[quote=Lass7711;6140496]One of the things on my "round toit" list is to replace the factory screws with stainless allen head screws.[/quote

I would do some checking before doing that. Stainless bolts are not stronger. They are used when corrosion is present. In fact, stainless will gauld and give problems. I would use the standard metal plated bolts that harley provides and torque them to specs. Some mechanics think they are so good, they can tighten by feel and get it close. Maybe some can, but it's better to use a torque wrench. Use the sequence in the manual as well.

 

Just finished doing mine and had no problems with them being to tight, I will tell you though I paid for all synthetics on my 1000 mile service and was told that they did put synthetic in the primary, when I drained the primary I got regular oil, not synthetic. Pisses me off that I paid as much as I did and then they porked me.

 

go to harbor freight, link below, and buy yourself an impact driver. works like a charm.






http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...iver&Submit=Go

 

Ha Ha ...sorry Krazy but that really made me laugh. Kind of had a mental picture of you standing there with a bucket of oil trying to figure out what the hell to do next

 

[QUOTE=Ronp42;6140724]stainless is the way to go,first thing i did was to take off every sh!tty looking zink plated bolt and screw. if you torque correctly you will have no problems what so ever with quality stainless fasteners. i found these to be the best stainless fasteners around.

http://alloyboltz.com/catalog/index....3b3201415a6ad7

 

Bought the manual when I bought the Ultra in July, so the sequence and torque are not the issue. I did not drain the primary oil, I just wanted to look inside the cover to see how high the fluid was on the clutch plates, since it only has 2800 miles since the 1000 mile service.

I just could not remove the screws, and above all else, I did not want to strip any of the screws and have to ez them out. I just have a sneaky feeling they either didn't change the fluid, hence did not remove the screws which are factory tightened, or overtorqued them if they did drain. OBTW the oil filter was on real tight also which surprised me.

Today I will try to tap one while appling pressure.

 

You must be psychic cuz that's just what it was like

 

had the same problem with one of the derby cover screws on my 10 SG the first time I changed primary fluid, broke the head off the torx screw. had to put some heat on it and grab the stud that was left with visegrips. Put it back together with anti-sieze and allen screws, I hate those torx screws...

 

You are better off using an impact driver as apposed to an impact gun on those small fasteners.good luck

 

A 3/8" air impact has worked perfectly for 6 years removing derby cover screws. A quality bit makes all the difference, I use snap on and matco bits and have only stripped ONE torx bolt in over 5000 services! Thats 25,000 derby cover screws and only ONE stripped!!!