It certainly couldn't hurt to take that extra step. I used some Royal Purple Nitro 50 racing oil I had lying around for lubing all the parts, thinking if it's good enough for a AA-fuel dragster it should be good for an assembly lube.

Yep, it's there, but I used blue since I was out of red at the time and a wrench friend told me red wasn't necessary anywhere for that job. Anyway, there's no way mine had red on them from the factory, as the bolts were almost loose and were very easy--IMO too easy--to remove.

Another good idea.

By the time I was at that point in the job I had at least one loiterer hanging around at any given time, so I employed whoever was there for the job of holding the brake pedal down. I agree the tool would make it easier, but I was trying to see how cheap I could do the job without sacrificing quality. Cost-cutting is one of my favorite hobbies, but after doing the job I thought of even more ways.

I don't recall you mentioning the cam-install kit, but you might've. Did you buy it or piece-out the parts you need. It needs to be said that the $65 kit is a waste of money, and you'll only need a few parts from the kit, which has parts for Evos on up including seven bearings, none of which you'll use. I bought the kit and wish I hadn't, so I ended up giving the remaining parts (most of the kit) to a wrench friend to use.

You've just made a damn good impression of one here!

 

Fascinating write-up. Thanks for the effort as this is a project I'm planning on in the next year.

 

The dots line up when at TDC on the front cyl. I placed the marked straw in the spark plug hole to confirm that.

 

I read somewhere, I think it was the Andrews site, that it was best to line-up the dots before disassembly. Then when it's all put back together everything should be in the right position before the oil-pump-centering procedure. That's the way I did it.

 

You're joking right?

lp

 

Very nice write-up on a cam change .. the best by far on the forum .. thanks!!

 

Okay, I think I'm stuck on something easy here. Can you guys please help me out?

The adjustable pushrods are in. I made sure the front cylinder was at TDC, installed the adjustable pushrods, and adjusted them with 2.5 turns. After letting the lifters bleed down, I did the same on the rear cylinder. With the rear cylinder at TDC, the front intake pushrod has some up/down play in it now. Is this right, or did I miss something?

Also, when reinstalling the pushrod covers does anyone have a trick to compressing that spring loaded part so the top piece can be popped in without making a mess of my fingers?

Thanks!

 

good stuff

 

The lifters need to be at the lowest point. TDC has to be on compression stroke.


I use a small flat blade screw driver under the bottom edge of the top pushrod cover, then force that bottom edge to slide across that screwdriver until it snaps into place. Make sure that top oring is seated good and that you removed the old oring first. (Two orings won't even allow the cover to snap into place). Don't ask me how I know that. LOL

 

I can answer this part. Just use a screwdriver and one of the cylinder fins as leverage to push down on the lower cover then slip the upper cover piece in.

On my old Pan I had to adjust my pushrods all the time.