Don't use a handle bar harness... It sounded like a good idea but cost me a day in the shop while on vacation. Tie down where there are no potential electric connections.
I installed tie down points on the forks where the driving lights are mounted. They come from Kuryakyn. Perfect because they avoid handlebars and the straps easily clear lower fairings. All the pressure is on the suspension where it should be.
I installed tie down points on the forks where the driving lights are mounted. They come from Kuryakyn. Perfect because they avoid handlebars and the straps easily clear lower fairings. All the pressure is on the suspension where it should be.
I wanted to get those but on my SG the blinkers are apart of that bracket. i would have to move my blinkers somewhere else to install those hooks.
Im hoping someone like Kuryakyn will come out with some that have the hook and the mount for the blinker.
I use the frame, two front down tubes. Pulled forward and out. Front wheel in a chock. Strap the rear off from the passenger floorboard brackets to the floor. What could possibly be better?? Several thousand miles this way with no problems. Nearly turned the whole thing over this year when I dodged a bicycle seat in the road too violently. The bike never moved.
I found that the engine bars on the front; the bars that protect the bags (frame mounted; not horizontal bars; and one on the tire.... kept me in good stead no matter the terrain.
I wouldn't mount on the engine guards. I began to do that once and noticed that the guards were starting to bend a bit. Luckily no damage done, but will never tie on to the guards.
I tie the front to the forks where the fender attaches and the rear to the pass floorboard bracket. I pull the rear suspension down but this method allows the front suspension to still work and absorb some of the road bumps.
I take my bike every Feb from Ohio's snow and ice to somewhere warm for a week and have trailered thousands of miles tied like that with zero problems.