Clutch adjustment question
#11
Best way I've ever done it is the Hippo method, loosen your cable adjuster all the way then adjust the screw at the basket till you feel your lever lifting off your handle bar
(have the lever pulled in) screw your clutch basket screw in and out a few times till you get a feel for it and then do it till you can feel it just starting to lift but not off the bar, screw it in an extra 1/2 to 3/4 turns and tighten the clutch bracket adjuster screw. Take a nickle out of you pocket and use that for the free play in the lever, adjust your cable adjusters till the nickle will just barely fit in the the slack when you lightly pull the clutch lever, tighten and your done. OH and most important then get a beer! LOL!
(have the lever pulled in) screw your clutch basket screw in and out a few times till you get a feel for it and then do it till you can feel it just starting to lift but not off the bar, screw it in an extra 1/2 to 3/4 turns and tighten the clutch bracket adjuster screw. Take a nickle out of you pocket and use that for the free play in the lever, adjust your cable adjusters till the nickle will just barely fit in the the slack when you lightly pull the clutch lever, tighten and your done. OH and most important then get a beer! LOL!
#12
Let's keep it simple....If you have proper play in cable, and not happy where clutch engages in relation to lever position, then you must adjust the clutch inside the derby cover first.
The farther you turn the clutch center screw out, the closer to the bars it will engage....So start with 1/2 turn out, then adjust cable for 1/8th free play and see where it falls.
The farther you turn the clutch center screw out, the closer to the bars it will engage....So start with 1/2 turn out, then adjust cable for 1/8th free play and see where it falls.
Last edited by oinker02; 08-15-2009 at 03:57 AM.
#13
r8rs4lf, believe it or not there is a reason that the 1/16" to 1/8" clearance is specified in the service manual, and even perhaps in your owners manual. that distance is to ensure that you have sufficient travel for the clutch plates to disengage, when the lever is pulled, and also when it is released the clutch pack will fully engage. honest man, it's not a random number that some designer came up with. if the plates did not disengage when the lever is pulled all the way, you'd not be able to get the transmission into gear. at the lever released position, you would likely cause clutch pack to fry itself. much like riding the clutch on a pickup truck. same principle. i hope this helped. now i'm confused. that distance is the gap between the lever and the clutch pivot housing. another side note. when you adjust your cable, you're doing exactly that, adjusting your cable and that's all. the actual clutch adjustment is done behind the derby cover. with your bike being an 09 it's unlikely that you need to adjust the clutch. adjusting the cable will take up the slop you're feeling now.
#14
Let's keep it simple....If you have proper play in cable, and not happy where clutch engages in relation to lever position, then you must adjust the clutch inside the derby cover first.
The farther you turn the clutch center screw out, the closer to the bars it will engage....So start with 1/2 turn out, then adjust cable for 1/8th free play and see where it falls.
The farther you turn the clutch center screw out, the closer to the bars it will engage....So start with 1/2 turn out, then adjust cable for 1/8th free play and see where it falls.
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