Blow by setups..... Pics please.
#61
I agree Kaua and stated in the first post up there concerning this that many folks are running engine oils in the primary. I had to do that once several years ago on a long trip when I had a bad leak on the inspection cover gasket of an EVO. I was like...bleeding a quart every couple-hundred miles and got down to filling it with the cheapest oil I could find at convenience stores until I got to a stealership to get a new gasket. Many folks already use a good grade of motor oil (less friction inhibitors) and ATF as well in the primary. I haven't ran the MOCO fluids in my primaries for years now.
Consider this though....that stuff you find in your catch-can, or dripping from the filter....came out of your motor. So...that's what you have lubricating your engine. It's oil vapor and lots of parts within that engine are lubricated with this very same oil vapor.
Consider this though....that stuff you find in your catch-can, or dripping from the filter....came out of your motor. So...that's what you have lubricating your engine. It's oil vapor and lots of parts within that engine are lubricated with this very same oil vapor.
Last edited by 0734; 11-22-2010 at 07:52 PM.
#62
#63
For you guys running the vent tube down to the lower frame tube, are you getting any sticky film on the drive belt, rear wheel/hub, brake disc or on the tire? The vapor, occasional drip and whatever else comes out won't have the mass to drop straight down with 70 mph wind going straight back toward all the stuff mounted to the swing arm. A catch can or the factory set up seem to be the only sensible options to me. Having a fine oil spray blowing back on everything just seems to re-locate the clean up area.
#64
I don't have pics of it since it's all pretty much hidden the way I did it, but I'll explain my setup.
I have the Doherty Powerpacc with Powervents, I ran rubber fuel line from each Powervent to a "T" and then ran 1 rubber fuel line from there. I put it thru the cylinders, down in back of the shifter linkage, down in back of the primary, and zip tied the end to the frame rail under the primary.
Unless you look close, you can't even see it.......and it works great.
Steve
I have the Doherty Powerpacc with Powervents, I ran rubber fuel line from each Powervent to a "T" and then ran 1 rubber fuel line from there. I put it thru the cylinders, down in back of the shifter linkage, down in back of the primary, and zip tied the end to the frame rail under the primary.
Unless you look close, you can't even see it.......and it works great.
Steve
#65
I thought I would post this for others incase they want to mod their 08 and up. I did this on my 2012 Ultra.
List of items.
2 barbed hose fittings, 1/4 inch ID with 1/8 Pipe threaded end
1- 1/8 Pipe tap
3 ft of 1/4 inch ID fuel line
1 T fitting 1/4 inch ID
I package of Q-Bond to fill breather holes in backing plate
New backing plate gasket and orings
Pretty simple job, Mark the backing plate with a sharpie to get your holes lined up so when you take it off you have an idea where to drill them
I lined mine up with the internal breather holes in the backing plate so that they are right where the breather holes are in the breather bolts.
Did a center punch and drilled a 1/8 hole then a 5/16 inch hole.
Took my time and tapped with the 1/8th pipe tap.
Cleaned everything up with brake cleaner
Applied Q-Bond from the Auto store combined with the aluminum powder which makes a permenant welde without welding
Put everything together, routed my hoses and presto done in less than 2 hrs taking my sweet time.
Any questions just ask
List of items.
2 barbed hose fittings, 1/4 inch ID with 1/8 Pipe threaded end
1- 1/8 Pipe tap
3 ft of 1/4 inch ID fuel line
1 T fitting 1/4 inch ID
I package of Q-Bond to fill breather holes in backing plate
New backing plate gasket and orings
Pretty simple job, Mark the backing plate with a sharpie to get your holes lined up so when you take it off you have an idea where to drill them
I lined mine up with the internal breather holes in the backing plate so that they are right where the breather holes are in the breather bolts.
Did a center punch and drilled a 1/8 hole then a 5/16 inch hole.
Took my time and tapped with the 1/8th pipe tap.
Cleaned everything up with brake cleaner
Applied Q-Bond from the Auto store combined with the aluminum powder which makes a permenant welde without welding
Put everything together, routed my hoses and presto done in less than 2 hrs taking my sweet time.
Any questions just ask
#66
I just finished rerouting my breathers last week. Wasnt crazy about the Doherty style, as I would think oil would eventually drip on the crankcase. Wasn't crazy about running an a tube all the way back down under the trans and dumping oil on the ground.
I decided to try something somewhat unconventional. This design is very similiar to the Doherty style, however the positioning of the filter is such that it dangles in an area where, if it does drip oil, it is most likely will not end up on the bike. Also, I can monitor the filter and twist it around as the bottom starts to get saturated.
Not to mention, I think it looks pretty cool.
I decided to try something somewhat unconventional. This design is very similiar to the Doherty style, however the positioning of the filter is such that it dangles in an area where, if it does drip oil, it is most likely will not end up on the bike. Also, I can monitor the filter and twist it around as the bottom starts to get saturated.
Not to mention, I think it looks pretty cool.
#67
I would like to ask a question to those of you that have been experimenting with an alternative drain line. I read where most come off a T fitting and run a single hose through the heads behind the shift linkage and zip tie it along the frame rail either under the primary or all the way back past the belt. I see another route that looks better to me and wonder if anyone has already tried it. If you come off the T fitting and run it behind the exhaust header pipe you can then run it just behind the oil fill cap and zip tie to some other small hoses that point straight to the ground. One of those small hoses is some type of drain hose because it is open on the end. I'm a solo rider and had already removed my passenger floor boards which kind of made this open area with the small hoses more visible. Unless I'm missing something it looks like an ideal spot for the breather hose. Using a soft tape measure it looks like 3 ft of 3/8 hose will be more than enough. Any thoughts and comments are appreciated. Thanks.
#68
It's like the Simon and Garfunkel song....."50-Ways To Leave Your Lover".
Seriously though....it's a shame we even have to fool with it and there seems to be no rhyme-or-reason in most cases. I've seen them do nothing at all and then we have those that throw-up all over the place. Get rid of it the best way you can and as long as you have a breather system that "breaths", sitck it in a place where it doesn't vent on the passenger or the bike. I've owned 15 versions of both the EVO and the TC. Some were much worse than others no matter what head-mods, the oil level, or anyones kit I installed. BTW....this is not something isolated to Harley. Some metric examples have similar issues.
Seriously though....it's a shame we even have to fool with it and there seems to be no rhyme-or-reason in most cases. I've seen them do nothing at all and then we have those that throw-up all over the place. Get rid of it the best way you can and as long as you have a breather system that "breaths", sitck it in a place where it doesn't vent on the passenger or the bike. I've owned 15 versions of both the EVO and the TC. Some were much worse than others no matter what head-mods, the oil level, or anyones kit I installed. BTW....this is not something isolated to Harley. Some metric examples have similar issues.
#69
A member of this forum did a mod similar to Dawg with barbed 1/4" fittings which I am seriously considering:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...estions-2.html
The question I have for a mod like this is, for a 1/4-18 fitting the tap/die chart shows a 7/16 hole before you tap the hole....is this correct?
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...estions-2.html
The question I have for a mod like this is, for a 1/4-18 fitting the tap/die chart shows a 7/16 hole before you tap the hole....is this correct?
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