Gigantor, just a few thoughts.

First, you seem to be set on getting the largest numbers you can from a 95 build. Why? I'm not being an a**, but I honestly think this is something for you to answer for yourself. Why do you want those numbers - is it for bragging rights or does it fit your riding style?

Second, do you want rideability or streetability? Are you going to be touring? If so, you want something that rides well, can run on cheap gas if necessary and is reliable. You might want to ask the Faribault guys if the build you are contemplating will give you that.

It is easy to get caught up on the numbers game versus, what you are happy with for riding. Just make sure you've thought that thru before setting your course. I've heard good things about the Faribault HD but personally have not had any work done by them.

Oh, one more thing, I didn't see compression releases on your build. At 10.5: 1, I would be putting them in. Either manual or automatic. Also, welding the flywheel might be a good idea at that torque.

Good luck.

 

S&S has a 97 in. kit they're marketing. Haven't looked into it yet, I'm sure it's not cheap, most S&S stuff isn't, but they usually make great stuff. Check that out. 2 more cubes if nothing else.

 

Gigantor, a lot of the guys here are basically telling you the same thing. 1. Don't chase numbers on a piece of paper. 2. Look around at some of the companies who have put together good parts that complement each other. I believe that a H.D. Dealer told you his build would yield 105 H.P. and 110 T.Q. and that the boys up at Faribault saw a [ similar ] build of theirs generate 105 H.P. and 116 T.Q. There is no way either of these places would guarantee those results. I would take them with a grain of salt. So if you look at a H.Q. or TMANs build that does not promise those kind of numbers, I would not discount them. I would call these places, you will be surprised how long they will talk to you trying to figure out the kind of build that will fit you and the type of Riding that you do most. The only thing I personally think is strange is that they both included a Wood Cam in the Build, most dealers don't do that, especially with some one who describes himself as not knowing Squat about engines. Good Luck on your upgrade. Jim.

 

I bought my o5 FLTRI brand new for cash. Before I rode it at all (5th HD I have owned) I had the 95" kit - SE HTCC heads & pistons - adjustable moly pushrode - SE 257 cams - Rinehart true duals - race tuner - Baker DD6.
Have a bit over 10k miles, runs GREAT! Would do it over again anytime. Over 100FPT & over 100HP. Have never had a single problem at all.
But I am changing to a Vance & Hines Pro Pipe 2-1 and heavy breather.

As I did this when the bike was new, at the dealer and all SE parts the bike retained its full warranty (at least my dealer does that).

Not saying this is the best way to go or is right for you, but it has worked great for me!!

 

now this was the kind of feedback i was looking for! im not chasing numbers so much as trying to benchmark a build. this is my first time doing an engine upgrade and am going by the info ive read here in terms of products and the builders ifo in terms of putting it together. both non t-man builds used woods cams without any solicitation from me, is that bad? is there a downsize to woods cams?

i dont ride my bikes hard or put many miles on them. i do want a build that is reliable but still can haul *** at a moments notice. i suppose maybe i need to make it absolutely clear with the builder that reliability is priority 1 as i dont have the tech skill to fiddle with it.

the build does come with manual compression releases, i just forgot to list it.

thanks again for the great feedback. i need to think more about the compression because i tend to lug the hell out of my engine..comes from driving truck i think!..take care.

 

I would have my 88 jugs bored to 95 CI instead of buying new ones,

I would consider Branch-O'keefe headwork,

I would go with a Feuling oil pump, and Feuling cam plate,

I would go with gear driven cams,

I would go with Andrews cams, 21 or 26,

I would not go above 10:1 CR for engine longevity,

I did the above, with the exception of Branch-O'keefe cams instead of Andrews, as Branch did all the machine work and supplied the 9.5:1 Cr pistons. I let Branch assemble components to work together,

I am happy as hell with my engine,

 

Gigantor,

I'm in MN and will be taking my bike down to Faribault to have Jason do the the work. I've only heard great things about his work and nothing bad. I'm not upgrading my motor (yet) to the extent you are, but will have Jason dyno tuning it and checking on a few other things.

CADguy

 

Just a couple of thoughts for you;
1. Have your existing jugs bored instead of buying new one's as they are already set and tempered for your bike.
2. Either buy a build kit or have someone truly knowledgeable design a build for you, rather than trying to plug in well known parts that sound good. Not everything works well with everything else.
3. HP is overrated, IMO

Have fun

 

Gigantor, I think your last post shows you are now heading in the right direction. A couple of things ; 1. Wood's Cams, there is nothing wrong with Wood's Cams. They just ar not usually the first cam a H.D. Dealer would suggest, and most Wood's Cams like High Compression. IF the upgrades you were quoted have compression releases included, that means high compression, YOU CAN'T LUG AN ENGINE WITH HIGH COMPRESSION. If I were you, I would talk to the person who is putting the parts together for this upgrade and tell them Reliability is #1 and you want good low to mid-range TQ. Jim.

 

I will ad a couple more comments about my set up for you - my bike is 10.5:1 with manual compression releases. IMOP this is not a deterimental compression number to engine longevity provided fluids are changed on a regularly scheduled basis. I run Amsoil 20/50 and Red line in the transmission.
What the definition of riding hard is a pretty difficult to define as a statement.
I will say my set up likes 25000RPM and not much lower when going slow. Say 25 to 30 MPH. It really comes alive at right about 2800RPM on up to 5500RPM.
I tend to go from a slow roll to riding speed with about 1/2 + throttle the majority of the time. And run up to 55 or 75 about as fast as I can get there. I love the exhilaration of the torque and sound!!
I do always run premium, but I have never ever been to a station that did not sell it in Michigan.
Listen to a mechanic that has build experience under his belt. I wont offer suggestions simply my experience with my bikes. And I will say "just cams and slip ons may be ok for some - but I like to ride in front!! And I do.