The problem is that any cam's change in duration will affect the way the MAP sensor interprets things, and in most cases there will be a big difference in the AFR map after changing cams, particularly for the cruise range. I was warned about this by Jamie at Fuel Moto, but when I made my cam swap I had Auto-Tune installed, and that took away the worry. Looking at the map before and after shows quite a bit of difference, as was predicted.

 

I didn't do a dyno run either before or after the cam swap, but do have a dyno chart from Fuel Moto for an '07 RK with the exact hardware and map setup I had with the stock cams. Based on that I would have to say that relying solely on my butt dyno the TQ increase was perhaps 6-8 while HP was maybe 4. Essentially the TQ curve felt like it moved straight up and none to the right, which is exactly what I wanted.

If Jamie's chart was accurate, which I don't doubt that it is, I would put TQ around the upper 90's, maybe as high as 100, and HP at perhaps 82. This isn't scientific, but just a guess. With the stock setup it was 93TQ/78HP on FM's chart. Attached is a composite chart for a stock TC96 w/FM Power Package and another with 255's and RH TD's. The TD's will hurt the low-end and it shows in this comparison. I think if that bike with 255's had been equipped with Jackpot mufflers and stock head pipes the TQ would be at least equal to that of the stock setup below 2300rpms and better from 2300 on up. BTW smoothing on the lower curves was 5 and I inserted them in Photoshop.

 

The question is where is this TQ figure of 99 realized? If it is at 4000 RPM and your TQ is lower than stock at 2500 you may be getting less performance where you ride. If you don't mind downshifting once or twice to pass a truck most any cam upgrade will serve well, perhaps better than the 255's in a stock motor. Where the 255's shine is that they provide a meaningful power increase where I ride (2000-4000 RPM), which may not be right for the next guy who wants the power between 3k and 5k, for example.

See my write-up, which doesn't go into step-by-step detail because that is found in the service manual. It's really not difficult if you follow the manual and take your time. The hardest part is removing the exhaust system and the rocker components, but you won't need to do the latter if you install time-saver adjustable pushrods.

 

TD's will be counter-productive, as they will reduce low-end TQ, and increasing TQ is why you are supposedly installing the 255's in the first place. The only issue with you is to find a FP map that will be right for your combo, and I'm not sure the best way to go about that. You don't need PCV (with or without AT) or SEST to make the 255's work, although both would provide more flexibility in tuning.

I don't think so, but I'm not knowledgeable about the scope of the FP. I would call Jamie at Fuel Moto and quiz him about it, as they sell most every tuner except SEST, which is a Harley product. If they have a map for your exact setup, which I think is doubtful, you would be set by just spending $300 on a PCV. AT would definitely do it for you, but at $300 more may not be in your budget.

My understanding about SEST is that there are few canned maps available, and mostly (all?) for HD products like SE mufflers. I doubt if your dealer will be able to get you an accurate map for your exact setup unless he's dyno-tuned a bike exactly like yours. You do need to hash this out, though, as the map you're using now will undoubtedly not be optimal once the cams are installed.

 

I spent $285, but with some creative cost-cutting I think you could do the job for as little as $200. What makes this cam choice attractive is the ability to find these cams as CVO pulls and new in Stage II kits on Ebay for $100-150. I bought mine used but perfect from a forum member for $110 shipped.

I bought the HD cam install kit, but if I had to do it over again I would buy only the parts needed, as there is much waste buying the kit since it covers Evos on up and contains seven bearings and numerous gaskets and o-rings you won't use. I think this list covers the parts needed:

1. Nosecone gasket (1)

2. Pushrod-tube o-rings (8) -- probably included with tubes in adjustable pushrod kits.

3. O-rings for cam plate (3, IIRC).

4. Gaskets for rocker covers, rocker plates, and breather plates, but only if you re-use the stock pushrods. Add adjustable pushrods to the list if you want to go that route instead. That'll set you back ~$150 but will save 2-3 hours of fooling with the rocker boxes.

5. Inner-bearing puller/installer tool (buy or rent from the link provided in my write-up).

6. Torrington (Timkin) B168 inner bearings (2).

7. Service manual for your bike.

What am I leaving out? Read every step and have it almost memorized, then decide if you can and want to do it. The hardest part of the job for me was removing and reinstalling the exhaust system and the rocker components, the latter not necessary if you install adjustable pushrods.

 

I have pulled my exhaust many times as I have been trying all kinds of exhaust. I can do it with my eyes closed.
So, I dont have to pull the rocker covers or anything off the top of the engine if I use adjustable pushrods?

 

Nope, just need this specialized pushrod removal tool.

 

Why not do a dyno run to see where you are? Our local dealer is giving free dyno runs without tuning. They do this to consult with you and sell you some parts, service and dyno time, which no one has to do. He also told me it was about $40 to do the same thing normally. Even $40 isn't much to see exactly where you are.

 

BTW... which fuelpak map did you use for this setup?

 

SE 255 cams , K&N a/f , D&D Fat-Cat , and PCIII! Going to be switching fuel management systems shortly!