Yo Sandcrab, glad you got them out without any further drama. The oil will drain hot or cold but cold will take longer. For anyone that is somewhat new to doing their own service the torque wrench is your best friend and those derby screws best friend is anti-seize. Use both and the screws will always come out easy.
You can change to stainless screws but anti-seize is still necessary to stop electrolytic corrosion that leads to galling of the threads. Electrolytic corrosion occurs when two or more unlike metals come in contact with each other (aluminum outer primary and steel screws). Also, ATF is a better choice for the primary and it's cheaper too.

 

I think we have carried this one far enough and so will sign off after saying that I replaced the primary oil with 38 oz of Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 oil and decided to do the tranny at the same time so drained it and put in 1 qt of Mobil 1 75W-90 gear oil.

Raining again so won't be able to test the clutch or tranny until it dries up. Thanks again for all the help.

 

I agree! Interesting the service manual for 09 says use blue loctite on them. Don't think that would be a good idea.

 

I use blue locktite always .. never had a problem .. the manual is not wrong. The important thing is the torque 100 in lbs. The locktite will prevent corrosion. I always use a 3/8's ratchet with a Cornwell bit to break it loose.
I use blue locktite on EVERYTHING, unless the manual calls for something else, and use torque wrenches every time.

 

My original 1000 mile was done at dealer.
I've been doing service on my own ever since.

Mine we tight also....Used a speed handle and rocked it back and forth, took a few minutes to break loose, But saved all screws..

I should put the hex head SS ...one of these days

 

Derby cover bolts have a sequence that begins with the top bolt and continues by tightening every other bolt (clockwise or counterclockwise, probably doesn't matter). Torque spec is 84 to 108 inch lbs.

The proper torque specification for the primary oil drain bolt is 14 to 21 ft lbs.

These are the specs given for my '09 softail Rocker.

 

i'm guessing you are trying to remove the derby cover rather than the primary cover. if it's round, it's the derby cover. be sure to use a T-27 and don't expect a T-25 to suffice. that's how many of the screws get rounded out in the head. i use anti sneeze compound on the threads when replacing the derby cover because it ensures that nothing will seize up in the threads and will allow easy removal for the next time. torque them properly in the star pattern like you would lug nuts on a five bolt car wheel. easy as pie.

 

If the unfortunate thing happens and the bolt head becomes stripped, just get a sharp drill bit (slightly bigger that the threaded portion of the bolt, NOT the head) and a good drill. Drill out the bolt head until it pops loose, then remove the derby cover and the bolt now without pressure should come right out. Don't ask me how I know this trick. Oh, be sure to replace the soft OEM bolts with chrome stronger bolts during the first change.

 

If you don't have an inch/lbs torque wrench, in a pinch you could use your foot/lbs torque wrench and divide by 12.
96 in/lbs = 8 ft/lbs

 

Got to be careful with those screws or you'll be having to remove a broken screw.