itdan, here, https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...no-charts.html. That took me all of a minute and a half to find.

 

I live in an area (Philadelphia) where there are ALOT of indy's and alot of Harleys, some good & some bad. There rates are about 1/2 of what the HD service rates are; but unfortunately some of them are butchers. Most recently there was a local sport bike indy that decided he was going to hang a sign that said, "We specialize in V-Twins". Personally, I wouldn't even think about allowing them to mount a tire on any of my scoots, but others had them perfom cam & 103 upgrade work on thier scoots while still under warranty.

Long story mad short...it was a disaster and the local dealer was flooded with warranty claims.

 

What kind of warranty claims?

 

Just overall poor running/performance issues...needless to say, the sport bike indy with the V-Twin sign is no longer in business.

 

This link has the dyno charts for the 103 engine
http://fuelmotousa.com/cams.htm

 

Thanks. Got the info from Mike. I do use the searches extensively and bought my "kit" from Fuel Moto, so I am familiar with them. I knew Deputy Mike would have the specific info, so I just asked him. Not trying to clog up the forum with useless posts (like this one).

Back to your topic Deputy.

Lt Dan (with an L)

 

DeputyMike,
Get the Harley manual, follow the instructions in it, follow the instructions that come with the CAMS and Adjustable push rods. Just my 2 cents, I can't find it but read it here on the forum I believe, to go 4.5 turns on the push rods. Also get the tool to pull the bearings.
Last but not least, get someone to help you put the pushrods in, makes it easier to have someone turning the back wheel (plugs removed) to check where the lifters are when you tighten them.
I did it and if I can get it done, you should be able to do. Take your time, dont rush it. What the cam chain tensioners screws, they will stip on you if not careful

Mac

 

Thanks Mac! I'm still nervous as hell, and am so @#$%^#$%^ obsessive compulsive I'll probably drive myself nuts studying about this all week before the parts get here! LOL!

 

Cam change is a piece of cake with the late model cam plate setup; no gears or bearing to press on/off. Pulling the exhaust, bags and maybe the tank take more time than changing the cams.

The first decision you need to make is whether or not you want to change to adjustable pushrods. The stockers will work, no mystery on adjustment, the adjustor nuts will not come loose but using them will require a little more work, i.e. removing the rocker covers and loosening the rocker arm support plates so you can remove/intall the pushrods from the top. This will require removing the tank. Not a big deal, the trade off is a little more wrenching and time versus dealing with adjustable pushrods. Adjusting the pushrods takes time but not as much time as the additional wrenching to remove/install pushrods from the top. I have had the adjustors come loose on two sets of SE Quick Install pushrods and will not use them any more. If this is a one time upgrade, consider sticking with the stock pushrods. If you think you will be in the cam chest in six months, use adjustables. The new Smith Brother Quick Install units are the best currently available.

New bike, low miles, so no need to change lifters.

You will need a tool to remove and install innner cam bearings to the Torrington B168s?. This guy will sell you a single tool that will remove and install for about $90.

beattygw@sbcglobal.net

No other special tools are required; you can manage with a decent set of hand tools. You will good inch pound and foot pound torque wrenches. Oil pump alignment pins are handy but not necessary. You can rotate the rear wheel while slowly tightening the fasteners and the pump will self align. The cam gear locking tool is handy but not necessary; you can hold the crank with the trans in 1st gear and hold the brake.

Check out Harley Hog's website to prepare; the work is on an '04 so it isn't specifically applicable to your model but you get the idea.

http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/1550/bbonline.htm

Service manual is a must. Read, perform an operation, read again and check your work before going on to the next operation. Change the scavenge port o-ring where the oil pump neck fits in to the scavenge port in the engine case. Not tricky but some forget the o-ring or pinch the o-ring and create a "sumping" situation that will require re-opening the cam chest to fix.

Oh yeah, get come ear plugs for those noisy Woods cams.

 

Well, goes to show a Deputy is braver than a Trooper.. But maybe not as smart Good Luck and enjoy