RK - Oil change - yes? no?
#21
03-24-2010, 11:05 AM
I would change it once per year in the fall prior to storage, but before parking it for the winter ride it long enough to heat it up thoroughly to remove all remnants of water in the oil and exhaust system. Don't start it up again 'til spring or unless you plan on doing a ride long enough to warm it up again. Water is a byproduct of combustion and if the engine is started cold and not allowed to warm-up fully the water stays in the system. It would also be wise to use synthetic oil, as it adheres to metal surfaces better and eases start-up after periods of non-use.
#22
03-24-2010, 06:36 PM
#23
03-24-2010, 07:11 PM
Grand HDF Member
You want to change old oil if you are going to let it sit for awhile because of the acids developed in the old oil. Acid is a by-product of the exhuast gases mixed into the oil. Do this for your lawn equipment as well. I still struggle not running the bike at all because there is also another problem created by letting it sit awhile and that is the crank being pulled down to the bearing. As iclick stated, some oils stick to the engine parts better than others (synthetic), but eventually gravity pulls the crank through the thin layer of oil that separates it from the bearing and you start the motor up those parts touching metal to metal. Now some folks will say that it is better to only start it once that way instead of doing it several times just to circulate the oil. But I personally fire up my bike at least once a month and let it run long and hot. I just feel better that way.
Beary
Beary
#25
03-24-2010, 07:29 PM
Cruiser
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Longwood, Florida, Seminole County, United States of America
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I would normally recommend full synthetic oils, but in your case, 800 miles per year, it's not even worth it.
I'd continue what your doing with minor mods.
Change the Oil out, but use regular Dinosaur Oil. No need to change out the Oil Filter. But also, Dump a Bottle of Stabil Gasoline Stabilizer in your System and go for a long ride, in your case, 10 miles! J/K.
If you can jack up your Bike for the Winter that's good too. To take the stress off the tires. In a few years you might get tire rot.
--Oil Change/Dinosaur Oil, No Oil Filter, Stabil in Gas Tank, Jack up Bike off the Ground. Good to go!
I'd continue what your doing with minor mods.
Change the Oil out, but use regular Dinosaur Oil. No need to change out the Oil Filter. But also, Dump a Bottle of Stabil Gasoline Stabilizer in your System and go for a long ride, in your case, 10 miles! J/K.
If you can jack up your Bike for the Winter that's good too. To take the stress off the tires. In a few years you might get tire rot.
--Oil Change/Dinosaur Oil, No Oil Filter, Stabil in Gas Tank, Jack up Bike off the Ground. Good to go!
I put about 800 miles total in a summer of weekend rides each year - I start the season on fresh oil and filter. In November I put it in a heated garage for the winter. Dealer says I should change engine oil and filter and trans/primary oil before parking - doesn't seem right to have such a short usage of the oil - am I wrong?
#26
03-24-2010, 07:35 PM
Road Master
#27
03-24-2010, 07:41 PM
Maybe dino oil but I still think it's a waste of money. At 800 mile it's unlikely that you had any viscosity breakdown or contamination. As soon as you heat up the engine the condensation will be gone.
As for synthetic, ****, you can run that stuff for 7K whether it's been sitting or not.
Changing syn oil at 3K is simply a waste of money.
As for synthetic, ****, you can run that stuff for 7K whether it's been sitting or not.
Changing syn oil at 3K is simply a waste of money.
#28
03-24-2010, 07:45 PM
Road Warrior
Have you actually seen this happen? Doesn't the additive package in your oil protect and clean the oil to prevent acid damage? I would like to see some picture of this damage if anyone has some. Sounds like an old wifes tale to me. I've seen bikes that have sit for over ten years and when started had no oil related damage, so where is it?.,,
You can believe what you want, and that's fine. I ride my bike year round, so this really isn't a concern for me. But, when many mechanics/oil guys have the same recommendation, I'll play it safe and change my oil at least once a year. If you want to leave oil in your motor for 10 years then fire it up and go, more power to you. Just because you can't see damage with your eyes, that doesn't mean it's not there. That's not to say that there will definitely be damage, but why take the risk? A bike that is ridden 800 miles a year needs the same routine maintenance any car/truck/bike gets and that really should be more often than every 5 or 6 years, IMO. One of the best reasons I never buy used. But, that's just me....
Edit - I just had one of those enlightened internet discussion moments... This bike only sees 800 miles a year, so long term reliability probably isn't even an issue. Doubtful it ever gets very far out of town, so if it breaks down, WTF? Just leave it on the shoulder and go buy a new one. No big deal. Ride on....
Last edited by 07RoadHawg; 03-24-2010 at 07:50 PM.
#29
03-25-2010, 11:43 AM
Have you actually seen this happen? Doesn't the additive package in your oil protect and clean the oil to prevent acid damage? I would like to see some picture of this damage if anyone has some. Sounds like an old wifes tale to me. I've seen bikes that have sit for over ten years and when started had no oil related damage, so where is it?.,,
#30
03-25-2010, 12:28 PM
Yes, I have seen the damage done by acid in oil on several airplane engines. It looks like pitting and while the engine appears to still run fine, it will eventually weaken the parts and cause cracks or failures. Pilots really don't like engine failures. Airplanes are kind of like motorcycles, it is common for them to sit unused for several months.
Beary