Help... Clutch slipping
#11
#12
never had a problem with synthetic ATF. used it for 69K miles in my 01 RK and have 5K on my 09 RK. the ATF is formulated for clutches. Type F will clear up slippage though. Racers using GM transmissions use full fills of Type F. the friction modifiers help with clutch lockup. I have added Type F to many slipping transmissions with success.
#13
Redline ain't causeing the slipage. It's a good syn. With a new clutch you may have gotten a false seat before turning back the screw. This happens with a worn clutch, but I think this could happen easier with new plates. If you've wasted a quart of redline, no big deal. Standard pri. oil may make the plates seem to grab better, but it doesn't mean the clutch is adjusted right.
#14
I can't imagine that the Redline Primary oil is causing the slippage, but I also wouldn't use any high-tech oil in the primary. Ultracla$$ic's recommendation to use ATF should work fine, and if you want the best clutch engagement use Type F.
I've used Castrol GTX 20w50 (fossil engine oil) and have no issues with the stock clutch and SE255 cams, and when I had to R&R a tranny bearing I was able to check everything in the primary for wear at around 32k miles. Everything looked good from the chain and tensioners to the clutches, and all parts were re-used. Thus, I can say that this oil provides ample protection and also provides enough friction for the clutch to operate properly.
I used HD Primary Oil at first, then switched to $1/qt. 10w40 generic fossil engine oil from Wal-Mart in my old RK, and at 65k I inspected the tensioner and clutch disks to find everything in good shape. I replaced the disks anyway but at 120k the replacements are still in there. I can't see using anything but an inexpensive fossil engine oil or ATF in the primary.
I've used Castrol GTX 20w50 (fossil engine oil) and have no issues with the stock clutch and SE255 cams, and when I had to R&R a tranny bearing I was able to check everything in the primary for wear at around 32k miles. Everything looked good from the chain and tensioners to the clutches, and all parts were re-used. Thus, I can say that this oil provides ample protection and also provides enough friction for the clutch to operate properly.
I used HD Primary Oil at first, then switched to $1/qt. 10w40 generic fossil engine oil from Wal-Mart in my old RK, and at 65k I inspected the tensioner and clutch disks to find everything in good shape. I replaced the disks anyway but at 120k the replacements are still in there. I can't see using anything but an inexpensive fossil engine oil or ATF in the primary.
#16
Shop carefully for ATF fluid formulated for wet clutches(Vavoline is one).....Then adjust the clutch release inside the derby when rather warm....from there adjust the cable to achieve a full 1/8" slack at the clutch clamp.
Many here might argue my suggestions, so just try it after you tried all else.......Good time to install the Screamin Eagle spring too.
Many here might argue my suggestions, so just try it after you tried all else.......Good time to install the Screamin Eagle spring too.
#17
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: The Internet (& Dyer, Indiana)
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Thats strange. You are suppose to have a slight amount of slack. Like 1/8 or something gap between the perch and ferule. I cant see changing the oil being the problem, something has to be off somewhere. Maybe the ***** inside the ramp fell out of the grove causing the inner ramp to be cocked? Not sure.
Nothing wrong with your fluid!
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