I ordered my PCV from Jamie last week and spoke to him about this. I wanted the capability to have a power tune and a mileage tune. He told me his the tune he loads makes great power and mileage and there was no real need for it on my application.

 

Would 2 maps be benefit if you were changeing baffels in exhaust back and forth, mild for touring and agressive for around town/

 

I would say that with my bike it is more like 4-5 mpg for highway mileage, less so for city, but I am running near-stock AFR's in the cruise range (14.5-14.6) in the leaner map, which many may not want to do. I've also just recently richened the cruise range of my base (richer) map to 13.5 since I'm only going to use it when the bike needs to cool down. I ran 14.7 with my stock cams and it ran fine, but the new cams need a bit more fuel to run smoothly. I was getting an occasional blip or sputter when I had it set to 14.7.

Keep in mind that I've changed mostly 5-15% TP and tapered it a bit at 2% (14.2) and 20-40% (14.2-13.8). Above that I'm running the same AFR's as in Jamie's original map (13.2 @ 60% and 13.0 @ 80-100%). Thus, if you're heavy on the throttle you'll be outside the good-mileage range and you won't see as much mileage improvement, but if I hold it at 55mph with little speed variance I can get 50 mpg (a bit less in winter and when running gasohol). Lately 46-47mpg is about as good as I can get in cool weather with this gasohol everyone is selling around here. OTOH it's been dipping down to 37mpg in city riding with numerous starts and stops.

Regarding city driving, I've only recently set the start-up fuel to -7% and 120°. That means that it will subtract 7% from the fuel table when the head temp is 120° or less. I also have Auto-Tune enabling itself at 120°, so this covers only the warm-up period. These bikes tend to run rich while warming up, and this has worked well so far with no hesitation or other issues, but I haven't checked if there's a mileage difference yet. I may try -10% if this shows promise.

 

iclick, good info. Thanks for your reply. I'm just getting started with the PCV (not here yet) so this is all good stuff to know.

 

Well, I can't change the baffles without destroying the baffling material, so I won't be doing that. After I installed Fuel Moto's quiet baffles for the Jackpots I saw little change in my trim tables, which means AT wasn't altering the map noticeably after the baffle change. Thus, if you have a PCV with no AT there would be no need for a map change going from the standard to quiet baffles, and in my case even if there was a change AT would compensate like it would for anything else you would change.

 

Making changes like I've described to a PCV without Auto-Tune isn't as precise an operation as with AT. You will have only a base fuel map with no Target AFR tables to work with, so the values in that base map will need to be reduced on a trial-and-error basis. I think a good conservative starting point is cutting the values in half for 5-15% TP and 2-3k RPMs, then keep cutting until you start to notice excessive heat (like stock), detonation, or hesitation. I had my values at zero or even negatives in the cruise range with the stock cams, and it ran well with no heating problems with the oil-cooler installed. I never ran the PCV without AT after the cam conversion, so I don't know how far I could've gone with my current setup.

This recommendation is for an '07 and earlier, and may not work as well for later models. Jamie would be the one to consult on that, but he doesn't like running as lean as I do and will likely make more conservative recommendations. If I had an '08-'10 model I would set the cruise range to zeros and take a ride, then adjust upward if necessary, not the more conservative approach that I outlined above.

I think you can also add some ignition advance with TBW bikes, but I couldn't do that with the stock cams on my '07. With the SE255 cams I have been running 1-3° added advance in the cruise range with no detonation, contrary to what I would've though possible. More advance without detonation should increase mileage and cooling, though marginally.

 

After reading this thread I've been thinking about experimenting with a second map. I''ve spent most of the day trying to figure out where to put a switch since I don't want to use the ACC switch. I have a stupid question. Since you run two wires to the PC V to be able to switch between two maps, could you just put a quick connect splice and connect them together for one map and disconnect them for the other map. If this would work, when they are disconnected would you have to worry about an uninsullated end touching metal and grounding out. (I assume the wires going to the PC V do not carry any current). If this would work I could just run the wires to an inconspicious location and just have the ends connected or not connected based on which map I wanted to usel

 

What model bike do you have? If it an EG and not an Ultra, you could add another ACC switch to the panel. Here's mine, the map switch being second from the left. The far-left switch is a momentary switch for my makeshift garage-door opener.



Note that the LED light won't work since there is no 12V current used. No big deal, as if it is down (normally on) AT is enabled, up (shown) is open-loop.

Dynojet makes a map switch you can buy that fits 7/8" bars. That's too small for the 1" handlebars on FLH bikes, but it does fit the saddlebag guards, and that's where I had it installed on my SG when I was using a PCIII and multifunction hub. If fit neatly and almost invisibly between the bike and saddlebag-guard bag:



OTOH it is a ripoff at $35 with the bracket, but Radio Shack has a good selection of cheap on-off switches. With those you'll need to find a place to mount it, but you could drill a hole in the side of the switch panel (EG only) if you don't have room for a switch on the panel itself. HD makes an auxillary switch panel that fits near the right or left handlebar switch housing. That's a good though not the cheapest idea that wouldn't require drilling into something like many other switches would.

That would work but would not be easy to switch while riding. I think the best idea for the switch is to be able to toggle on-the-fly when the need arises.

No current and no problem if only one pole touches ground (frame, etc.). OTOH if both touch ground you would have a completed circuit just like the two wires being connected. I would not think this is a very elegant idea but it would work.

If you're creative you can find some place to mount a switch. I made a small bracket for a makeshift garage-door opener on my old RK and mounted it on the frame just above the starter. It was out of the way and I could use it by just reaching down.

 

Iclick,

First let me congragulate you on your win yesterday. As far as being elegant, I'm planning on going to Daytona and plan on contacting Fuel Moto to see if they can provide suggestions to change my map for riding in traffic on Main Street. I'll just tuck the wires out of the way till I get to Daytona, then when I get there I'll hang them out in front of the seat so I can just reach down and either connect or disconnect them when I get to Main Street.

 

Harleyman1340 I posted a pick of my $3 Radio Shack mounted switch back on post#5.