Lowering my front end
#1
Lowering my front end
About 4mos ago I put some SG shocks on the rear of my RG to get it lower,since I am vertically challenged,and now I want to lower the front. I could use some suggestions on the best and simplest way to do this. Let me know what you guys think. I would like to get anywhere from 1" to 2" lower. Any info would really help as I will be doing the work myself. Thanks.
#4
I used progressive drop ins. they are easy enough to install. the catch is removing the entire fairing and front end (depending how crafty you are). Its a big toll on the wallet if you let them do it. If you have more time than money, the parts will cost about $110 and your labor is free.
#6
#7
What you need to know about lowering
When you drop (shorten the length of the forks) the front end in every way mentioned above, you have degraded your ride horribly. What you are doing is shortening the available stroke. This is achieved by the following methods:
Race Tech: Uses longer top out springs thus raising the piston on the Seat Pipe/Damper Tube.
Progressive/the Company: Uses multiple top out springs. You can guess the ride quality.
HD: Uses a shortened Seat Pipe/Damper Tube (example 09 HD Drop Kit (2009 ~ Current) 54564-09 MSRP US $149.95
('06-'08 Touring) 54628-06 MSRP US $99.95
and included a set of stiffer springs to compensate for the available shorter stroke. The Top-Out Springs are the same as the same model/year and remain the same and are not changed.
I never suggest lowering any bike because the ground clearance decreases, lean angle demises, and using the methods above, the ride quality is horrendous making for a very uncomfortable ride.
It would only stand to reason if a lowered bike is needed; you must lower the suspension components until the parts have enough clearance to work ie: fender not hitting the bottom of the triple tree et. Al. When modifying anything you should always know what you are doing and measure first prior to cutting.
I received measurements for a wheel/tire, fender w/clearance after dropping it onto the tire, than measuring full maximum OEM stroke, than calculating the shortest the suspension can be before hitting the light bar (if applicable) with a ¼” of clearance. That measurement is (varies with tire diameter) with the given tire including tire growth.
I first cut the fork tubes (cut tube(s) on top, OEM on bottom).
Cut the sliders the corresponding same distance to suite the job. Just make a fixture, make a program, true the sliders to the slider bore, than cut the sliders duplicating the race keeper and spring clip keeper.
I assembled the forks. The one on the left is OEM and the right is shortened to my target length. Both have the same OEM travel/stroke and no difference in ride quality while going straight.
Race Tech: Uses longer top out springs thus raising the piston on the Seat Pipe/Damper Tube.
Progressive/the Company: Uses multiple top out springs. You can guess the ride quality.
HD: Uses a shortened Seat Pipe/Damper Tube (example 09 HD Drop Kit (2009 ~ Current) 54564-09 MSRP US $149.95
('06-'08 Touring) 54628-06 MSRP US $99.95
and included a set of stiffer springs to compensate for the available shorter stroke. The Top-Out Springs are the same as the same model/year and remain the same and are not changed.
- The Top-Out Springs is 0.90” long and collapses to 0.611”/stroke of 0.289”.
- The dampening tubes (PN#: 46422-09) (LOA) on 2009 is 7.251” /stroke: 4.434”.
- The new shortened kit Seat Pipe LOA: 6.551”/Stroke 3.734”.
I never suggest lowering any bike because the ground clearance decreases, lean angle demises, and using the methods above, the ride quality is horrendous making for a very uncomfortable ride.
It would only stand to reason if a lowered bike is needed; you must lower the suspension components until the parts have enough clearance to work ie: fender not hitting the bottom of the triple tree et. Al. When modifying anything you should always know what you are doing and measure first prior to cutting.
I received measurements for a wheel/tire, fender w/clearance after dropping it onto the tire, than measuring full maximum OEM stroke, than calculating the shortest the suspension can be before hitting the light bar (if applicable) with a ¼” of clearance. That measurement is (varies with tire diameter) with the given tire including tire growth.
I first cut the fork tubes (cut tube(s) on top, OEM on bottom).
Cut the sliders the corresponding same distance to suite the job. Just make a fixture, make a program, true the sliders to the slider bore, than cut the sliders duplicating the race keeper and spring clip keeper.
I assembled the forks. The one on the left is OEM and the right is shortened to my target length. Both have the same OEM travel/stroke and no difference in ride quality while going straight.
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#8
huh? i dont know what he is talking about......but i put a 21" wheel on the front of my bike and a 17 on the back. Steering is off now and everyone i talked to said lowering the front with the lowering kit from HD will put it back to the way it felt when it was stock. Santa gave me the HD lowering kit and i plan to install this winter along with new fork bells
#9
Legendchrome is right about the lean angles. I bought a 2002 Fatboy that had been lowered 2 inches front & rear. I was riding a stock height 1993 Fatboy at the time so when I left the dealership on the 02' I was used to stock. It dragged the frame & floorboards so quick every time I leaned. I never got used to it plus I'm 6' 4" tall so I put the front back up to stock and left the back lowered. Loved it after that... That's my 2 cents worth. Hope it helps...
#10