eliminates the cat. I would also install an oil cooler, as IMO all TC engines need one and that will help keep peak oil temperatures under control.

If I had an '09 or later bike I would go with the Fuel Moto 2-1-2 or 2-1 pipe, the PCV-AT, AC, and an oil cooler. I would then set-up the switch as per above.

 

I did replace the stock headers with V&H dresser duals what are your thoughts on the V&H fuelpak? I see on their website that they list settings for my setup,,, PC site does not. I am thinking of selling the PC V and going with the fuelpak... your thoughts???

 

The FP may have its niche, but I think moving from a PCV to a FP would be a step down in functionality. IMO all you need is a good map for the PCV. Give Fuel Moto a call even if you didn't buy the PCV from them, as they may be able to help. They don't routinely provide maps for non-customers so don't get your hopes up, but they may still be able to help. If you decide to upgrade to Auto-Tune you should definitely buy from them for the customer-service aspect if nothing else.

Going to Auto-Tune is a solution but this an expensive ($300) option that may not be necessary. It will definitely give you the option of selecting the AFR's you want at any given point in the RPM/TP grid and getting your bike tuned optimally would be a matter of getting the right advise on how to do it. Re-reading the OP in this thread would be a good starting point, then ask questions on points that need clarification.

 

The FP may have its niche as a very basic tuning device (AFR's only), but I think moving from a PCV to a FP would be a major step down in functionality. That's not a put-down of the FP, as it has its design niche and a purpose in the marketplace.

IMO all you need is a good map for the PCV. Give Fuel Moto a call even if you didn't buy the PCV from them, as they may be able to help. They don't routinely provide maps for non-customers so don't get your hopes up, but they may still be able to help. If you decide to upgrade to Auto-Tune you should definitely buy from them for the customer-service aspect if nothing else.

Going to Auto-Tune is a solution but this an expensive ($300) option that may not be necessary. It will definitely give you the option of selecting the AFR's you want at any given point in the RPM/TP grid and getting your bike tuned optimally would be a matter of getting the right advise on how to do it. Re-reading the OP in this thread would be a good starting point, then ask questions on points that need clarification.

 

,,, looking forward to getting my map dialed in,,, no regrets,,, love my sled and the new fishtails are perfect,,,

I haven't talked with the PC folks about my map but I am guessing they would just recommend a dyno... I'll call fuel moto and buy the AT if I don'y get anywhere with a map...

Thanks!!!

 

On another thread about rigging a map switch without Auto-Tune, some of the other respondents wired their ACC switches through a relay to have the LED illuminate. That's easy without AT since you can have either map work with an open or closed switch. With AT, "learning mode" (closed-loop) only works with a closed switch, so here's what I came up with.

I bought a Radio Shack DPDT relay #275-218 ($9), which has two banks of secondary pins (see attached diagram). I have the PCV on one bank connected to Pins 2 & 6. This means when the switch is not on (i.e. current not flowing to the relay coil and LED), those pins are closed and Auto-Tune is in learning mode (closed-loop, lean). When I activate the switch and the LED is on the relay opens Pins 2 & 6 and Auto-Tune switches off (open-loop, rich).

Note that odd-numbered pins work exactly the same as the even, so you can attach two separate devices if you want to. I used a DPDT switch because it leaves the option open to have the same switch activate something else, like maybe an engine or oil-cooler fan by attaching 12V (ignition switched) to Pin 5 and the fan to Pin 3.

Note that "normally closed" means the switch is flowing current in both secondary circuits (Pins 1 & 5 and 2 & 6) when the coil is not activated (switch off). I connected my PCV this way so that the LED is on as a warning when I'm in the open-loop (rich) mode, which is where I normally won't be running. Also note that if you don't ground the black wire on the switch the LED won't illuminate, and the O/R wire must be the 12V source.

 

I love soaking up as much of this stuff as possible. I've been of the notion I had achieved maximum 'bolt-on' power for my bike. While my riding style doesn't require 2 separate maps, the one Jamie provided me with has not only bumped up the 'get up and go' it's also bumped up my mileage from 38 to 45 mpg. Leaning out my ride 'just' for economy just seems like tinkering for the sake of tinkering. It's what makes these things work that really fascinate me the most. Which is probably why I like working on mechanical watches. If anyone comes up with an Autotune for a Rolex let me know.

 

Will someone be willing to post their timing map? I wanted to get an idea of how far of a change can be made and in what areas of the map without having problems. I know each bike is different but Im looking for what others have done before I start the tinkering.

 

iclick,
I have the PCV and a Fuelmoto map and MPGs in the 30's. What mileage could I expect if I tried this on my bike? It seems a bit overwhelming but I'd like to be able to make it further than a sportster before refilling the gas tank.

 

I wouldn't want to say what you might get, but my '07 gets 47-49mpg at a 55-60mph cruise with not much stop-and-go, around 45 at 70mph, and a lousy 37 or so in town. This is with E10 gas, and I've hit 50mpg a few times with real gas. I haven't figured out a way to get the mileage up in town, although I have recently fooled around with leaner ARF's from 20-80% as an experiment. I added 0.2 (leaner) from 2000-3000 rpms but haven't had a chance to check it yet. I can't tell any difference in the way the bike runs since the change.