Ok cool as I got the three tank bolts out. Just needed to know if I should take tank completely off so good info there as tank is full and a ton of wires I did not want to deal with. Did not check for goo yet, but would bad cam position sensor cause the plug not to spark? I understand about how it would cause the starter not to catch. Back at it tomorrow. Thanks.

 

After being caught in a major rain storm (all day) I lost power in one cylinder
and then was on the side of the road. Trouble shot it to the Computer or cam
position sensor. Checked for the computer, new and used. Did not want ot go
there, price prohibited for a 97 FLHRI. So I went cheap and purchased the cam
position sensor for like a $120. (maybe) NO such luck,,,,,water had inpreginated
the computer thru the Power Commander plug. Broke into the computer,
and put it in the oven and did not get the oven over say 120 or so deg.
Did that three or four cycles in say 12 hr. .
Sealed it back and fired her up, no problem for the last 2 yrs. With starting
anyway. I do have a good used cam position cheap too.........Tenn.Vol.

 

The cam position sensor would normally give a code if bad ..code #56 plus check engine light. (randomly)
Also when pressing the start button, the motor would have a difficult time starting(catching)...the starter would spin and turn engine over BUT engine would not catch(start)..sometimes pressing the start button for a milisecond first and then hit start regularly would make it easier to start....when the cam position sensor starts going bad it is like the motor does not know its place in drive cycle...
old school =out of timing
* and like mentioned above and before- the computer getting wet and then some corrosion is an issue sometimes...especially if some had a power commander before and removed IT along with the protective boot or IF computer gets wet from high pressure washers or bike sleeps outdoors in rainy salty conditions or some one has added stuff that funnels water towards it ...

 

if needed ..
this link might help with ECU location..most times letting it sit would dry it out..clean contacts.
http://www.powercommander.com/downlo...eng801-111.pdf

 

EUREKA! Finally quit raining around here so back out to the garage and guess what? Discolored trail of fluid under the timing cone! Rounded corner triangle tab with a wire going in which I am guessing with the help/advice from all is the cam position sensor maybe? OK, so it is shot. This is getting kind of exciting!

 

this link may help
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...mer-cover.html

 

1-The trick for me was the tiny cut piece of allen wrench.
2-That tiny piece of allen wrench allowed removal/loosening of the two(?) allen bolts that hold the triangle metal piece that holds the black wire...NO need to remove mufflers or pipes.
3-very small amount of tools required to access ..cut allen, small wrench to grab allen, drill for rivets, philips screw driver or strong philips bit for socket to remove 2 screws under circle, larger flat head screwdriver to remove the two posts that hold cam plate.
small towel and WD #40 to remove melted goo(pain)
*you can see connector exit bottom of cone and head to rear of bike just before swing arm..held on/slips on to a little pimple on frame.

 

from there is is rather simple...just need to mark locations/placement of wires..want male and female sides to match....there are only 3 wires ..the orange wedge holds the place...just make 100% sure you match same colors on male to female side...\
Requires no special tools, no special wrenches, no soldiering....
unfortunately i do not know how to test the entire plate system..I do know that melting is bad and that the tilt or vehicle attitude sensor is inside the plastic part of plate..
The tilt/attitude sensor in cam plate(melted part) cuts out spark and hence shuts motor if bike falls on its side...supposedly you could test off the bike for continuity by picking the correct two wires and tilting plate back and forth...
but again melting is bad..
need more info. let us know.

 

Would a bad cam sensor prevent spark at the plug? I took the multimeter and hit the coil with it. I hit each of the terminals where the clip goes in at and got no reading at all. I do know that there is continuity between the front and rear where the plug wires go. So do I just touch the outside of colored coil wire with M to get a reading? I am just trying to figure out if my coil is bad too. I want to get all this done at the same time. Side question is how hard is it to take fairing off to do a handlebar change? Thanks.

 

for handle bars:
your best bet for repairs is a harley service manual and this forum.
the service manual for your bike.. i think is part number PN 99483-98 ebay or similar should be about $50..dealer about $60. the parts manual is excellent about $40 ( ??? PN 99456-98A) the A is a newer version..you will have the part numbers and better pictures of actual parts and you will save your money when you order parts that are over $100..many places on internet (HD dealers) give 20% off and no tax.
If you need to save money just get the service book for now.
Bike bandit has diagrams bu no real part numbers.