Rear Lowering Blocks-Junk Or Not?
#11
10-11-2009, 05:35 PM
I tried a lowering kit thinking I was going to save money like you and after about 50 miles I took it off and did it the right way (shorter Progressive air shocks).
With the kit I had to keep the shocks completely aired up and the tire would still hit the top of the fender at times.
I also only weigh 190 and ride 1 up.
With the kit I had to keep the shocks completely aired up and the tire would still hit the top of the fender at times.
I also only weigh 190 and ride 1 up.
#12
10-12-2009, 07:36 AM
#13
10-12-2009, 08:00 AM
I tried a lowering kit thinking I was going to save money like you and after about 50 miles I took it off and did it the right way (shorter Progressive air shocks).
With the kit I had to keep the shocks completely aired up and the tire would still hit the top of the fender at times.
I also only weigh 190 and ride 1 up.
With the kit I had to keep the shocks completely aired up and the tire would still hit the top of the fender at times.
I also only weigh 190 and ride 1 up.
#14
10-12-2009, 09:15 AM
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#15
10-12-2009, 09:51 AM
Tourer
Tried the lowering blocks on my RKC. I go 190, wife 130 and the only way to keep from bottoming out was to ride so stiff we couldn't enjoy a full day ride on the bike. (especially with a loaded t-bag). The standard shocks are designed to have a certain amount of travel and in order for them to work correctly you can't drop the mount and expect they won't rub. If you put more air in you sacrifice the ride to avoid bottoming out.
I put a set of Progressive 440 11.5" on and couldn't be happier. The bike rides better than the stock shocks with the bracket and can't bottom out.
I put a set of Progressive 440 11.5" on and couldn't be happier. The bike rides better than the stock shocks with the bracket and can't bottom out.
#16
10-12-2009, 10:51 AM
I have blocks on my '08 Ultra, no issues. The dealer included them when I bought the bike.
As far as scraping boards and some of the other issues mentioned it doesn't matter if you use blocks or shorter shocks, the height difference is the same.
Not all manufacturers are the same so I wouldn't be surprised to find some blocks of questionable quality (same for shocks).
As far as scraping boards and some of the other issues mentioned it doesn't matter if you use blocks or shorter shocks, the height difference is the same.
Not all manufacturers are the same so I wouldn't be surprised to find some blocks of questionable quality (same for shocks).
#17
10-12-2009, 11:01 AM
Tourer
My $.02 is that the HD profile lowering shocks is the way to go without spending a ton on other high end brands. There are always plenty for sale on e-bay or here in the forum in the 125.00 - 175.00 range. And a big thing for me is that they are a genuine HD part and I figure they would not make them available if they weren't a safe product to install on your touring bike. Those lowering brackest are indeed cheap but changing the shock angle to accomplish this is risky in my opinion.
#18
10-12-2009, 06:08 PM
lowering blocks
I know there are many post on the lowering blocks versus the lowering shocks, I would just like a few more opinoins from members currently running the lowering blocks on their 09's and up touring models, specifically a Road Kind standard. I need about 3/4 to 1 inch to be totally flat footed. Already did a seat mod which really helped, and I have seen many (KITS) on e-bay fairly "cheap". Just need to know are these cheap kits just that = junk, or are they really worth putting on a 18000 dollar bike. I know many are running the lowered shocks 279.oo a pair, but was just trying to save some coin for other parts. I know this is a long thread but I am really close to getting one or the other and just need some help easeing my mind on making the right decision, hey thats why we are here to help each other out right? Thanks
