I forgot to compliment you (Nice run)!

Not sure where you saw the redline before delivery at, but that is not what they do at the factory. They run it up somewhat, but not near redline. I'm still searching my puter for an article I had saved regarding that subject. Will post it when I find it.

WOT runs on rings that have not been seated properly is a very bad thing.
It can scar you cylinder walls and put weld specs in your piston ring grooves.

I seriously believe that your tuner put some break in miles while on the dyno. What did your odometer say when you picked up the bike?

 

I think people put too much into making sure a motor is broken in, I rode for team honda in the 70's, we broke a motor in on the track, look at race cars, you replace a motor between runs, guess what, there is about 10 minutes of off frame dyno run and 0.00 actual drive miles, todays rings seat virtually immediately, back in the 60's with cheap low qualty carbon rings and low quality oil rings, you might have had a problem, the other thing that cracks me up is switching to synthetic oil.... oh, you cannot switch to synthetic till you hit 5000 miles ???????????? WHY???? Screaming Eagle motors come with Synthetic from day one, high end cars, guess what they all come with synthetic oil in the crankcase... even regular car motors are coming with synthetic blends... guess why, it holds up better wear and tare is reduced, them is reduced causing less friction and less wear...

 

I ride all my bikes the same way on day one as I ride them the rest of their lives...in other words I don't lug them, mainly. Spool 'em up and let them have their head. WOT at 2000 RPM in sixth gear is pure evil abuse on your motor, EVEN IF IT PULLS IT OFF WITHOUT A WHIMPER. When you do this, your motor is thinking to itself, "Gee, I wish my rider had more sense than a fencepost." If you do that with any regularity, your motor WILL contemplate suicide and may actually pull the trigger....BTW, you should be able to seat the rings in about 5 minutes and you don't have to go 130 mph to do it.

 

Considering that he did not have a race scheduled for the next day,..... What kind of harm can possibly come from letting it break in before redlining it? LOL

I don't get all the need to rush your bike to redline for no real reason, other than you just don't give a chit. You have massive friction going on creating all kinds of heat.
Racers have something to gain by getting the motor in for the next round. If they tear it up, it's nothing to them. Not so to the guy who puts his personal ride thru that punishment (for no legit reason).

bTW: Rings ain't the only part of that motor influenced by break in.

 

Thanks, as it was a good dyno run. Will post the chart later once scanned.

I visited the York factory several years ago with a good friend who works in the bike business. I was impressed by what I saw.

My bike had 2 miles at delivery. 22 miles at pickup. The tuner rode the bike after installing the exhaust. I took it for a few miles too and ran it through the rev range in each gear, light load. Engine was warm when dyno ran.

I am not concerned about having damaged the engine, as I have had dyno runs from new with all 5 Harley's owned (HD of Dallas and HD of Memphis). Lots of miles and no problems.

I do still believe that the biggest problem is the lugging of an engine, constant speed, and babying the motor by keeping it at low rpms isn't great. Since most HDs don't have tachs, this is probably a common occurence.

That said, these air-cooled motors are a lot more reliable and tolerant than we give credit for. I'm no mechanic.

Karl

 

Maybe this can add some understanding to the "100, 500, 1000, 5000, etc mile break-in" myths.
In the old days machine tolerances were no where near what it is today and required a "wear-to-fit" break-in mentality to keep excessive heat from melting moving parts together....rings being one of those moving parts.

Now we have much more precise tolerances and far better lubricants, so the only moving parts left to "wear in" are the rings.

That said, it is excessive ring heat that ruins an otherwise good break-in.
Since most riders do not carefully monitor their engine temperatures, they cannot be held responsible for break-in procedure. In other words they are breaking in their bike without knowing if the rings are overheated or not during break-in.

Overheated rings usually show up miles later in the form of oil consumption and, very possibly, measurable loss in power.

A new bike with a stock engine, is much more tolerant to excessive break-in heat than a big-inch high compression builds that builds heat much faster than a stocker.

Years ago we would put a break-in map (hopefully not too lean or rich anywhere) in a new build and have the customer ride it for between 500-1000mi then return for a dyno tune. We noticed some customers who complained of oil usage had ring damage obviously caused by excessive heat probably due to improper break-in procedure, most of which was done at high ambient temps usually over 85 deg and ridden on long trips.

The advantage to dyno break-in is complete control of engine temps, rpms, and loads used during the first 20 miles which we consider minimum mileage for rings to properly break-in.

Since we have been doing dyno break-ins the number of issues caused by improper break-in has dropped to virtually nil. We have done over a 100 of builds since from mild to wild using the dyno to break-in the rings.

I personally like the idea of synthetics used for break-in especially applied to big inch, high heat applications.

Hoping this is taken in the spirit in which it was intended,
Bob
PS - AFAIK there is nothing but rings in a modern engine/build that requires breaking in.

 

I have noticed there have been a couple questions about our equipment and procedures. I'd like take this opportunity to clear the air.

Q: What Dyno system do we use?
A: We have a Dynojet 250i and use the latest version of Winpep 7.

Q: What gear is used for evaluation of power?
A: That depends on the engine's ability to pull whatever gear is 1:1 throug the tranny. As explained in an earlier post, this is the ratio that eliminates the most drivetrain parasitic drag.

Q: What correction factor is used?
A: We use SAE corrected as default simply because it provides the best correction for temperature, altitude, and baro pressure. While STD and uncorrected will provide higher numbers most of the time, we feel it is used solely to make the numbers higher disregarding the utility and value for comparison purposes.

Bob
PS - Thanks for the kind words and support from those who know me and to those who do not, please afford me the opportunity to apologize if I offended anyone with my answers/posts.

 

Bob,

Not to hijack but how do you feel about the 30mph 3rd gear roll-on to WOT x10 with breaking in a new top-end build......ie...seating the rings?

 

Read this,

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I actually do the "on the dyno" series of runs on the street in 2nd gear, gets a good pull down and you dont have to go at such a high MPH.

 

Doc

I'm actually a believer now that I've tried it. When I did my big bore I thought "what the heck? If I tear it up, I'll just rebuild it".....so I tried the 3rd gear WOT runs x10 and I could actually FEEL the power building with each run. It was amazing. I'm sold, just wanted to know how you guys felt about it. Thanks!