PCV with 2 maps AGAIN
#31
#33
Actually I'm trying to understand why you want or need to run two different maps - one leaner than the other as I understand it. If the reason is to improve gas mileage then what difference are you looking at? How many more mpg's will running a second, 'leaner' map give you? If you're talking 1 or 2 mpg then it hardly seems worth all the bother.
Keep in mind that I've changed mostly 5-15% TP and tapered it a bit at 2% (14.2) and 20-40% (14.2-13.8). Above that I'm running the same AFR's as in Jamie's original map (13.2 @ 60% and 13.0 @ 80-100%). Thus, if you're heavy on the throttle you'll be outside the good-mileage range and you won't see as much mileage improvement, but if I hold it at 55mph with little speed variance I can get 50 mpg (a bit less in winter and when running gasohol). Lately 46-47mpg is about as good as I can get in cool weather with this gasohol everyone is selling around here. OTOH it's been dipping down to 37mpg in city riding with numerous starts and stops.
Regarding city driving, I've only recently set the start-up fuel to -7% and 120°. That means that it will subtract 7% from the fuel table when the head temp is 120° or less. I also have Auto-Tune enabling itself at 120°, so this covers only the warm-up period. These bikes tend to run rich while warming up, and this has worked well so far with no hesitation or other issues, but I haven't checked if there's a mileage difference yet. I may try -10% if this shows promise.
Last edited by iclick; 02-07-2010 at 11:26 AM.
#35
#36
This recommendation is for an '07 and earlier, and may not work as well for later models. Jamie would be the one to consult on that, but he doesn't like running as lean as I do and will likely make more conservative recommendations. If I had an '08-'10 model I would set the cruise range to zeros and take a ride, then adjust upward if necessary, not the more conservative approach that I outlined above.
I think you can also add some ignition advance with TBW bikes, but I couldn't do that with the stock cams on my '07. With the SE255 cams I have been running 1-3° added advance in the cruise range with no detonation, contrary to what I would've though possible. More advance without detonation should increase mileage and cooling, though marginally.
#37
After reading this thread I've been thinking about experimenting with a second map. I''ve spent most of the day trying to figure out where to put a switch since I don't want to use the ACC switch. I have a stupid question. Since you run two wires to the PC V to be able to switch between two maps, could you just put a quick connect splice and connect them together for one map and disconnect them for the other map. If this would work, when they are disconnected would you have to worry about an uninsullated end touching metal and grounding out. (I assume the wires going to the PC V do not carry any current). If this would work I could just run the wires to an inconspicious location and just have the ends connected or not connected based on which map I wanted to usel
#38
Note that the LED light won't work since there is no 12V current used. No big deal, as if it is down (normally on) AT is enabled, up (shown) is open-loop.
Dynojet makes a map switch you can buy that fits 7/8" bars. That's too small for the 1" handlebars on FLH bikes, but it does fit the saddlebag guards, and that's where I had it installed on my SG when I was using a PCIII and multifunction hub. If fit neatly and almost invisibly between the bike and saddlebag-guard bag:
OTOH it is a ripoff at $35 with the bracket, but Radio Shack has a good selection of cheap on-off switches. With those you'll need to find a place to mount it, but you could drill a hole in the side of the switch panel (EG only) if you don't have room for a switch on the panel itself. HD makes an auxillary switch panel that fits near the right or left handlebar switch housing. That's a good though not the cheapest idea that wouldn't require drilling into something like many other switches would.
I have a stupid question. Since you run two wires to the PC V to be able to switch between two maps, could you just put a quick connect splice and connect them together for one map and disconnect them for the other map.
If this would work, when they are disconnected would you have to worry about an uninsullated end touching metal and grounding out. (I assume the wires going to the PC V do not carry any current).
If you're creative you can find some place to mount a switch. I made a small bracket for a makeshift garage-door opener on my old RK and mounted it on the frame just above the starter. It was out of the way and I could use it by just reaching down.
Last edited by iclick; 02-08-2010 at 05:37 PM.
#39
Iclick,
First let me congragulate you on your win yesterday. As far as being elegant, I'm planning on going to Daytona and plan on contacting Fuel Moto to see if they can provide suggestions to change my map for riding in traffic on Main Street. I'll just tuck the wires out of the way till I get to Daytona, then when I get there I'll hang them out in front of the seat so I can just reach down and either connect or disconnect them when I get to Main Street.
First let me congragulate you on your win yesterday. As far as being elegant, I'm planning on going to Daytona and plan on contacting Fuel Moto to see if they can provide suggestions to change my map for riding in traffic on Main Street. I'll just tuck the wires out of the way till I get to Daytona, then when I get there I'll hang them out in front of the seat so I can just reach down and either connect or disconnect them when I get to Main Street.