This is a work in process, so work with me.
'08 ultra with abs and have a power commander V already stuffed under the seat. Detatch stuff installed

First picture with tour-pak and seat off and all the wires exposed:


Second all the wires hanging off the back of the bike

Third all coiled up

Fourth with the seat on.

 

The pictures are great! Thanks for the time. Bill1nat

 

I did something a little different, rather than disconnecting wires in the speaker pods and tour pack; I bought 2 of the 6 way and one of the 3 way connectors pictured in the link. I added the connectors as near as possible to the battery area. When the tp is off, I have about 18" less wire to deal with.

My passenger intercom and CB antenna are just coiled out of the way (uncut). I don't use them even when the TP is on.

One other thing I made for when the tp is off is a dummy plug to cover the exposed connections under the seat.

Side note: my shop builds wiring harness so the special crimping pliers are at my disposal.

Connector
http://www.laddinc.com/shared/datash...s%20Manual.pdf
Tool
http://www.laddinc.com/shared/datash...5-071-0000.pdf

 

I like that idea, that would make it a lot easier to connect and disconnect.

Thanks for the idea.

Where did you pick up the connectors?

Bob

 

I got mine at International Electric Corpus Christi.
For your area, go to Laddinc.com and do a dealer search

 

bdp, IMO, has done it a great way by installing Deutsch industrial quick disconnects (which is what HD uses for the OEM connectors for the speakers/passenger controls) and significantly reducing the wire lengths tucked under the seat.

I'm working on a different wiring project (using a Hog Tunes amp to power speakers in the lower fairings with the Harman Kardon head unit in four channel mode), but ordered at my local HD store the same Deutsch connector housing, pins and sockets HD uses for the tour pak connectors. No doubt the HD store's prices are likely higher than a Deutsch distributor (though there may be minimum purchase requirements), but here are the HD part nos. and list prices:

1. 74106-98BK Pin Housing, Black 6-way, $8.50;
2. 74146-98 Pin Lock, 6-way, $.55;
3. 74190-98 Pin Terminal, $.50;
4. 74116-98 Socket Housing, Black 6-way, $9.10;
5. 74156-98 Socket Lock, 6-way, $.45; and,
6. 74191-98 Socket Terminal, $.50.

The pin housing and socket housing are available in black (BK suffix) and gray which may be worth considering to avoid mismatching the right side/left side when reconnecting the wiring when the tour pak is installed; alternatively, use the same color housings but use the pin housing on one side (right) and a socket housing (left side) for the wires from the tour pak. You then install the pin housing for the wires from the front of the bike for the left side, and a socket housing for the wires from the front of the bike for the right side. Using the pin and socket housings in this way would mean the connections could be made only one way--the right way.

This link may be useful for crimping information. The crimp tool is available from on-line vendors for about $30 and has been fine for my purposes:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.../matenlok.html

I bought the BCT-1 for $25 plus a reasonable amount for shipping from these folks:

http://www.greatplainselectronics.co...cts.asp?cat=53

Another crimp tool that will work, but isn't as easy to use as the BCT-1, is the Philmore WS-26 for $9.99 at Fry's Electronics.

I usually buy a couple extra pins and sockets just in case I make a bad crimp or other mistake and need to redo something. At $.50 ea., having some extra is cheap job interruption insurance. The appendix in the back of the HD Service Manuals has excellent information on how to assemble and disassemble the various connectors, as well as a listing showing the brand (Deutsch, Multilock, etc.) used for each connector.

Good luck with your projects.

Carl

Edit: Here's another vendor for the Deutsch connectors/pins/sockets:

http://www.deutschconnector.com/prod...onnectors.html

I haven't used them, but they will crimp and assemble the connectors for you if you don't want to do the crimping yourself.

 

I just unplugged everything, tucked all the wires under the seat. Don't really care about the radio or CB. I might go ahead and put the hidden antennas in the fairing. That sounds like a good idea.

 

pingman,

Those prices listed aren't far from what I paid, and I only had to buy the connectors, as I had the pins in stock from a previous project. Looking back, I never thought about going to HD for the parts.

Typical example: Qty 1 of a deutsch connector from Detroit Diesel with Detroit part number $20, I can get the same item from Ladd for about 2 bucks if I buy in bulk.

I have all of the different crimp tools and if I remember correctly, the exact tool for those terminals is the HDT-48 ($265) although the ones you list may work just fine.

Tool
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/1609

 

bdp, those crimp tools the pros use are great, but waaay too expensive for me. The Philmore WS26 worked serviceably (though some dressing of the crimps was necessary) doing a bunch of Deutsch crimps when I was redoing my police handlebar wiring to conform to the civilian bike wiring, adding the Base Radio Connector to my police bike's interconnect harness, etc..

I later found and purchased the BCT-1 which works much better than the WS26. It does the insualtor crimp and conductor crimp separately, but very satisfactorily with almost no dressing/modifying of the crimp needed. Works well on AMP and Molex crimps also. Not as handy as a really good tool that can do both crimps simultaneously, but okay for my needs.

Nice job on your quick disconnects for the tour pak wiring. It's exactly how I was going to do my buddy's Ultra until he decided he wanted to leave the tour pak permanently mounted. We swap bikes when he wants to ride an EG without a tour pak on the bike.

 

Just wanted to thank Carl for listing the parts and respective numbers for this mod. I really appreciate it. I've always just coiled up the wires and tucked them nicely under the seat but I'm going to do it RIGHT and make quick disconnects in an attempt to preserve the integrity of my wiring when I take the bike to the Streetglide look. Also would like to than bdp for his contribution as well.

Thanks.