No worries - I really should have read your first post more carefully. Each to their own after all. For me - it's kinda cool to be able to say I've done some of my own work - and know what the inside of the engine looks like but I have to admit I've had a LOT of help. I'm going to do my own cams on my new 2010 Ultra Limited (if/when) it ever shows up!! (Seems like every area dealer has the bike I actually bought from the dealer I'm working with which they said they would have for me over a week ago . . . Supposedly mine now ships 11/02.)

As far as the pushrods are concerned - I've never had to worry about the ones in my Fatboy because they're the stock rods. I realize that the easier way to do the job is to cut the stock ones out and replace with adjustables but getting them set right and then worrying about them loosening up - it's just not for me. Not to mention if you look at the things - imagine that extra mass riding up and down . . . I know a lot of people out there use them to good effect - I guess it's just me and my engineering background. I like to keep things as simple as possible. Less to go wrong.

 

A few comments here, the first being that there hasn't been enough cajoling on this thread to DIY. It is not a terribly complex job on a TC96 and in addition to normal tools requires only an inner-bearing puller/installer if you want to replace them. I considered it highly advisable and bought the tool, replacing the INA stock bearings with Torrington (Timkin) B168's at a cost of $15 for both. The tool was ~$90 but I have heard the seller now rents them, which would be the preferable option if available. Read my cam-change write-up here for more.

I re-used my stock pushrods and that added probably 2-3 hours to the total job. I have no plans of going into the cam chest again on this bike so this seemed like the right course of action, and if I had to do it again I would hold my nose and just do it the same way. It isn't rocket science but is tedious and requires patience, of which I have little. Adjustables are easier but you must buy them (~$150). I do believe the stockers are stronger and they will obviously not become out of adjustment. I've also never heard of metal residue falling on the tops of the lifters when cutting, but if this is a concern just seal the pushrod below the cut with masking tape or whatever.

My dealer quoted me 6 hrs. ($450 plus parts) using adjustables, and at the time I thought that was too high. After doing the job without adjustables and taking a full day and part of another I no longer think this is exorbitant. But for $200-300 for parts (including the cams) you can DIY and feel good about the learning experience when finished.

 

Yeh - but the thread starter specifically stated he didn't want to DIY and that he did want to know what a reasonable number of hours would be from a dealer to do the job. Seems fair to me. As you can probably tell from posts here I plan to DIY. Come to think of it - anyone here living within 100 miles of me got the tool? I'll certainly rent!

 

thanks for asking for us.

 

My HD charged 5 hours of labor to change the cams, new lifters and do an oil change. Re-used the existing rods. After reading the posts for those that have DIY'd I think 5 hours if very reasonable.