http://www.skullhillsteel.com/motorcycle_loader

This also has a stand that will support the ramp in a level positionFor oil changes, regular service, repairs, whatever. You get the bike loaded, level the ramp with the stand and back the bike (all push button) onto the ramp.

 

It's a hard call to make. The power model is surely the safest way to load the bike. But to use it a half a dozen times per year it's a lot of money. The other side is if I drop the bike trying to load it $2000 dollars will be nothing compared to the damage thats done.

 

I use the ramp below. It cost me 300.00, but it comes apart into three pieces for easy storage, and it's plenty wide to safely unload once you reach your destination. I got the 10' model so I don't have to worry about dragging when going over the lip. As far as I'm concerned, it's three hundred well spent. I use it to load my garden tractor, snowblower all kinds of stuff. One of the best purchases I've ever made.

 

I leave the tailgate on, I don't use a chock, but I do tie tight to the front to each corner of the box in front, Compress the suspension quite a bit while sinching it down, in gear and gas off. I leave it on the stand thinking that the bike is stable on the stand. I also pull one from the swingarm down to the hitch around the tail gate. Never had any problems and have gone 1000's of miles with it that way (Wisconsin to Maine last year, Wisconsin to Sturgis the year before and Wisconsin to North Carolina this year)

The biggest problem is finding short enough tie downs. I always have to buy the 12' because the 6's have too long of a lead.

 

Thanks Guys.

 

I remember back in 82. I use to load and un-load my Suzuki GS750E using a 6" wide I-beam. Back then I had ***** of steel......no on the other hand I had no common sense.

 

Read my story first. I got my ramps off e-bay for about $400 delivered.