Question for high hp tourers...
#21
10-08-2009, 10:04 AM
You are f'ing up, right outa the gate, by focusing strictly on HP.
What will make your Bagger MOVE is BIG TORQUE. In addition to that, it needs to have good ~ great "rideability". In many cases, motors that look great on paper (read: big number dyno sheet, real or fake) have HORRIBLE rideability.
In the end, you are not gonna be riding the bike at 100% throttle (WFO / redline) very often ~ which is where that "peak" HP number occurs. I'm gonna bet you spend 90+ % of your riding time at or below 35~40% throttle.
Do yourself a favor (save $$) and focus on what actually matters, which is torque in the part of the RPM range where you spend the majority of you time.
Do not confuse to Torque vs. HP with slow vs fast! On your HeavyAzz Bagger, torque will get it moving and accelerating from the bottom to top....
I would also dispute the dealers "claim" that he can build you a S/E 103 that will make 130HP. Sorry.... not gonna happen, **BUT** if it did, I can all but guaranty you that it would be a turd for that other 90% of your riding experience.
FWIW.... My 120 only makes right at 120 HP, but what matters is the fact that it makes torque in the range of 150 AND it's VERY "rideable". Crisp, quick, fast in all conditions.
Now for the answer to your question... The cruise control works just fine!
Do your homework BEFORE you make that decision. If not, you will be saving $$ again to "do it right" on Round II.
What will make your Bagger MOVE is BIG TORQUE. In addition to that, it needs to have good ~ great "rideability". In many cases, motors that look great on paper (read: big number dyno sheet, real or fake) have HORRIBLE rideability.
In the end, you are not gonna be riding the bike at 100% throttle (WFO / redline) very often ~ which is where that "peak" HP number occurs. I'm gonna bet you spend 90+ % of your riding time at or below 35~40% throttle.
Do yourself a favor (save $$) and focus on what actually matters, which is torque in the part of the RPM range where you spend the majority of you time.
Do not confuse to Torque vs. HP with slow vs fast! On your HeavyAzz Bagger, torque will get it moving and accelerating from the bottom to top....
I would also dispute the dealers "claim" that he can build you a S/E 103 that will make 130HP. Sorry.... not gonna happen, **BUT** if it did, I can all but guaranty you that it would be a turd for that other 90% of your riding experience.
FWIW.... My 120 only makes right at 120 HP, but what matters is the fact that it makes torque in the range of 150 AND it's VERY "rideable". Crisp, quick, fast in all conditions.
Now for the answer to your question... The cruise control works just fine!
Do your homework BEFORE you make that decision. If not, you will be saving $$ again to "do it right" on Round II.
I swapped out the turbo for a smaller one, and ended up with 501hp and 943 lbs of torque. The difference was that the new turbo spooled WAY earlier, like 1000 rpm earlier, and the torque curve was almost flat. Way more fun to drive as well.
I mentioned hp 'cuz that's what everyone seems to refer to. But, rest assured, I'm going with cams that are going to make torque.
The Screamin' Eagle Stage IV 103 looks to be a good deal. Jugs, pistons, 110+ heads, 58mm throttle body, Super tuner, clutch spring, gaskets and 260 cams for $2400. What do you guys think? And oh yeah, I'll ditch the 260's.
Last edited by JCleary; 10-08-2009 at 10:07 AM.
#22
10-08-2009, 10:52 AM
#23
10-08-2009, 12:03 PM
I priced out head work, seems like a good set of worked heads are $1100 or so. Add to that cams, pistons, jugs, adjustable push rods, tuner etc., and you're in the same price range or more than the SE Stage IV setup.
Just asking, 'cuz I don't know any better...
#24
10-08-2009, 12:10 PM
Road Captain
No it's an 05' 95" Dyna. I think it's carbuerated also. If it EFI it's got bigger injectors. Guess I should look a little closer, but I know the numbers are true cause bikes legendary in the valley!
#26
10-08-2009, 12:44 PM
Road Captain
#27
10-08-2009, 09:16 PM
Road Warrior
What pipes??
If it was me and I wanted a mild build I would go S&S - 106", gear drive cams, heads, but I am a bit myopic around S&S because I am so happy with my build.
There are lots of SE 103s around and people seem happy with them.
#28
10-08-2009, 10:08 PM
Is it a matter of price? Or quality? I just figured that 10.5 to 1 compression pistons, nice SE heads, and aftermarket cams would make for a nice build. $2k OTD for the parts including a race tuner seams like a pretty good deal to me.
I priced out head work, seems like a good set of worked heads are $1100 or so. Add to that cams, pistons, jugs, adjustable push rods, tuner etc., and you're in the same price range or more than the SE Stage IV setup.
Just asking, 'cuz I don't know any better...
I priced out head work, seems like a good set of worked heads are $1100 or so. Add to that cams, pistons, jugs, adjustable push rods, tuner etc., and you're in the same price range or more than the SE Stage IV setup.
Just asking, 'cuz I don't know any better...
Those SE Heads may look cool, but in talking to a lot of people in the know, they are overkill for all but very large displacement motors. Compression is another thing you need to consider. You need to consider the dynamic compression (how much cylinder pressure is the engine making) in addition to static compression (10.5:1). Dynamic compression is where the cam specs come in.
Re-read PhilM's post. There is excellent advice in there.
Zach
#29
10-09-2009, 05:37 AM
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