Tips & tricks Road Glide fairing (pictures)
#192
Appreciate the OP and all who contributed. '07 w/35K and have been experiencing problems with rattles shakes and just general slopiness of the fairing. Was lined up to upgrade my stereo and speakers and wanted to take care of everything while I had the outer off. Spent a few hours combing this forum to see what people have done.
I went with the Autozone door trim suggested by a poster in this thread, I bought two 27" packs at 4.99 ea. While cleaning the snot off the inner I let the trim sit in the sun. They went on flawlessly and look great. Reason I bought two packs is each side is approx 25.5" leaving only two 1.5" peices. I also replaced the top piece under the windshield. I did try running the entire length of the top and down to meet the side trims, but that made the outer shell fit too tight and I was concerned it would have caused too much stress on the fairing screws/plastic anchors. So I just replaced the OEM length.
I had the two cuts on the inside of the fairing. Only one of them was about halfway through so I didn't want to take the chance of added vibration by cutting/grinding the stereo cage. I used two pieces of the same door trim to run on the top of the radio cage, but I cut them long enough to extend approx 1" (about 2.5" total length if I recall) under the inner fairing as well. My thinking was that would help to evenly distribute whatever wind/vibration forces were causing the downward force and the cuts.
Filled the cuts w/JB Weld and sanded smooth.
Side note, but related: Last time I was in the fairing I had a couple of stripped screw anchors. I filled those with JB Weld and redrilled. NUTHER NOTE: recommend a mechancal drill bit stop set to the depth of each screw if different lengths (don't ask)... Anyway, that fix is holding up very well.
Determined the worst rattle was my headlight assembly. Not sure if adjustment screws just backed out over the years, or if the green clips wore some. Just gave all three adjustment screws an equal number of turns with a 1/4" socket and bingo snug as can be.
After all these years... Thanks to all for the remove headlight assy to hang the outer shell tip. That was just too freakin easy.
Part of my stereo upgrade was to I add the J&M accoustic mats that adhere to the inside of the outer shell.
All back together and am extremely happy with the outcome; no rattles, tight fit all around, trim looks great and with the accoustic mat when you knock on the fairing it sounds like a piece of solid material, not a hollow piece-o-sheet plastic.
Stereo upgrade: Biketronics complete FLTR kit upgraded w/DSX-60M and 6.5 Hertz speakers.
Had to purchase new speaker grills since I was replacing the J&Ms with tweeters integrated in the grill. Did not want to pay for OEM cloth that fade in a year, so went the Hawg Wired steel mesh grills which look great.
Rockin' and ridin"
Thanks again to all for the info.
I went with the Autozone door trim suggested by a poster in this thread, I bought two 27" packs at 4.99 ea. While cleaning the snot off the inner I let the trim sit in the sun. They went on flawlessly and look great. Reason I bought two packs is each side is approx 25.5" leaving only two 1.5" peices. I also replaced the top piece under the windshield. I did try running the entire length of the top and down to meet the side trims, but that made the outer shell fit too tight and I was concerned it would have caused too much stress on the fairing screws/plastic anchors. So I just replaced the OEM length.
I had the two cuts on the inside of the fairing. Only one of them was about halfway through so I didn't want to take the chance of added vibration by cutting/grinding the stereo cage. I used two pieces of the same door trim to run on the top of the radio cage, but I cut them long enough to extend approx 1" (about 2.5" total length if I recall) under the inner fairing as well. My thinking was that would help to evenly distribute whatever wind/vibration forces were causing the downward force and the cuts.
Filled the cuts w/JB Weld and sanded smooth.
Side note, but related: Last time I was in the fairing I had a couple of stripped screw anchors. I filled those with JB Weld and redrilled. NUTHER NOTE: recommend a mechancal drill bit stop set to the depth of each screw if different lengths (don't ask)... Anyway, that fix is holding up very well.
Determined the worst rattle was my headlight assembly. Not sure if adjustment screws just backed out over the years, or if the green clips wore some. Just gave all three adjustment screws an equal number of turns with a 1/4" socket and bingo snug as can be.
After all these years... Thanks to all for the remove headlight assy to hang the outer shell tip. That was just too freakin easy.
Part of my stereo upgrade was to I add the J&M accoustic mats that adhere to the inside of the outer shell.
All back together and am extremely happy with the outcome; no rattles, tight fit all around, trim looks great and with the accoustic mat when you knock on the fairing it sounds like a piece of solid material, not a hollow piece-o-sheet plastic.
Stereo upgrade: Biketronics complete FLTR kit upgraded w/DSX-60M and 6.5 Hertz speakers.
Had to purchase new speaker grills since I was replacing the J&Ms with tweeters integrated in the grill. Did not want to pay for OEM cloth that fade in a year, so went the Hawg Wired steel mesh grills which look great.
Rockin' and ridin"
Thanks again to all for the info.
Now so I can be of help to you, my Sony DSX-MS60 has basically stopped working because the flip down faceplate interface pins and door secure have already worn to a point that the no longer maintain the needed contact. I went looking for a new head unit figuring that I will pull this and send it to Sony for repair the install it in one of my cars. In that search I stumbled on to Crutchfield's website and found customer inputs on the DSX-MS60 from several Harley owners all expressing the exact same problem. All of them like me loved the unit with the sound and the convenience of the iPod shuttle feature but the reliability issue of the flip down killed the unit. It will maniface inself first as the display blinking, then lack of feature control, then no function at all. BTW, this seems to be the same for ALL headunits (Marine or not) with flip down faceplates in motorcycle installations.
The next issue I have already experienced is with the installation of the larger speakers with 6.5 Hertz speakers (larger/heavier magnets too) has broken the mounting ring and two of the screw pin posts off the faring. I just this week re-epoxed them back in place and re-glued the ring together. I hope this fix holds.
Bob
#193
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lord Albany
Touring Models
0
05-30-2008 09:41 PM