Reduced Reach RK handlebars - what needs to be replaced???
#13
03-22-2010 | 06:27 AM
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: Sydney Australia
I put the bike in for it's first service last week and asked the dealer to quote on fitting the RR bars. They came back with a price of A$1700!!! Needless to say I took the bars at A$129 and fitted them myself this weekend.
The job itself was fairly painless. It took me about 2 hours working slowly - I think I could do it again easily in under an hour. As a lot of you said you don't have to replace anything as long as you go with the external switch wiring option. The throttle sensor wiring can still run internally.
A few observations from the job;
1.Overall it was easy to get to the bar clamp through the headlight nacelle, you just need to take your time and work carefully. The order of disassembly is straightforward. You remove the chrome headlight ring by undoing the small phillips head screw at the front 6 o'clock position. Undo the 8 screws holding the headlight in place, disconnect the headlight wiring (squeeze the side of the main globe connector to release), undo the nut holding the top trip in place, slip you hand up into the nacelle and apply friction to the small nut on the inside of the steering lock cover screw while you undo it from above. Depending on where the bike was assembled you can now either lift the cover off exposing the clamp etc, or you may have another couple of screws located under the steering lock flashing. The flashing is plastic and 'pops' off to expose the screws. My dealer was obviously lazy because in my case they didn't exist.
2. When reassembling it is difficult to retain the small nut and washer inside the nacelle that holds the steering lock cover down. I ended up using some plasticine on the end of my finger to hold the nut and washer in place while I got the bolt started.
3. You need to be very careful with when pulling put the throttle sensor. It is easier if you unbolt the bars first and have someone support them while you push the (internal) wiring up through the bar while you pull gently at the sensor end. Make sure you have freed up the wiring harness in the headlight nacelle first! The sensor wire pushes easily back up inside the new bars and the green connector ends up an inch or so exposed which is plently to reconnect.
4. Be very careful when pulling the green connector apart. You should be able to get it about 2" out of the bar end. Push a small flat screwdriver blade gently under the latch and pull apart gently. If you use too much force you will break it. I know this for a fact. If you do break it it is not the end of the world. The ends will still make a postive connection and lock however for safety's sake I also wrapped them tightly in electrical tape to make sure ( I will order a new section of the harness in the next few weeks).
5. Make sure you push the left and right switch wiring right up into the cutaways in the bars before you clamp the brake and clutch lever assemblies back on, otherwise it is very easy to pinch the wiring.
6. You don't need to use the rubber protective sleeves that come with the handle bar kit. I used three short pieces of split plastic conduit (1/2" OD) over the switch and throttle sensor wiring where they can potentially contact the edges of the bar cutouts. This means you don't have to disconnect any part of the of the wiring harness. The conduit is not visible after assembly.
7. The left hand grip is glued on but will break free if you gently twist it backwards and forwards a few times and them slowly work it off the bar. No problems reusing it. I used Superglue (Gorilla in the good ole USA?) when reassembling.
Total cost of job - A$129. Saving over dealer A$1571.
So, do they make a difference? Damn right they do! I am no longer leaning forward, the controls are approx 2" further back and an inch higher due to me being able to roll them up a little more than the standard bars. Took her for a shortish spin afterwards and feel much more comfortable in general and loads more in control at slow speed. Even easier to back up now due to being more upright.
I have some photos of the job but I can't find the camera cable. I will upload them on the weekend once I have time to look around for it.
Hope this helps someone else save some money...
Poolie
The job itself was fairly painless. It took me about 2 hours working slowly - I think I could do it again easily in under an hour. As a lot of you said you don't have to replace anything as long as you go with the external switch wiring option. The throttle sensor wiring can still run internally.
A few observations from the job;
1.Overall it was easy to get to the bar clamp through the headlight nacelle, you just need to take your time and work carefully. The order of disassembly is straightforward. You remove the chrome headlight ring by undoing the small phillips head screw at the front 6 o'clock position. Undo the 8 screws holding the headlight in place, disconnect the headlight wiring (squeeze the side of the main globe connector to release), undo the nut holding the top trip in place, slip you hand up into the nacelle and apply friction to the small nut on the inside of the steering lock cover screw while you undo it from above. Depending on where the bike was assembled you can now either lift the cover off exposing the clamp etc, or you may have another couple of screws located under the steering lock flashing. The flashing is plastic and 'pops' off to expose the screws. My dealer was obviously lazy because in my case they didn't exist.
2. When reassembling it is difficult to retain the small nut and washer inside the nacelle that holds the steering lock cover down. I ended up using some plasticine on the end of my finger to hold the nut and washer in place while I got the bolt started.
3. You need to be very careful with when pulling put the throttle sensor. It is easier if you unbolt the bars first and have someone support them while you push the (internal) wiring up through the bar while you pull gently at the sensor end. Make sure you have freed up the wiring harness in the headlight nacelle first! The sensor wire pushes easily back up inside the new bars and the green connector ends up an inch or so exposed which is plently to reconnect.
4. Be very careful when pulling the green connector apart. You should be able to get it about 2" out of the bar end. Push a small flat screwdriver blade gently under the latch and pull apart gently. If you use too much force you will break it. I know this for a fact. If you do break it it is not the end of the world. The ends will still make a postive connection and lock however for safety's sake I also wrapped them tightly in electrical tape to make sure ( I will order a new section of the harness in the next few weeks).
5. Make sure you push the left and right switch wiring right up into the cutaways in the bars before you clamp the brake and clutch lever assemblies back on, otherwise it is very easy to pinch the wiring.
6. You don't need to use the rubber protective sleeves that come with the handle bar kit. I used three short pieces of split plastic conduit (1/2" OD) over the switch and throttle sensor wiring where they can potentially contact the edges of the bar cutouts. This means you don't have to disconnect any part of the of the wiring harness. The conduit is not visible after assembly.
7. The left hand grip is glued on but will break free if you gently twist it backwards and forwards a few times and them slowly work it off the bar. No problems reusing it. I used Superglue (Gorilla in the good ole USA?) when reassembling.
Total cost of job - A$129. Saving over dealer A$1571.
So, do they make a difference? Damn right they do! I am no longer leaning forward, the controls are approx 2" further back and an inch higher due to me being able to roll them up a little more than the standard bars. Took her for a shortish spin afterwards and feel much more comfortable in general and loads more in control at slow speed. Even easier to back up now due to being more upright.
I have some photos of the job but I can't find the camera cable. I will upload them on the weekend once I have time to look around for it.
Hope this helps someone else save some money...
Poolie
#14
04-29-2011 | 09:19 PM
Thanks for the heads up Poolie. I replaced my stock bars with the RR bars today and used your tips. The job took about two hours, and I was able to breeze through it without any problems. The Green plug mentioned in Poolies post is about 4 inches from the grip end on the throttle position sensor, it sits at about the first bend going down to the handlebar mounts. I slid a very small flat tip screwdriver straight in the clip side of the connector and it released without lifting against the tab. Overall, I definitely saved a butt load of cash, and I didn't get taken by the dealership for two unneeded brake lines, the harness extender kit, or even the glue on left grip. Those of you looking for a comfortable bar, at a fair price, I highly recommend this DIY upgrade ! The bike feels extremely more comfortable!
Last edited by randace; 04-29-2011 at 11:11 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
