Primary oil change
#21
01-24-2010, 12:56 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
The sad part is, if the cover has never been removed since assembly at HD not only did they not change the fluid at your 1K service but the set up procedure for the bike calls for the cover to be removed for initial set up. I did a new bike set up (out of the crate) on a '09 Street Glide that had NO oil in the primary. That's why HD wants the dealer to inspect ALL fluids during set up.
#22
01-24-2010, 01:34 PM
Bought my 09 Ultra in July, had the 1000 mile check done and had all synthetics put in. Today, at 3816 miles, I changed engine oil after a ride, and decided to take off the primary cover. The fasteners are so damn tight, can't get them to unloosen. Questions:
a. Is it better to remove the cover when the engine is hot or cold?
b. Should the screws be so tight after only 2800 miles?
c. Should I use an impact drill with the torx driver to remove them or take back to dealer and tell them to remove them.
Do you think some dealers don't remove the screws or change the oil on the first change or am I paranoid?
I can't believe the dealer would install the fasteners so tight that they don't come out.
a. Is it better to remove the cover when the engine is hot or cold?
b. Should the screws be so tight after only 2800 miles?
c. Should I use an impact drill with the torx driver to remove them or take back to dealer and tell them to remove them.
Do you think some dealers don't remove the screws or change the oil on the first change or am I paranoid?
I can't believe the dealer would install the fasteners so tight that they don't come out.
Remove when cold
Use an impact driver for stubborn bolts
Only use a good quality T27 torx bit
When tightening forget the torque values. I tighten until the bolt is slightly snug and then 1/4 turn. After that walk away and you will be good to go next time you need to remove the derby cover.
#23
01-24-2010, 01:55 PM
Road Warrior
+1 on this, you also have to assume they are going to be hard to get out. If you don't and you "limp" wrist the pressure on the torq screw, it will strip very easy. I suspect that half the problems are due to one of these 2 or both.
#24
01-24-2010, 06:19 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
#25
01-24-2010, 07:47 PM
Tourer
Join Date: Jan 2009
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[quote=Ronp42;6140724]
You could be right. I'm no metallurgist. I do know that stainless is normally softer that plated steel and depending on the alloy, can be very soft. I use anti seize on the stock screws so I may never have a problem. I dislike torx screws like some people dislike mustard.
One of the things on my "round toit" list is to replace the factory screws with stainless allen head screws.[/quote
I would do some checking before doing that. Stainless bolts are not stronger. They are used when corrosion is present. In fact, stainless will gauld and give problems. I would use the standard metal plated bolts that harley provides and torque them to specs. Some mechanics think they are so good, they can tighten by feel and get it close. Maybe some can, but it's better to use a torque wrench. Use the sequence in the manual as well.
I would do some checking before doing that. Stainless bolts are not stronger. They are used when corrosion is present. In fact, stainless will gauld and give problems. I would use the standard metal plated bolts that harley provides and torque them to specs. Some mechanics think they are so good, they can tighten by feel and get it close. Maybe some can, but it's better to use a torque wrench. Use the sequence in the manual as well.
#26
01-25-2010, 09:16 AM
Cold worked
Went out this am when the bike was cold and with a good bit on one of those sliding T handles so I could get even pressure on both sides, I gave it a hard turn and it popped loose. Went to next one and one by one they came out without stripping, so I guess cold is better. However now I can't drain the primary because it says to do so when hot. Also my Ultra has a rubber 'O' instead of a gasket like my Deuce had. I have a spare gasket but not an 'O' ring. So tomorrow will head up to the stealer to get one for my part locker in case it leaks. Thanks for all the help.
#27
01-25-2010, 09:46 AM
Went out this am when the bike was cold and with a good bit on one of those sliding T handles so I could get even pressure on both sides, I gave it a hard turn and it popped loose. Went to next one and one by one they came out without stripping, so I guess cold is better. However now I can't drain the primary because it says to do so when hot. Also my Ultra has a rubber 'O' instead of a gasket like my Deuce had. I have a spare gasket but not an 'O' ring. So tomorrow will head up to the stealer to get one for my part locker in case it leaks. Thanks for all the help.
#28
01-25-2010, 09:47 AM
Went out this am when the bike was cold and with a good bit on one of those sliding T handles so I could get even pressure on both sides, I gave it a hard turn and it popped loose. Went to next one and one by one they came out without stripping, so I guess cold is better. However now I can't drain the primary because it says to do so when hot. Also my Ultra has a rubber 'O' instead of a gasket like my Deuce had. I have a spare gasket but not an 'O' ring. So tomorrow will head up to the stealer to get one for my part locker in case it leaks. Thanks for all the help.
Last edited by gmc; 01-25-2010 at 09:54 AM.
#29
01-25-2010, 09:52 AM
Last edited by Ronp42; 01-25-2010 at 09:54 AM.
#30
01-25-2010, 10:05 AM
Road Master
found this out the first time also. had 1 screw so damn tight I stripped it out...luckily I didn't drain the fluid. took to dealer and they used an impact, then put another screw in it for me.
now, I just crack them but just to get them to move, then warm the bike up, loosen them some more to make sure they move, then drain.
and yes +1 on o-rings!
now, I just crack them but just to get them to move, then warm the bike up, loosen them some more to make sure they move, then drain.
and yes +1 on o-rings!