Critique my build sheet
#11
09-24-2009, 08:32 AM
#12
09-24-2009, 09:21 AM
Extreme HDF Member
The only applications I've seen with SE 255 cams have been stock compression with no head work. Consequently, I'd be very leary of running those cams at over 10:1 compression.
If you are considering BigBoyz head work, ask them what they think of that cam at your anticipated compression.
My personal experience riding with a buddy who has an '02 RK with BigBoyz head work would discourage me from going down that path. Our bikes are, for comparison purposes, identical (same HQ-0034 cams, Rinehart TD's, SE a/c) except his is a 95" with that head work while mine is a bone stock 88. While his dyno numbers are significantly higher than mine (92/99 versus 80/90), his bike is only slightly stronger than mine. IMO not worth the $1800 or so he spent on the build.
Frankly, I think you would be better served with a cam swap and good tune. The cams alone would noticeably change the bike's performance, and you'd have many $$$ in your pocket by foregoing the cylinder work, pistons, head work, etc. Save those $$$ and add to them by foregoing the many $100 items we buy here and there, and you'd have the $$$ for an HQ or other truly high performance/high reliability build you really want.
Just my $.02.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
If you are considering BigBoyz head work, ask them what they think of that cam at your anticipated compression.
My personal experience riding with a buddy who has an '02 RK with BigBoyz head work would discourage me from going down that path. Our bikes are, for comparison purposes, identical (same HQ-0034 cams, Rinehart TD's, SE a/c) except his is a 95" with that head work while mine is a bone stock 88. While his dyno numbers are significantly higher than mine (92/99 versus 80/90), his bike is only slightly stronger than mine. IMO not worth the $1800 or so he spent on the build.
Frankly, I think you would be better served with a cam swap and good tune. The cams alone would noticeably change the bike's performance, and you'd have many $$$ in your pocket by foregoing the cylinder work, pistons, head work, etc. Save those $$$ and add to them by foregoing the many $100 items we buy here and there, and you'd have the $$$ for an HQ or other truly high performance/high reliability build you really want.
Just my $.02.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
#13
09-24-2009, 09:34 AM
Thanks for ALL input. Very much appreciated.
I've come up against an obstacle that I need some feedback on if this build is to become a reality. I just got off the phone with Mike at Cometic and a .022" head gasket is not something they can offer. WTF??? This would be used in case the piston was down in the hole and cutting the bottom of the cylinder was taken off the table as an option.
The sizes he offered me were .018", .027", and .030. Now of course all this info is what I've found out BEFORE I've even dug into the motor, but just an FYI and a plea for more feedback.
I've come up against an obstacle that I need some feedback on if this build is to become a reality. I just got off the phone with Mike at Cometic and a .022" head gasket is not something they can offer. WTF??? This would be used in case the piston was down in the hole and cutting the bottom of the cylinder was taken off the table as an option.
The sizes he offered me were .018", .027", and .030. Now of course all this info is what I've found out BEFORE I've even dug into the motor, but just an FYI and a plea for more feedback.
#14
09-24-2009, 11:08 AM
i'd do the .30 and NOT fiddle with machining the bottom of the jug for 0 deck height....choose another cam...if you talk with Bean he'll make some recommends on the cams his heads like....rest is just a straight top end job and should work well once the cam/head issue is solved...IMO, i dont care for SE stuff
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