Belt Question, Please??
#1
Belt/Alignment/Vibration Question ??
I have been having a vibration issue and have done numerous things to try to lessen the vibs. My last change was a Glide-Pro Motor Mount and I can tell you that it's the closest thing to my original as far as mounts go. I highly recommend it.
But.......... Starting from the rear, I decided I'd try my own alignment. I noticed that after my last tire change, they must have not checked the shaft for equal distance from the pivot shaft, and you could see a gap in front of the right side fixed bolt. So after checking distance, sure enough, it needed to be moved a little forward. Done. Equal on both sides.
((Oddly enough, for a long time I've felt like my bike was crab walking to the right, but I can take my hands off the bars adn nothing ever happened. Straight as an arrow.))
But now when I roll my bike back out of the garage, the belt moves over to the right side and rubs the tire hard enough to leave marks along the left side white wall. Go forward and it moves back to the left side and no rub. I raised the back of the bike back up off the ground and to confirm this. When riding it isn't a problem, but I'm now wondering why. I'll asume that the tech installing the tire had this issue and that's why he moved the shaft backwards on the right side to elimenate the rub.
So what to do is my question.
HELP?!?!?!?
But.......... Starting from the rear, I decided I'd try my own alignment. I noticed that after my last tire change, they must have not checked the shaft for equal distance from the pivot shaft, and you could see a gap in front of the right side fixed bolt. So after checking distance, sure enough, it needed to be moved a little forward. Done. Equal on both sides.
((Oddly enough, for a long time I've felt like my bike was crab walking to the right, but I can take my hands off the bars adn nothing ever happened. Straight as an arrow.))
But now when I roll my bike back out of the garage, the belt moves over to the right side and rubs the tire hard enough to leave marks along the left side white wall. Go forward and it moves back to the left side and no rub. I raised the back of the bike back up off the ground and to confirm this. When riding it isn't a problem, but I'm now wondering why. I'll asume that the tech installing the tire had this issue and that's why he moved the shaft backwards on the right side to elimenate the rub.
So what to do is my question.
HELP?!?!?!?
Last edited by Yachtman; 11-20-2009 at 02:41 PM.
#2
I had that same problem with the belt rubbing the tire when I rolled the wheel backwards. I checked the alignment like the service manual said to and all was good. So awhile back I started getting a little chirp when I deceled and checked the belt..loose. After tightening up the belt it doesn't move over and rub the tire anymore. Check your belt tension and check alignment from the swing arm pivot to your axle.
#4
#5
Thanks everyone.
I did forget one item. I went up a size to a 150 in the rear last tire change and I think that's part of the culprit.
I just finished my alignment, best as I can with my eye. The pivot point to axle measurement is spot on now, and I also straightened the motor left to right by checking level and plumb on the rear wheel. After raising the rear off the ground and leveling the bike using the frame under the seat and behind the tank as a level point (as per my butt and a level!), I found that the rear tire/disc brake was out of plumb. I was shockingly surprised how much I had to move the top of the motor to the right to get the tire/disc plumb. I thought I'd run out of threads on the upper heim joint. Then I had to move the bottom over a little and recentered the new mount.
Now I'm going to clean up myself and go for a ride.
I'll let you know, but if anyone else has some input, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks again.
I did forget one item. I went up a size to a 150 in the rear last tire change and I think that's part of the culprit.
I just finished my alignment, best as I can with my eye. The pivot point to axle measurement is spot on now, and I also straightened the motor left to right by checking level and plumb on the rear wheel. After raising the rear off the ground and leveling the bike using the frame under the seat and behind the tank as a level point (as per my butt and a level!), I found that the rear tire/disc brake was out of plumb. I was shockingly surprised how much I had to move the top of the motor to the right to get the tire/disc plumb. I thought I'd run out of threads on the upper heim joint. Then I had to move the bottom over a little and recentered the new mount.
Now I'm going to clean up myself and go for a ride.
I'll let you know, but if anyone else has some input, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks again.
Last edited by Yachtman; 11-18-2009 at 03:11 PM.
#7
Well now I have another question. I took it for a ride and it was better but my left side saddlebag is rattleing louder than ever.
But......... As I put it back on the lift and releveled it so the top frame was level, I stood at the back to think about the bag ratttle. I looked under and thought...... I wonder if the frame is level on top and under the bottom and sure enough the upper and lower frame rails are not parallel with each other.
So on a 8-9 year old bike would anyone worry. And the bigger question is.... do I do the alignment off the bottom rails or the top rails.
Damn this is wacked out!
But......... As I put it back on the lift and releveled it so the top frame was level, I stood at the back to think about the bag ratttle. I looked under and thought...... I wonder if the frame is level on top and under the bottom and sure enough the upper and lower frame rails are not parallel with each other.
So on a 8-9 year old bike would anyone worry. And the bigger question is.... do I do the alignment off the bottom rails or the top rails.
Damn this is wacked out!
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#10
I'm not sure about your alignment procedure. The method I use requires a wheel vice for the front tire/wheel. Clamp the tire/wheel in the vice & use a magnetic level on the front rotor to verify you have it level. Then use a long straight edge to verify alignment of the rear wheel per the shop manual.
The frame won't necessarily be level either on the top or bottom. It's bent to meet the mounting needs of the motor/transmission.
The frame won't necessarily be level either on the top or bottom. It's bent to meet the mounting needs of the motor/transmission.